South East Queensland

Kayak Fishing

Installing a Sounder

by Gavin C.

Materials and Tools
1 metre of 50mm velcro (I bought 2 metres just in case)
1 x 3amp in-line fuse
cable wrap (spiral)
cable shrink wrap
length of red and black 5amp wire
soldering wire & soldering iron
power cable connections
"Gel Bond" or similar glue
"Stanley" knife
some foam rubber (approx 25 - 30 mm thick)
sandpaper

 

The Sounder

The sounder I purchased is a Lowrance X49 from Springwood Marine.

Lowrance X49 Sounder

My main concern was trying to minimise -- or avoid all together -- drilling holes in the hull, or permanently gluing the transducer to the hull. I achieved this through using good old velcro. Read on!

The Transducer

The transducer is secured inside the hull directly below the compass mount and accessible through the small middle hatch.

Transducer mounting point

I have cut a piece of foam rubber to fit the transducer so it will sit snug on the hull and is also able to be removed.

Transducer in piece of foam

Inside the hull I glued (using Gel Bond purchased from Coles) the hook half of the velcro to the bottom. I have glued it such that the transducer can sit in the middle. Before gluing I roughed the surface with some sandpaper.

Velcro glued to inside bottom of kayak
Tip: Smear vaseline or marine grease on the bottom of the transducer so that it contacts the hull without any air pockets. - Ed.

Then it's a simple case of velcroing the piece of foam rubber containing transducer to the hull and ensuring it's reasonably level and flat.

Tranducer fitted

 

The Display Unit

The display unit was a similar issue. I glued down two long strips of the hook velcro across the compass mount and a second smaller piece on the hatch cover and just behind the seat for the cables to be secured.

Velcro for sounder display unit

The display unit is secured (not 100% firmly but enough for kayaking) to the hull.

Sounder display unit fitted

 

The Cables

The next issue was what to do with the cables. Once again I was not happy about drilling more holes into my hull. To take it through the hull would mean a 19mm hole to allow for the plugs. That's a big hole to plug. I toyed with taking them through the hatch cover but wasn't happy about that either. I realised I had a rod holder set into the hull which I did not use often. This was my answer.

Cables running through rear rod holder

I cut the lower part of the holder off which allowed the cables to go through easily. I cut another piece of foam rubber to fit into the rod holder, drill a hole in the middle and cut a slit in it to put the cables through.

Foam cable seal

Once this is inserted into the rod holder it compresses and acts as a plug. It may not be 100% water proof but it will keep most of the water out.

Cable seal in place

 

The Battery

The unit is powered by a recycled security system battery. I recharge it with a normal 12V battery charger.

12V 7Ah battery

For the battery I found an old bumbag and placed it inside, secured the power leads, zipped it up and secured it to the rear scupper tubes with the belt clip.

Battery in bumbag

 

Battery in place

 

and finally...

To finish it off, I cut a slot into the foam rubber seat so the cables are protected. The transducer can be secured and left inside the hull with the cables for transport to the water. From start to power up it took me 4min 20sec first run.

Cable runs under foam seat pad

and.........IT WORKS!

It works!