Eureka Models HUB Cars - Terminal Car Maker Lights Modification for DC.

 

Note: The Interior Lights ON/OFF Switch is operated from underneath the Car and is located under one of the “outer” wheels of one of the Bogies.

 

The HUB cars have been wired incorrectly by the factory such that when a train is moving forward the front marker lights are lit and the rear marker lights are off. Two Diodes on the Upper Circuit Board provide this directional control but only when the polarity of the Black and White wires is as per the Circuit Board design.

 

Explained below are 3 methods to correct the Marker Lights. 

 

Note: Reversing the Red and Black wires from the “Pick Up” Plates (Input), at the Switch, is not the same as reversing the Black and White wires (Output), at the Upper Circuit Board. The extra steps in Method 2 are required so the Interior Lights can operate after swapping the Black and Whites wire, around.

 

 

Removing the HUB Car bodies.

 

The HUB Car bodies have 4 small protrusions on each side that clip into the underframe. Holding the underframe, using your Index finger, gently prize the Body sides away from the underframe. You’ll hear a “click” as the body disengages from the underframe.

 

 

 

Method 1

 

Note: The Interior Lights will never illuminate using this method.

 

Apart from removal of the body, no further dismantling of the Coach is necessary.

 

1. Remove the black wire “Holders” from the “L” and “R” Tabs from the Circuit Board then remove wires. Note: Some wires have also been found to be soldered, after removing the Holders.

 

2. Swap around the Black and White wires with:

 

     White to “L”

     Black to “R” as shown

 

3. Test for correct DC operation then fit Body.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Method 2

 

Similar to Method 1 above with some Circuit Board modification to provide the Interior Lights.

 

1. Remove the black wire “Holders” from the “L” and “R” Tabs from the Upper Circuit Board then remove wires. Note: Some wires have also been found to be soldered, after removing the Holders.

 

2. Swap around the Black and White wires on the Upper Circuit Board, with:

 

     White to “L”

     Black to “R” as shown

 

3. Using a Dremel or other motor tool with a Cut Off Disc etc, cut a “Gap” in the Circuit Board Copper Track, below the 8 Pin Socket as shown with the White paint.

 

4. Solder a “Link” (wire) between the:

 

     Lower R/H Tab of the Bridge Rectifier “BS1” and              

     The Anode of Diode “D1”,

 

as shown with the orange wire.

 

5. Test for correct DC operation then fit Body.

 

 

 

 

 

Method 3 – Wired as designed

 

This method requires the dismantling of the Coach but will provide the Interior Lights and correctly working Marker Lights as designed.

 

1. Remove 2 screws securing the Upper Circuit Board.

 

2. Move the Circuit Board sideways to enable access to the Seat Assembly.

 

3. Remove the 3 screws securing the Seat Assembly.

 

4. Tilt the Circuit Board/Seat Assembly 90 degrees as shown in the photo.

 

5. Support the Seat Assembly so as not to strain the 3 wires and to keep the Switch located onto the 2 spigots.

 

 

 

 

 

6. Swap around the Red and Black wires soldered to “R1” and “L1”, with the final wiring connection of:

 

        Red to “L1”

        Black to “R1” as shown.

 

7. Make sure the Red wire is tucked back under the R/H “Pick Up” Plate as shown.

 

8. Ensure the 2 “Pick Up” Plates and the Switch are positioned onto their respective spigots.

 

 

 

 

 

9. Fit the Seat Assembly onto the Coach underframe, making sure the Switch and the “Pick Up” Plates are still correctly located and the 3 “outside” wires pass up the Tube.

 

10. Secure the Seat Assembly - 3 countersunk screws.

 

11. Secure the Upper Circuit Board – 2 screws.

 

12. In case you have removed the Upper Circuit Board the wires are connected as follows:

 

      Red – “SW”

      Black – “L”

      White – “R”

      Marker Light Black – Outside trace to Diode “D2”.

      Marker Light Red – Copper Trace to “R5”.

 

Note: This is original (factory) wiring configuration. That is, Method 3 has no changes on the Upper Circuit Board, with only the change to the Lower Circuit Board.

 

13. Test for correct DC operation then fit Body.