CAPE TOWN

(February 1948 - August 1949)

 

 

The “Oranjefontein” arrived in Table Bay very early in the morning of the 17th February, 1948 and anchored off Robben Island awaiting daybreak. Of course I was up at the crack of dawn and watched the sun waking up Table Mountain, the magnificent background of the city of Cape Town.  What a sight for a Dutch boy who had never been out of Holland!

 

The main mountain, with a flat tableau hence the name Table, is 1500 meters high and flanked by two lower hills:  Devils Peak and Signal Hill (West).

 

The town stretches from the mountain to the port although in those days there was an open foreshore area of about 2 km.. This has now been built up, of course. We came alongside close to the main entrance/exit of the port. A small army of important looking officials of the Immigration and Customs department boarded but only after the ship was cleared by a man of the Port Health department, popularly know as “rat catcher” who had to give health clearance. His job was to collect some papers signed by the Captain and Doctor to say there was no black fever, cholera or other diseases on board. How would they know?

 

There was no welcoming committee from the Holland Africa Line but a boarding clerk said “hallo” and told us that the boss, Mr. Henstra, was expecting us at 2 PM in his office.

 

I was 19, my temporary colleague Aad de Goederen a few years older and we had no local friends or relations whatsoever. Our first priority was of course accommodation. Henstra and Co had done nothing.

 

Then after watching procedures on board and on the quay I bumped into a Dutch gentleman , named de Jong, meeting family. After telling him our predicament, de Jong said he knew a Mrs. Plantinga who was looking for boarders as she had recently lost her husband. That is, to earn some money, not playmates.

 

And so Aad and I got a large room in a nice old Cape House at 28, Higgo Road, Kloofnek, in the arch between Table Mountain and Signal Hill. Only a  20 minutes ride by trolley bus from Exchange Place in the centre of town where the office was.

 

Mrs. Plantinga was actually German. She had two adopted sons of 5 and 6. Elmer and Wilmur. An old African woman, Emma, did the cooking and general cleaning. Board and lodging was £ 10 per month, one third of our stipend. (You could not really call it a salary) We shared a large room with our own bath/toilet. Excellent !

 

I remember when Karel de Vries came out with wife and very young children. As many readers of T.N.T will know, he later on went to Amsterdam in a top-job. But in 1948 Henstra & Co could not be bothered and Karel and family actually lived in a garage of a private house for the first period of their stay in Cape Town!

 

The Holland Africa Line Agency, Cape Town, looked after a number of shipping lines: the Holland Africa Line, Royal Interocean Lines (Far East-South America), Nedlloyd Lines, NLL, a joint venture of the Rotterdam Lloyd and Nederland Line, plying between the United States West coast and South and East Africa/Red Sea ports, as well as the odd Dutch tramp or tanker.

 

HAL and RIL operated freighters but each company also had three passengers ship which were in great demand. Boissevain, Ruys and Tegelberg  who traded between the Far East and South America, three –Fontein vessels to and from Europe as well as coastwise trips in the Cape Town – Beira range.

 

In between, smaller R.I.L./KPM passengers ships and freighters with accommodation for 12 passengers also called and there were Dutch Government Emigrant ships which brought 800 settlers each call returning with about 400 passengers. They were converted (fast) Victory ships: Waterman, Grote Beer and Zuiderkruis.

 

RIL ships also carried Japanese emigrants going to South America. In 1948 the Japanese economy wasn’t booming! (Think of ex-Peruvian President Fujimori, described in Wikipedia as the son of poor Japanese immigrant peasants.)

 

South Africans were all keen to go to Europe or cruise to South America and the passage counter was always full of customers. That meant paper work and correspondence had to be done after office hours. Aad was not interested in getting stuck into the work because he was in transit to Beira and merely in Cape Town to wait for his Portuguese visa. So I spent many an evening in the office on my own with some other suckers of the freight department making lists and manifests. No overtime pay, of course!

 

Just for the records:

 

Staff in Cape Town in 1948/9:

 

Manager: S. H. Henstra and after a year, Dr. Ru van Marle

 

Asst. Manager: V. Meyer

Pass. Manager: J. de Nes (ex purser Klipfontein during war)

Passage assistants: Ietske Aikema & Yvonne Enslin

Bookkeeper: Bram van Strijp

Claims dept.: Buning

NLL: P. Meeth, delegated from S.M.N. Later became director H.W.A.L.

R.I.L: Salemink, ex K.N.L.M (Koninklijke Nederlandse Luchtmacht) in Indonesia.

 

Most of these people were permanent local staff but others were expatriate staff which could be transferred anywhere in Africa on short notice.

Expatriate staff were worked harder than the locals. The imported Dutch did not get paid any overtime. We were so busy that there was no chance to get local leave either.

 

As I explained earlier I was not particularly impressed by the boss Siebe Henstra. He took no notice of me and seemed to be unconcerned about the long hours I was making. It was therefore a great relief when Dr. Ru van Marle took over. I remember clearly that shortly thereafter, he walked into the office at 8 o’clock in the evening probably because he had forgotten his pipe.. Anyhow when he saw me sitting there typing letters, he came up to me, found out what I was doing and gave me some tips how to do the work quicker and more efficiently. He was interested in his staff and that remained so for the rest of his career including the time he was Managing Director in Amsterdam. Mrs van Marle was also a very pleasant lady, concerned about my welfare

 

During the odd free Sunday, Aad and I walked from our house to the top of Table Mountain and back, some quite steep and rough paths. Beautiful scenery and one way to stay fit.

 

As a priority for me after arrival, were some special request from my parents. First of all, my sister Sylvia, then 13 years old, urgently needed a new bathing costume. Swimming was her main hobby! So I went across from the office to Garlick’s, a well-known warehouse and bought her an American swimsuit make: Carolina. The best money could buy and she was very happy.

 

One forgets that just after the war many things were scarce. My youngest brother Tonny , then 6, had only one dream: a toy fire engine with bells and ladders. So that was No 2 on my list  and the two items were duly dispatched on one of our ships to the good people of the mailing room who arranged to telephone my parents so that Pa Jansen could collect them at “het Afrika Huis“, Spui, Amsterdam. My mother told me afterwards that Tonny went to sleep with the engine so tight in his arms that the ladders were imprinted in his cheeks the next morning.

 

Apart from walks up Table Mountain and some drives with Mrs Plantinga, during the first six months, there was little else to do but work, work and work. I did go with Mrs P to the Alliance Francaise one evening and met a very nice English couple (Roy and Frida Preedy, insurance agent) who invited me for dinner in their Sea Point flat on a few occasions.

 

Henstra arranged for me (told me ) to take part in a play or sketch as they say in Holland at an evening organised by the Netherlands Club which was a very popular watering place. (Too expensive for me). The daughter of the Dutch Consul General: Marijke Levelt was my partner and we did some Dutch Boerendans. . Nice girl and fun for me to partake in the concert/show. However I did not have the time or money to take her out and the daughter of the Dutch Consul-General was a bit above the standing of a mere passage clerk.

 

I then met another Dutch girl, Maud Visser, whose father was the boss of the Hollandse Aannemings Mij who were building the Duncan graving dock. She drove the family Buick at break- neck speed and took me all over the place in the magnificent scenery of the Cape.

 

During the second month in the Cape I acquired 1937 DKW 125 cc motorcycle. Had to learn the rules to get a driver’s license. Bit dangerous. Aad had lent me some money for the purchase and one Saturday afternoon he persuaded me to let him have a go. A natty dresser, our Aad, wearing a smart suit on all occasions except when he took a shower or bath, or went to the beach..

 

He stormed down the fairly steep Higgo road towards town. I expected him back in ten minutes or so but after an hour, still no sign of him. Then a bit later: there he was, pushing the bike and his smart trousers torn at the bottom. Apparently he had to stop at a traffic light when the engine stopped. He tried to kick-start it into life but it did not want to cooperate. In the process his foot slipped a couple of time from the starting lever and caught the bottom of his pants! He never borrowed the bike again!

 

Anyhow, it did not last long and shortly after Aad’s mishap with it, the clutch gave in and I did not have the money for repairs. Also because I had to pay Aad’s loan back because he was leaving for Beira! So that was the end of Das Kleine Wunder ! Pity because it was quite handy getting around the big town and surroundings.

 

So, Aad left. We were good mates but not real intimate friends because of the difference in our age and background. During the ensuing years we did meet at company meetings when we used to enjoy talking and laugh about our pleasant time in the Cape. Aad married a very nice Dutch girl but had a rough time when as Manager Port Elizabeth his eldest son was killed by roadside robbers. Aad died before his time as well but I believe his wife is still in P.E.

 

When Mr Plantinga moved house in October 1948 I came along at first. But after she got a boyfriend, there was no room for me in her new house in Rondebosch so I looked for another room

 

Very soon thereafter I got a large room with private facilities with an elderly lady, Mrs Villet, (80 or so) in Wijnberg about 20 km from the City. Good commuter train ‘tho. Her late husband had been a dominee in the Dutch Reformed Church and she proudly showed me her Staten Bijbel which was in High Dutch, not Afrikaans! She was a wonderful old lady and we got on very well. She had never had a son and I was the missing link albeit for a short while only.

 

When Jan van Riebeeck established a Dutch outpost in Cape Town in 1652, to grow fresh fruit and vegetables to prevent “scurvy” on board the VOC ships, he imported labour for the gardens and kitchens from Indonesia. As a result the “cuisine” in Cape Town has always remained a bit Indonesian (exciting) with plenty of rice and spices. Mrs Villet’s food was similar and very tasty indeed.

 

I bought my self a bicycle to go to the Wijnberg station. A dream from my young years was realised: Raleigh with trommelremmen (hub-brakes) and three speed archy murphy gears!

 

Mrs Villet had an old motorcar, Austin 7 - 1935 model and she allowed me to use it after I obtained a driver’s license. The bike was quicker! I mainly used it to drive her around. We got on very well and it was a sad day for both of us when I was unexpectedly transferred to Johannesburg in August,1949. But it was a promotion of sorts because I was going to be the chief passage clerk. The title actually did not exist just in case we would ask for improvements to our “stipend”!

 

P.S. Apartheid Some people asked me how it was to live in an “apartheid” country after the “freedom” of Holland.

 

Well, the fact of the matter is that when I landed in the Cape in February 1948, there was hardly any separation of the races in Cape Town. The majority of the “mixed-race” people were half Indonesian and the girls pretty good-looking. Most of the poorer Afrikaners had actually married these women and we all seemed to get along well. There was no segregation in cinemas, buses or trains or anywhere as far as I can remember.

 

Soon after I arrived there were general elections. 1948. I remember it well. I saw Jan Smuts at a political meeting in Muizenburg, a Cape Town suburb on the beach. He was the leader of the so-called United party which was liberal in their views. The opposition was the National Party of Dr Malan who won the elections. They were the people preaching “apartheid”. After they came into power I saw the trains being adorned with signs: “net vir blankes” etc etc. The buses and cinemas remained mixed for some time but the non-whites had to sit in the rear of the bus. I did not use buses by then having my bike and the efficient rail services.

 

So, for this young Dutchman Cape Town was not so different. In fact I shall always remember and have good memories of this beautiful city no doubt visited by many of the ex seafarers reading this.

 

Anton Jansen

Wyoming, July, 2009.