26 short stories by Joe
Slikboer
& Pictures of Joe’s
model of the Laurenskerk




s.s. "Laurenskerk"
On
the 7.12.1954, I signed on the Dutch Liberty Ship “Laurenskerk” as a mess boy.
My
job was cleaning cabins and making beds. Mess room and pantry was also my job
to keep clean. Further also my job was setting tables for meals and washing the
dishes after.
It
was a simple job. We start 6 am in the morning, to approximately 6 or 7 at
night. They were long hours, but it work was no difficult or hard.
I
was 17 year of age, but for me it was an eye opener. I was a quick learner, and
had no problems with my new environment. We left the Port of Rotterdam in the
afternoon that day. We dropped off the pilot at the Hook of Holland and set
course to Bremen in Germany.
It
was a cold winter that year, but the sea was modest. There was a gentle swell,
but that was just enough to make me sea sick. But soon I got over that. The
next day we picked up the pilot at the beginning of the river Weser to Bremen.
It is a long river, if I remember it is about 50 miles to Bremen. It takes
about 5 or 6 hours to the Port of Bremen. We stayed there for a few days
unloading and loading general cargo. The cargo we loading were for Pakistan and
India.
From
Bremen we set course for Hamburg, also in Germany. It is only a short move to
Hamburg approximately 12 hours. We picked up the pilot again and we steamed on
the river Elbe approximately 5 hours to Hamburg. It was a German tradition by
approaching the Port of Hamburg to play the National Anthem. Ships from every
country will hear their National Anthem. Port of Hamburg is large. The harbour
is on one side of the river, and the City across the other side of the river.
To go ashore, we had to take a ferry. It was possible to walk to the City of
Hamburg, but you had to go through a tunnel. And that was a very long way
around. Going on ferries was sometimes very hazardous, special after you were
enjoying a few glasses of German beer. It was fun to walk around and observe
what was going around you. The first thing what caught my eye how many
prostitutes were in Hamburg. A special street was designed for prostitutes in
Hamburg. The both ends of the street were closed off. Only people above the age
18 were allowed to enter the street. I was only 17, but I was a very
inquisitive young lad, and I could not help me self to have a good look. What I
saw was a massive place with red lights, and a lot of prostitutes stripped off
to their underwear.
I
was a youngster, so I had to obey the rules and regulations, and I had to
return to my ship at a reasonable time.
We
left the Port of Hamburg, sailed to the mouth of the River Elbe into the Kiel
Canal that runs through the top end of Germany near the Danish border. It is
only a short distance to the Port of Kiel, from Kiel through the Baltic Sea. It
was January, so it was ice cold weather. Two days later we arrived in Szczecin.
Szczecin is situated just over the border of the former East Germany. Czczecin
is also on a river, called Swine. Before reaching Szczecin, you pass through an
estuary, followed by a big lake. Then enter a small river before reaching the
city.
My
attention was to go ashore, and I was all dressed up, but I was recommended not
to do so. It was only 10 years after the War, and Poland was a communist nation
at that time. Life in Poland was at that time not so bright. It was not safe to
walk on the waterfront at night. I was only a lad, so no body would like to
take responsibility for my safety. So I decided to stay on board.
We
stayed a few days to unload iron ore from India, and a few days later we left
Szczecin. Returning to the Baltic Sea, through Kiel Canal and set course for
Antwerp in Belgium. We picked up the pilot at the River Schelde, a few days
later. We arrived in Antwerp a few hours later. The wharf was along the river
side, so it was easy to tie the ship along the quay.
First
thing I notice on the wharf, were the loading cranes. They were driven by water
pressure. They make a lot of noise when they working.
Shop
and bars were not far from the ship, just across the wharf. I when on shore,
had a few glasses of Belgium beer. I was not very impressed with it. It is not
a very nice beer. It really tasted like cow piss. We returned to Rotterdam to
load more general cargo. Then we set sail on 13.1.1995. to Pakistan and India.
Spent
a few days at home after a short voyage to Germany and Belgium. I was ready for
my first long voyage to Pakistan and India. We departed from the Port of
Rotterdam on 13.1.1995. It was a cold winter that year. We reached the Hook of
Holland after two hours on the New Waterway, dropped off the pilot. Soon we
were on the way through the English Channel. For the time of the year, the sea
was moderate until we reached the Atlantic Ocean. We set course south to Cape
Finistere on the north corner of Spain. But it was different story in the
Atlantic Ocean. Atlantic Ocean has the name of storming condition. With us was
no exception. The sea was very rough. And because it was my first trip on the
high seas, I was terrible sea sick. Your stomach keeps turning around, and you
can’t keep food in it. Work must go on, you have no choice then keep going. It
went on for a few days, but eventually we came through with no damage. We past
Cape Finistere and the weather cleared up, and we had very good weather along
the coast of Portugal. We past through the Strait of Gibraltar, and it was a
fantastic sight to see the Rock of Gibraltar. But I did not see monkeys on the
Rock.
We
sailed close enough to have a good look. Then we set course for Marsaille, a
port of Southern France. Marseille was not a big port. We stayed there not very
long. Soon we were on our way to Genova. Genova is a beautiful natural harbour,
situated on a hill. By night is it a wonderful sight, there are lights all
around. For the most sailors, Genova was the last of civilization. We stayed in
Genova a few days, for the most sailors was it party time. There were a few
drunken sailors, and unfortunately the parties became much for some sailors.
There were a few red faces, few black eyes. But the next day, when every body
were sober, the peace pipe were smoke, life was back to normal. Soon we left
Genova, we were underway to Port Said. The Mediterranean was very calm and the
sea was very bleu for most of the time. Then along the coast of Italy, we sail
through to Strait of Messina then along the coast of North Africa to Port Said.
We arrived there a week after we left Genova. For me it was a new world.
Something I only dreamed of when I was a little boy. But this was only the
beginning for my. I knew I had a lot more to learn. The environment we had to
live in was very limited. A ship on the ocean is equivalent a star in the sky.
We had a crew of about 40. We all had to give and take. We have to learn to be
tolerant. Being at sea for long periods of time, could bring some friction
among some crew members. That is we always try to avoid. Good moral on a ship
is a healthy life. Suez Canal was most interesting part of the voyage. We are
going through Suez Canal by convoy of approximately 20 or 25 ships. Suez Canal
in those days was very narrow. Halfway through the canal are the bitter lakes
(that we called it). Normally we drop the anchor in the lakes to let past the
convoy from the other side. Sailing through the Red Sea to Aden and then into
the Indian Ocean. The Indian Ocean could be very stormy from time to time.
Especial in the famous monsoon weather. We arrived in Karachi after being at
sea for two weeks. We began unload the ship some cargo, and on to Bombay,
Colombo and Madras.
From
Madras to the Port of Calcutta. At the arrival of the River Hooghly, we picked
up the pilot. Hooghly River is approximately 12 hours to Calcutta. Soon we
approach the river we could see the murky dirty water. The dirty water spread
miles into the open sea. It takes a long time to up river, because the current
is very strong coming down from inland. Once or twice in a year there is a
tidal wave occur. The ships along side the wharf rise from 2 to 10 metres high
in one hour. I think it has something to do with the moon stand. Hooghly River
water is very dirty and is very smelly. The people dumped every thing in it.
They bath their selves; clean their teeth in it, and so on. We found dead cows,
monkeys, dogs and cats floating in the river. It is a terrible sight. Water
rats are living in the river, and just about everything else. In the City of
Calcutta was it the same story. Dirty streets were every where you look. Cattle
wondering through the city freely. Even monkeys sitting every where. Beggars
are represented throughout the whole city. They sit and live at the same spot,
begging for money or food. Prostitution is also high on the list, girls from
the age of 12 to 40 of age. They live in high rise building around the city.
Throughout the city they built alcoves for the people to dispose their house
hold garbage. After, big trucks cart it away. Dogs and cats usually have their
meals. But all this was when I was in Calcutta in 1955. We stayed approximately
two weeks, and we preparing us for the return trip to Europe. Next ports were
Chittagong and Rangoon. We left Rangoon and back to the Indian coast for ports
of call. In Vishakhapatnam loading some iron ore for Italy. From
Vishakhapattnam by other ports to Bombay again. In the port of Bombay to my
surprise we took passengers. They were baby elephants. They were very amusing.
They were kept in cages, just big enough to stand and lay down. If I remember
we had four. Destination was Rotterdam.
They were well look after, well fed and kept clean. After a few weeks
they became what restless, being on the same spot all the time. They were about
two metres high, but very powerful. Fortunate everything went well. Go back to
the trip, across the Indian Ocean to the port of Aden for bunker and
provisions. Aden is situated in Yemen (then a British settlement). Aden is an
interesting place. We had no time to go on shore. But traders come along side
the ship throwing up lines for selling goods. Souvenirs and lot of other goods
like clothing. Again through the Red Sea to Suez Canal. It was very hot in the
Red Sea. The Red Sea is normally very calm. There are plenty dolphins around
the moving ships, swimming on the bow of the ship. Very playful creatures, they
are very entertaining.
Also
we saw sharks around the ship from to time. Not very friendly it all they are.
Flying
fish is an interesting creature. Fly out over the water for approximately 30 or
40 metres.
Through the Suez Canal and back to Genoa in Italy. In Genova was it the same repeat what happened earlier on the beginning of the voyage. Few beers and then a few brawls. But the next day everything was peaceful again. From Genova to Marsaille, and then underway to Rotterdam. Sea was very smooth, nothing much excitement did happened. The Atlantic Ocean was very kind to us. Soon we picked up the pilot in the Hook of Holland, few hours later we walk of the ship. I was very pride at me self, could not wait to see my mates, tell them my experience in India.
After
I returned of my long voyage from India, I stayed a few weeks at home. Staying
home with my Mother, who was not very impressed that I was being a seaman, was
not easy to live with. It was very difficult for me to obtain a written permission
for looking employment at sea from my Mother. She had the impression that it
would make me a bad person. Minors in Holland must have permission from parens
to look for employment at sea.
And
so, I left Rotterdam on 4.10.1955 with the Liberty ship “Lieve Vrouwekerk” to
the Persian Gulf. Before we signed up, we always must have a medical check up,
and that we immunized against small pox, cholera, yellow fever, and few more.
For the first couple weeks we always had a sore arm. But you get used to it
after a while.
When
working on deck, you also need to have good hearing and eye sight. So every
three years they have to be examined, and recorded in your seaman book (in
Dutch “Monsterboekje”). All you medical are recorded in your seamanbook. All
medical are very strict.
We
left Rotterdam in October, and the autumn weather was cool. But the Atlantic
Ocean was reasonable quit. Mediterranean Sea was very calm and very blue.
Like
the previous voyage, first to Masaille and Genova to pick up more cargo. Working
on deck was for me a new experience. There is a lot to learn. At sea we do
watch duty, that mean we work 4 hours during the day, and four at night. Plus
overtime during the day. Our ship was a Liberty Ship, built during the war. So
everything had to be done by hand. We had no automatic steering mechanism, so
it had to be done by hand. Every one does his turn, 1 hour and 20 minutes
steering the ship during the day and the same at night. It was not difficult,
but you must keep yours eyes all times on the compass. So that you steer
correct as possible and not writing your name. But I was a fast learner, and
soon I handled it well. But that was only at sea. Arriving at Ports was more
complicated. Steering a big ship in ports or rivers is not easy, that takes some
training. In most cases the Captain require only experienced sailors on the
wheel. And because I only started, I was not allowed to steer ships in harbours
or rivers.
In
harbour or river is not the Captain that gives orders, it is the pilot. And if
he see that you are not qualified, he say goodbye to you. Steering a ship in
harbours and rivers at night is sometimes very difficult and confusing. There
are many lights from other ships and from the land. Being a seaman and working
on deck, was not always picking roses. The sea could be very kind, but also
very cruel and disastrous. Many ships were lost in rough seas. It is
unbelievable the strength of those enormous waves that rolls on deck. From time
to time I had to run for my life. I have seen many incidents that ended up with
incredible injuries. In the past a lot of sailors lost their lives, by washed
over board. Often it’s happen with deck cargo start to move. We have to get out
re-secure the cargo. I have been very fortunate and very lucky at times. Anyway,
after we left Genova with a few hangovers of the wild nights we had, we were
underway to Port Said. Approximately six days sailing. Work after we left Italy
started in earnest, unloading equipment had to be looked at. All ropes and
cables had to be cleaned and greased, to prevent rusting causing from the sea
water. Loading blocks are taken apart and checked. All gear have to be in good
condition, when we arrived in the Persian gulf. I had to learn to splits ropes
and making knots. And all that takes times.
Apart
for working, there is little we can do on ships. If you are off duty, you
either sleep or you sit in the mess room drinking coffee or tea. Playing cards
was the only entertainment. Playing “Poker” was the most played card game.
“Klaverjassen”
(a Dutch card game) was also very popular. Alcohol was not freely available on
ships, two or three beers a day was the limit, to prevent drunkenness.
We
arrived at Port Said after six day from Genova, and we were preparing us to
proceed through the Suez Canal. We rigged up the massive search light on the
bow of the ship. At night we need light to see the buoys along the channel
bank. Buoys are provided with mirrors. The big light on the bow of the ship
reflect the light of the mirrors, so that the helmsman has a clear vision where
the channel bank is. And stay right in the middle of the channel. It takes a
lot of concentration. If you lost your concentration, that could end up in a
disastrous result. This was my third time passing through the Suez Canal. I proceed
on the bridge to take my turn on the wheel, but I was not good enough, and I
got a kick on my backside.
About
12 hours later we reached the other side of the Suez Canal and arrived in Suez.
We
dropped off the big light in the water, they are waterproof, and proceed
through the Gulf of Suez. The next day we enter the Red Sea. It was very hot in
the red Sea. The temperature could rise above 50 degrees and at night drop to
almost zero. After all the loading equipment was cleaned up, we started to clean
the rust out of the way. Using chip hammers or a chipping machine. We never
liked those chipping tools, because they make a lot of noise, and very dusty.
Our next port was Aden. We called in only for bunker and provisions. Usually we
stayed for a few hours. But while we bunker, plenty of merchant men arrived
with little boats and try to sell or swamp their merchandise.
Soon
we left Aden, and we were underway to the Persian Gulf. Sailing through the
Indian Ocean into the Arabian Gulf. And soon after that we were in the Gulf of
Oman. And then we enter the Strait of Hormuz. Muscat, I believe was the first
port of call. Very old place and the place were encircled by high rocks. And it
was very hot. After Muscat we called in Dubay, Damman, Kuwait and then to Adadan
on the river Shatt al Arab. The ports are no far away from each other, just a
few hours sailing. During unloading we have to do duties as a security guard
down below the hatchway. Sitting below with the dockworkers, make sure that
they do not steal or smoke. And also night duties on deck, keep an eye on
mooring robes. By rising or falling tide, the robes have to be in the right
position. And also keep an eye on the gangway. Make sure if is not high or to
low. You always had to keep an eye on those Arabs. They steel everything under
the sun.
Try
to break open every door on the ship if you give then an opportunity. In Abadan
we stayed a few days unloading all kind of cargo, from sweets to shoes, and all
kind of machinery, cars and buses, steel pipes and barb wire. From Abadan to
Khorramshare in Iran is about 60 km up river, very close to Barah in Iraq.
Abadan and Khorramshare are oil refinery places. In Khorramshare we stayed
about two weeks. It is a very busy port, but works is very slow. Most of the
time we were waiting for a vacancy along the wharf.
While
we waiting for a berth along side the wharf, we start painting the ship. No
dockworkers on board make it for us comfortable and no interference. Start
normally outside the hull. For me was it the first time and I found it very
scary, special under the bow or stern. You are right underneath the ship. You
always looking up if some body throw rubbish over board. The stern is the worse
place, because we built a dunny just over the hand rail. That is for the dockworkers
they jumped over the hand rail into the dunny, and shit in the river. It
worried us, because if we painting underneath the stern, we never know if
somebody sitting in the dunny. Thus we keep looking up if we can see a bare bum
sticking out. And if we see one, well, it is not a pretty sight. The masts also
had to be painted. That was very scary, sitting 30 metres above the deck that
was no joke for the first. I was like a monkey, used my both hand and feet to
hang on something. My stomach was turning around. Sitting in a bosunchair with
only a robe above your head, but slowly I got used to that idea.
The
Shatt al Arab is a similar river as the Hooghly River near calcutta in India,
so I had mentioned in my previous story. In Khorramshare we went on shore for
the first time since Genova in Italy, nothing much to see. The only place was
the Mission of seamen. No alcohol is serviced in any place. There are no night
clubs or dancing girls. In the Mission of Seamen you buy only souvenirs or coca
cola, there is a big swimming pool. Sometimes we organized a football match
against other ships. Usually all ships carry football equipment provided by the
ship companies. Approximately 20 km higher up the river is Basrah. Basrah is on
the opposite side of Khorramshare. Basrah was similar as Khorramshare, nothing
much to do.
Barsah
is situated on the rivers Tigris and Euphrates.
We
unload and load cargo, mainly dates and oil products. We left Basrah down the
river back to the Gulf, called in a few ports along the Irian coast. Picking up
more cargo, and then going home.
But
in the Indian Ocean on the return leg, we sudden received a message from
Holland, that we are redirect to East Africa. First we though it was a joke,
but soon we found we were underway to east-Africa. It is very unusual to go to
East-Africa from the Persian Gulf. It was a long way down of the coast of
east-Africa to Beira. Beira is a small port of Mozambique. I don’t remember
much of the voyage to East-Africa.
I
recall one incident between the Captain and the pilot, when we arrived in
Mtwara. Our Captain stood on the bridge looking down to the deck, and shouting
to a black gentleman on the deck, in a peculiar language, I require a pilot,
not a black boy, but not knowing that the black gentleman in a T-shirt and
wearing thongs was the pilot. From Mtware to Dar es salaam, Zanzibar, Tanga and
the last port Mombassa.
Mombassa
was an interesting place. Main road from the port to the city has two elephant
task facing across the road. We only stayed a few weeks on the coast, and we
were on the way home. Again we called in Aden for bunker and provisions, and
then through the red Sea again to Suez Canal, and then through the
Mediterranean to Genova. In Genova was big party time again, and to Marseille,
and if I remember we called in La Havre, in the English Channel. Antwerp next
and return to Amsterdam.
Coming
home safe after a voyage of three or four months, for the most seamen a very exciting
event, Seeing there family and friend again is always for some sailors an
emotional experience. But two weeks after I arrived with the “Lieve Vrouwekerk”
in Amsterdam, I was on my way again, with a next ship, called “Rijnkerk”, just
for about two weeks along the coast to Germany and Belgium.
I
came home for four days, and disappeared again with the same ship to China and
Japan. We departed from Rotterdam on 11.4.1956 to the orient. I was very
pleased to get away from home. I felt relieved to be my self again. And it was
a new experience for me to see the other side of the world. I just had enough
of India and the Persian Gulf.
The
“Rijnkerk” was a complete different ship. It was a motor vessel, and it was
faster then a “Liberty Ship”. It had a broken mid-ship, and our quarters were
on the stern of the ship.
A
broken mid-ship structure is built in two parts. Between the structures is a
loading hatch. It is a British built ship in 1941. Its take a little while to
get used to it, to sleep on the stern of the ship, because you’re living right
above the propeller. The first few days you could hear the movement of the
propeller sliding through the water. In rough seas makes it worse. The bow of
the ship drops down in a wave, and the stern rising up, so the propeller is
half or whole out of the water.
As
the propeller is above the water, that means the propeller increase the
revolutions, and that causing vibration. It is worse when it ship is empty you
have to hang on something, otherwise you go ass over head. And when you having
a meal, you quick smart pick up your plate, other wise you got spats and
vegetables dripping from your nostrils. It feels that your stomach comes out
your throat with everything in it.
And
if you not used to it, makes you terrible sick.
Nevertheless,
that all storms at any time and anywhere are unpredictable, but most
experienced sailors are not frighten, After a period of time at sea you learn
to live with danger.
Only
for the youngster is it a frightening experience. The most youngest people that
look for a career at sea never last very long. Live on board is a dedication,
and not every body could deal with it. We had a youngster, he was a son of a
minister of the church, it was his first trip, but he was not very impressed
with the social life on board. He never returned to the sea again.
After
we left Holland, we proceed through the English Channel to the Atlantic Ocean.
Sailing south to Gibraltar into the Mediterranean to the usual port of call,
and then to Port Said, through Suez Canal, and to Aden, from Aden into the
Indian Ocean to Pinang in Malaysia. It was a good feeling to put your feet on
shore from a moving ship. It was a long way from Aden to Pinang, through the
Indian Ocean. No much to see, for an exception of a few islands we passed, or a
few ships that passing by. During the crossing, on board we continued with our
routine work and social life. Soon we left Pinang for Kuala Lumpur, and to
Singapore. In Singapore we unload some cargo, and then we bunker and received
supplies, and we were off to Bangkok. Bangkok, that was were the fun started.
We stayed a couple of days. Bangkok always has been well known for
prostitution. And for the most sailors was it heaven. Going into the bars in
Bangkok is an experience that I never will forget. There were young women from
14 and upwards. Some prostitutes only are wearing underwear. They hang around
men like flies. I was only a lad of 18, but I could not work out, if it was a
reality or some sort of a night mare.
Anyhow,
I settle down, and start drinking alcohol with a few mates. Just looking what
was going on around us. Occasionally some prostitutes came along, and started
talking to us. When they talk to us, we duck for cover otherwise we were
fumigated by garlic breath. The smoke in the bar was thick; you could almost
cut it with a knife. While the night when on, most of our sailors started to
get drunk. Even I started to feel the effects of the alcohol. We were drinking
Thailand beer it tasted not all that bad, after a few. Anyhow later that night
I had enough, and returned to the ship.
On
board I though had an other night mare. I saw half naked women running
everywhere. Some sailors brought prostitute on board. Bringing women on board
is a tricky business. Most Captains would not allowed women on board.
So
the nearest thing is a robe overboard. The women sitting in a little boat, come
along side, normally under the stern of the ship, then throw a line overboard,
tie it on the handrail, and the women hang on the line, climb on the line on
deck. If I was on night duty, and I see my mates bringing prostitutes on board,
I usually look at the other way, and walk away. But anyway, I had a lot to
drink, and my bloody head was spinning around.
The
next morning I was pretty sick. But no excuse, work on deck must go on. I had
only a few hours sleep. First few hours, I walk like a Zambi. Nearly breaking
my neck, over everything what came across my feet. But later in the day, there
a light on the other end of the tunnel. I recovered, and had my strength back.
We
left Bangkok early the next morning to the next Port of Hong Kong, four or five
days sailing. For the sailors who had an excitable night with a prostitute, it
was D-Day for them. There worries just started to begin. Normally three or four
days after there love making performing, they will know if Father Christmas
left them a surprise. If so, up to the sick room, your pants down, bend over ,
bum up, and waiting for the most rewarded decoration, “The Golden Needle”.
The
most common venereal is the Gonorrhoea, well known as “Dripper”, normally they
are cured by two or three injections of penicillin.
We
have an old saying in Holland; if you burned your ass, you must sit on your
blisters.
There
are more serious venereal diseases, but I rather do not wish to explain the
details of those unpleased feelings.
At
the arrival in Hong Kong, it was very windy. We were warned for a tropical
cyclone that was hanging around Hong Kong. We left Hong Kong the next morning,
and the wind was still very strong, when in the open sea, it started to get
very rough, and we had to change course a few times to try to avoid the
cyclone, but we just got caught in the tail end of the cyclone. I was pretty
rough, but fortunate we came through with no damage.
After
Hong Kong we were off to Shanghai. At that time the Chinese were in war with
Taiwan. We were no allowed to sail through the Formosa Strait. The two Chinese
we throwing tennis balls to each other, and it was not the Wimbledon
Championship either. We had to go around the Island of Taiwan.
I
thing it was 10 or 20 miles. Approaching the Island, we were several times
intercepted by Chinese war ships. We were intercepted in the middle of the
night by a Chinese submarine. We all had to stand on deck while armed guards
searching the ship. It took a while, because they looked everywhere. Eventually
they let us go. The next morning by day light, Chinese war planes were flying
constants over our head. A Dutch flag was spread and tied over a hatchway. And
again we were intercepted it was a Chinese war ship.
And
the same thing again, on deck, and we were surrounded by guards. We were hoping
that they do not throwing tennis balls at us.
Anyway,
they left us alone, and we were underway to Shanghai
Arriving
at Shanghai there were more exciting events. We all were sitting on the deck
again watching the Chinese looking for tennis balls. But they did not found
any, and after we were questioned, the way to Shanghai was free. We moored
along side the wharf, and the dockworkers started unloading the cargo. We were
astounding to hear the sound of deafening Chinese music playing on the wharf
during the day, while the dockworkers were working. We went on shore that
night, but it was much quit. There were no bars or other entertainment. We looked
in the Mission of Seamen, and had a good look around.
I
found the Chinese people very friendly, and very polite. They spoke very
little, but I suspect it was the pressure of the communist regime in those
years. I found the Chinese very clean people. We were not necessary to lock
your doors, because they were trustworthy people, and do not steal. Shanghai is
situated on the Yangtze River, it is very wide river, but very yellow coloured,
because of the sandy environment. Next ports, Shanghai to Tsingtao, Tientsin
and Dairen, unloading and loading goods and soy beans for Europe. After China,
Japan next. In Japan we stayed not very long. We called in the Port of Kobe,
Nagoya, and Yokohama in Japan. From Japan to the Philippines called in the Port
of Manila and Cebu. Manila and Cebu were interesting places. Around the bars
and in the wharf areas, a lot of poofters were wondering about. They have a
nick name, “Bell or Belly Boys”, I do
not why they that nick name, but they a pain in the ass. They hang around you,
putting there arms around, and tried to kiss you. The only treatment they need
is a horse kick right under there balls. You have to take care when you drunk,
you could be end up hanging on the wrong end.
We were loading local products, mainly copra, tobacco and mining products. We left the Philippines, and prepared for the return voyage to Europe. We called in Singapore for bunker and supplies, then to Kuala Lumpur and Pinang, then across the Indian Ocean, and the Red Sea to the Suez Canal and to Port Said. We called in a few ports along the way. From Port Said into the Mediterranean, stopped in a few ports, and through the Strait of Gibraltar, and set course for Rotterdam. We arrived on 8.9.1956 in Rotterdam.
Being
home for a week, after I returned from China and Japan, my money started to run
out. I still was a seaman extraordinary, thus my money does not go far. I had
no choice, but looking for a ship. I managed to sign on the Liberty Ship
“Leopoldskerk”. Was only a round trip to Germany, Belgium and London, return to
Amsterdam. That was September 1956, and I just turned 19 year of age. So I
though, it is about time for a promotion, I spoke to my boatswain, but I could
not promise me any result, but said, he will do his best for me.
Later
to my surprise, my request was granted. I was very pleased and relieved.
I
was earning now a good wage, and 5 days later I signed on for a round trip on
the “Rijnkerk” again as an able seaman. Returned after three weeks, and again I
signed on for a short trip. Again a Liberty Ship “Lutterkerk” to Bremen and
Hamburg. This time I decided to have a look on shore, and found that nothing
much has changed. There were still a lot of prostitutes wandering around, some
sailors smuggle a prostitute on board. Some Captains have an inspection,
looking for prostitutes.
I
remember in one instance, I walk in my cabin, open my wardrobe, found a naked
women standing in it.
I
do not know how she got in there, I presume, she must heard some footsteps outside
the cabin, and must thought, it was the Captain. She not knowing it was my
wardrobe.
Cabins
on Liberty ships are accommodated for three persons. So she slipped in the
first one she could found. No knowing it was my. Sometimes sailors keep their
woman on board and take them to Hamburg, or the other way around, dropped them
off Bremen. From Bremen to Hamburg is a short sailing distance.
On
16.11.1956 I left again with the ship “Ridderkerk” similar type of ship as
“Rijnkerk” with a broken midship, to Bremen and Hamburg, and again to Antwerp.
The strange thing I noticed was the steering mechanism. It had no normal
steering wheel. There two push buttons, to port push left, to starboard push
right. It was a German invention. It took a while to get used to it.
We
returned on 29.11.1946.
By
this time I turned 19 year of age. It was time for national service. I was
called up to the Naval Base in Den Helder, on the top end of North of Holland.
I had my medical and IQ test and so on. I had no problems with that, all were I
was waiting for was the final interview. There about 15 people if I remember. I
was the last one to be heard, but I had to wait for some reason, at the time I
could not work out why, but found out the next day. But in the meantime, I was
waiting. They did ask me before what I wanted to do, 18 months on warship
duties or 6 years merchant ship, but, they advice me for 6 years. I signed the
agreement, and I was off back to Rotterdam.
The
next day I inform my Mother that I had signed on 6 years navy. But she said
straight out, that she already knew, because she has written to the Ministry of
Defence, if they would exempt from 18 months service for the Royal Dutch Navy,
but to place me 6 years Merchant Navy. The reason for that, if I was to go for 18
months, she would not receive money from me.
Apparently
she wrote to the Ministry of Defence, that she was a single parent, and no one
took care of her, and that I was financially responsible for her. So always
keep interfering in my affairs, and poke her nose, where she is not welcome.
But this time her nose was to long. The steam in the meantime started to come
out my ears. I was furious, and almost uncontrollable. We had a terrible
argument, which got almost out of control.
She
said I was only 19 year of age, and still time to send me back to the reform
school.
So
I considered that as a threat. So I answered, for your sake do not even think
about it.
But
in any case she would never succeed with that, because reform schools were
abolished a long time ago. After I left home, I did not what to do I was not
allowed to sail on foreign ships. I was decided to get pissed, and walk to the
first bar I saw, I drunk me self silly, and started wandering the streets that
night. I ended up somewhere, and still I can’t remember where it was. A few
days later, I took the train to Amsterdam to see my sister, and I stayed there
a few days, and returned to Rotterdam. Soon I arrived, in Rotterdam, I
proceeded to the ship company, but ship at that time was not available, so I decided
to quit the company, and look for employment somewhere else. I managed to sign
on a ship “Alkaid” of a company called Van Nieuwveld Goudriaan, but again a
short trip to Bremen, Hamburg and Antwerp. I started bloody well pissed of
going to Bremen and Hamburg. They advice me, that there was nothing else
available.
So
I told them to get stuffed, and I left. There were plenty ship available
everywhere.
I
found employment with the Royal Rotterdam Lloyd, and signed on the ship
“Wonogiri”. A voyage to Indonesia for approximately 6 months. I was very
pleased to get away from home, so I could recuperate from the conflict I
experienced with my Mother.
I
had to wait for a week of so, before the departure. But I was able to work on
that ship until departure. It was a good looking ship, with single cabins. We
left Rotterdam on 25.1.1957. It was a very cold winter that year. Leaving the
wharf, ice was everywhere. The mooring robes were frozen stiff. I was winched
the robes on board, but it was very difficult to handle. The person behind me
shouted the robes are stiff like a cock on a randy donkey. We left the wharf,
sailed on the new waterway to the Hook of Holland, dropped off the pilot, and
proceed through the English Channel to the Atlantic Ocean. The wind was icy
cold in the English Channel, but the sea was not to rough, until we enter the
Atlantic Ocean. It was very rough; it shook the hell out of us. But after the
storm, the weather started to clear up, and we enjoyed the pleasant voyage
through the Mediterranean to Port Said, and into the Suez Canal, proceeding
through the Red Sea to Aden. After receiving bunker oil and supplies in Aden,
again we were underway through the Indian Ocean to Belawan in Sumatra. The
crossing of the Indian Ocean was similar then the previous crossings doing the
usual work. Two weeks later we arrived in Belawam; and via Singapore to Jakarta
on the Island of Java.
Indonesia
is a big country, with approximately 13.500 Islands. It is a beautiful country,
but with unpredictable weather patterns. Unexpected horrified thunder storms
could occur at any times. Sailing among the Islands at night, when we have look
out duties on the bow, and there is a thunder storm, I never put my hands or
arms over the handrail, special when the hand rail is wet. Lightning could hit
the hand rail at anytime, and that occurred to me, while standing near the hand
rail. If I had my hands on the hand rail, well, goodbye hands. A lighting
strike, travelled along the hand rail, it was a frightful experience. Often the
lightning strike the top of the mast and that is why we never get in the mast
if there is a thunder storm it always hit the highest point.
It
was a very turbulent situation in Indonesia. Indonesia was ruled by the
dictator named, Soekarno. He was causing the Dutch people many headaches It was
very dangerous time for the Dutch citizen at that time in Indonesia. He told
the Dutch people living in Indonesia, be naturalized or get out. But the
majority Dutch people left the country, moving to different parts of the world,
to Australia, New Zealand and other nations, but the most people returned to
the Netherlands.
On
board I heard a lot of stories about Jakarta. So I decided to have a good look
around. Jakarta was a long distance from the harbour, so I hang around close to
the harbour. It was in the afternoon I was off duty, but I should have in bed
that afternoon. I had to be back on board at 8 o’clock that night for night
duties, but that afternoon I decided to have a few beer, but I met a couple
mates, and decide to stay in the bar, so soon a few beer we to many. But about
6 o’clock I struggled back to the ship, tried to walk in a straight line, but I
crashed on my ass a few times. But I managed to come a short distance from the
ship, maybe 200 or 300 metres. But I met a few other mates from the ship. We
had a chat, and they asked me, if I like to go back to the bar. But stupid
bloody me I agreed. I bought two nice Bali carved statues, and it was
inconvenience to carry them to the bar. I decided to bury the two statues near
a tree. I picked out a tree, and put them in the ground. But the only problem
is that all the trees look the same when you pissed, so I never found them
again. I returned to the bars, and had fun. There were a lot of prostitutes.
Anyhow, I kept filling me guts with beer till late that night. I don’t remember
what became of me that night. I must have past out. I woke up somewhere laying
in a campong (campong is an Indonesian word for shanty town). How I found my
way back to the ship, I don’t understand. It must have been nearly in the
morning. The next day was D-Day; I had to face the music. I had a bloody sore
head. The Captain was waiting to see me.
The Captain was a very strict officer, and a gentleman. I still remember has
name; I was severely reprimanded and lost 10 days of my wage. We left Jakarta,
and move along the coast of Java.
Surabaya
was the next big port in Java.
We
called in several ports among the Islands. It is very difficult to remember the
names of ports. In one port, I was on night duty, when the workshop of the
carpenter was ransacked. I don’t know how that occurred. It must have been
early in the morning. I didn’t hear or see anything. The workshop could not
have been locked up. Those rice pickers are very slippery and quick. We were
sailing from Island to Island picking up local products, including logs. Logs
often are used as deck cargo. Ship normally has potholes in the deck to secure
the deck cargo. When not carrying deck cargo we fill them with cement, to avoid
hooked your feet in it. The carpenter gave me a long crowbar, and asked me to
hold it for him. And he hit it with a slash hammer. I told him to piss off, do
it your self. That is to risky for me. But he keep on persisting at was safe,
and would not hit my knee. So reluctant I give in. But guess what, he missed
and hit my knee. I called him a fat bastard and everything else under the
tropical sun. I rolled ass over head,
and on my back on the boiling hot deck. The deck was that hot, I nearly could
cook an egg. Holding my knee, that immediately started to swell up. Sudden that
idiot of a male nurse turned up. He only looked at my knee, and said to get up,
there was nothing wrong with my knee. I told him he is a bigger idiot I tough
he was. I could not bend or stand on my knee. I told him to go to hell. I
stopped working that day, and gave my knee a rest. Fortunate nothing was
broken. The next day my knee was improved.
We
were still cruising among the Islands, and we called in a port somewhere in
Borneo.
I
don’t remember the name of that place. It was on a river, right in the jungle.
We dropped it anchor, and the cargo came on barges. It was local products in
bags and logs. The local people that live there are called, Dayaks. The first I
noticed, there ears, they have big holes in the lower part of there ears. I
have no idea why. But it’s more like an episode from Dr. Who. I have no idea
what started this commotion. It must have been on a weekend. We all sitting in
the mess room, (situated on the stern of the ship), drinking coffee or tea,
sudden we heard screaming and shouting on the deck. We got up, some run out the
door, and others looking through the porthole. We saw one of our mates chased
by a lot of Dayaks. At the time we did not know the reason. But we run all out,
and came to the rescue. They all carrying sticks and other objects. We had our
mate safe in side the mess room, shaken but not hurt. The Dayaks still shouting
outside, with there stick in there hands.
Eventually
we managed to kick there ass. Later we found out what really happened.
Apparently
the finger was pointed at the first officer. It appears that the first officer
gave the man on duty an order to alter the gangway. And that must upset the
dockworkers. Apparently the man on duty advice the first Officer it was not a
good idea. But the man follow his order, but it created a danger consistency.
The dockworkers left their job, and did not return, we lifted it anchor, sailed
away with cargo left behind. We returned to Java for more cargo, and a few
passengers and also several animals came on board.
A
tiger, it was a beautiful animal. The tiger needed every morning her exercise,
so she had to be walked on deck with a leash around her neck.
And
a big snake, Boa Constrictor. She was in a big wooded box. Usually is the
carpenter that takes care of the animals. It happened one night at sea, an able
seaman performing his duty, by looking around the ship, and found that the lock
was removed from the wooded box of the big snake. He reported to the officer on
duty, and investigated the situation. The carpenter was woken, and told to
explain why the lock was removed of the box. He was the only person on board,
(beside the Captain), to be in possession of the key. But denied it was not him
that removed the lock.
The
must hilarious tale was the Orangutan, it was the most enjoyable, and lovable
creature we ever to deal with. It had a long chain around his neck, and sitting
on deck. We always took him for a walk. On one particular night he managed to
break free and started to gallop on
deck. The lookout on the bow, not expected anything, sudden noticed the escape
orangutan sitting behind him. Later the lookout told us, that the orangutan
frighten the bloody shit out of him. Anyway, he notified the officer on duty,
and the orangutan was put back in his place.
We
had also a few Raccoon or Washing bears on board. They are cute little animals,
about a 1 or 2 feet long. They were running free on deck. At one afternoon,
some officers were strolling on deck, and sudden those little cute wash bears
running across the deck, and started to hang on there nice white uniforms, and
in a minute, there uniforms were full with little dirty paws.
But
if I remember, all animals arrived in good health in there destination. And we
took a few passengers for Europe, mainly to the Netherlands, and soon we were
back on our way to Holland. But during the crossing of the Indian Ocean, one of
the passengers became ill. I had no idea, if the passenger was ill when we left
Java or became ill during the crossing of the India Ocean. When we arrived at
Port Said, the passenger’s health was deteriorated. I could not work out, why
the patient was not put ashore in Port Said. Perhaps he had his reason. Few
days after we departed from Port Said, we were notified that the passenger has
past on, and the deceased wish to be buried at sea. Ships normally have no
coffins on board, so the carpenter was instructed to make a coffin. In the
coffin we placed some steel, about 70 or 80 kilos to preventing to stay afloat.
And also holes had to be drilled into the wood, coffins or canvas must always
prevent to stay afloat. Burial at sea was for me a dramatic experience. We
prepared the burial on the port side on the stern of the ship. We were flying
the Dutch flag half mast most of the day. It was about 3 or 4 o’clock in the
afternoon, when the burial took place. The ship engine was stopped. Six able
seamen including me were pal bearers. We wore our uniforms, and it was very
formal.
The
coffin was placed on the hand rail with the Dutch flag spread over the coffin.
A other ship approached us from the stern, I don’t know what nationality, but
she stopped there engine, and did not proceed till after the burial, out of
respect. The Mediterranean Sea was very calm and there was not much wind. We
all gather around the coffin, three of us on each side, and behind us the rest
of the officers and crew. The relatives and the captain near the front of the
coffin.
Before
sliding the coffin overboard, it is the Captain’s duty to perform the ceremony.
Then we lift the coffin, and late it slip overboard from under the flag. After
that a minute silence. And we removed the flag of the mast. First to the top of
the mast, and the lowered it down to the deck, and roll it up. Never drop a
flag on deck. We started the ship engine, sailed a circle, blow the horn, and
we precede to Gibraltar. Three days later we were passing Gibraltar and into
the Atlantic Ocean. It was June, and only 6 or 7 days from home. The weather
was very good, and we did not expect more problems. But not to be, near
entering the English Channel, the last event we never expected to occur in
June. It was fog. The most feared occurrence for a seaman. It was very thick,
if you stood on the bow, you could not see the midship, perhaps 100 metres at
most. We were moving very slowly, but the worse was coming. Our radar was
unworkable, so we in a useless position. But still was not enough, some time
later, our communication system broke down. We were abandoned in the Atlantic Ocean,
and no where to go, and nobody to talk to. We rigged up our emergency
communication system equipment, but the effectiveness of the system was very
limited. Depend on the atmospheric weather conditions. We were no moving it
all, just drifting around. There were plenty ships around us, we could hear the
ships very close up, even we could hear there voices. Earlier on, before we
lost contact with the outside world. Some collisions occurred in our vicinity,
but we were hopeless in trouble. Just waiting what is going to happen.
The
only thing we could do was, on your knees, asked, Budda for a happy voyage to
heaven. The following day, we did no go to heaven, but steaming to Rotterdam.
We arrived in Rotterdam on 22.6.1956, and the wharf was full with people,
waiting to go on board. We finished what had to be done, I jumped under the
shower, and change my clothes, collected my money, when home dropped off my
suitcase, and I could not wait to taste our own brewed Heinekens beer. The last
time that I had a good piss up was in Jakarta five months ago.
Shortly
after I arrived from my voyage from Indonesia, I was on my rounds from bars to
bars again looking for my mates. My drinking has not much improved, but that
was only life I knew. By drinking, it releases the pressure upon me. Drinking
for me was a safety valve, when I was at home. When I’m at sea, drinking
becomes less, because I was away from home.
Anyway,
I found my mate, and while we were drinking, we having a good chat about our
adventure we had on the “Wonogiri”. It was fun, a good way for me to get over
my problems. It turns my mind away from my home life. We kept on drinking till
we looked silly. Only a few other people at the bar, including some women. We
all were chatting happily, and rising the beer glass high in the air.
Later
that night I kicked the bucket, past out, and lost my memory. The next morning,
I must have been sleep walking, sudden I realized something funny was going on.
Soon I lifted my head, well, I could not believe what my eyes saw. I looked
left, and then right, I looked straight in a smiling face of a police officer
on each side of me. I asked them, what the bloody hell is happened. They said,
we don’t know, you tell us. Perhaps we can help you. My answered, I don’t know.
What have I done, was my question, nothing much, except you lost your trousers,
they said. So I looked down, and two knees poked through my raincoat.
Surprisingly I was wearing two raincoats. One of the raincoats belongs to my
mate. Police officer asked me if I had a mate. I reply yes, but I don’t where
he is.
Anyway,
we enter the police station, and there were smiles all around. They gave me a
chair and a little table, and offer me a coffee, to recover from my exuberant
ordeal. Ordered me to stay for a little while, and give them time to find my
friend. Later a police officer brought in a young man, and asked me, if this
man is your mate. But it was difficult to see who he was; his face was black as
a nigger’s ass. I asked him why that black face. He answered, I have no idea.
Maybe you slept with a black woman, I said to him. Police asked him to be his
face, he was not my mate. I was allowed to go home; I had a choice, with a
police car, or a taxi. I said a taxi is fine, police organized a taxi for me,
and I was off to home.
Coming home was for my Mother a heartbreaking occurrence. She carried on for a while, I don’t remember all what she said, but it end up by saying; that I was a sinner, and God will punish me, there was no place for me in heaven. Looking for a pair of trousers was not easy, they were still in my suitcase, were I left them, when I came home a few days ago. I never bother to open my suitcase, because my Mother never bothers to wash my dirty clothes. I could not find one, so I borrow one of my Brothers, who was not home that time. Run to the shop bought a new pair of trousers, run back home return the trousers of my Brother, I was off again looking for my mate. I had an idea were he was, and return his raincoat, asked him were he disappeared to, but he could not tell me. He remembers nothing. We hang around a few more days, and we split up. I stayed in Rotterdam for a week of so, mainly drinking in bars till my money was exhausted, and it was time again to return to sea, looking for a new adventure.
Again
I found employment with my previous Company, van Nieuveld Goudriaan, few days
later signed on the ship “Alnati”. All ships of that company are named after
stars. ”Alnati” is a cargo ship with accommodation for passengers.
We
left Rotterdam on 6.7.1957 to South-America. Just before we left Rotterdam, a
little incident occurred, we were standing in our cabin, the person with me, I
just met, noticed a few people walking past our cabin, speaking in German,
which I do not understand, saying that only ordinary people lives here. The
person flew out the cabin, confronted the people. Calling the Dutch ordinary
people is considered an insult.
Departing
from Rotterdam along the coast of Europe, and passing Spain to Morocco coast to
Las Palmas. Las Palmas Islands situated along the coast of Morocco, but the
islands are Spanish. We stayed only for a short while for bunker and supplies.
We bought few boxes of cigarettes to sell in South-America for a profit. We
left Las Palmas short time later. We were underway to Recife in Brazil, voyage
of about 2 weeks to Recife only a small harbour. We unloaded some cargo, and
the next to day to Rio de Janeiro, only a few days sailing. Rio de Janeiro is a
beautiful natural harbour. On the waterfront is the famous cone-shaped, Sugar
Loaf. A mountain 395 metres high which can be reached by an aerial cable line.
On top of the Sugar Loaf the Statue of Jesus Christ the Redeemer, 29 metres
tall, completed in 1931. Rio de Janeiro has a beautiful sandy beach, called
Copacabana. It is a few kilometres long, makes a nice walk, and has fun. The
centre of the city is well built, but outside the city, the poverty is showing
a different picture.
We
departed from Rio de Janeiro, underway to Santos, only a few hours from Rio de
Janeiro. A reasonable size port, the wharf was about 4 or 5 ship length long.
Soon
after we left Santos, we were underway further down, called in a few smaller
ports. Next big port was Montevideo, on the beginning of the river Rio de la Plata
(Silver River). Next port Buenos Aires, approximately 6 hours up river Rio de
la Plata.
The
Rio de la Plata is a long navigable river. Ocean going ships go so far as Santa
Fe and short sea traders as far Corrientes. Since the first day I saw Buenos Aires
(Fair winds), I nearly felt in love with the city. It was the first astonishing
city I had seen, with large streets going for kilometres. Brazil is the biggest
coffee exporter in the world. Beef come second. Argentina export wheat to
Europe and Asia. In Buenos Aires we signed off the “Alnati” and signed on the
“Alpherat”, a ship of the same Company. The “Alnati” left Buenos Aires up river
first to Santa Fe loading wheat, then down river to Rosario and Buenos Aires
again to top up with wheat and returning to Europe. My mate and I exchanged two
crew members of the Victory Ship “Alpherat”, two members of the “Alpherat” on
board of the “Alnati”, and returned home.
We
stay with the “Alpherat” few days in Buenos Aires. I had plenty time to look
around in the city. I was very impressed, and made to most of it. There is a
famous street called; Cincuenta Cinco de Mayo, (25th May). Very bad turbulent
street, with bars and full with prostitutes. Main alcoholic drinks are beer
called (cerveza), and rum and coca cola was very cheap. My drinking habit was a
little improved. Since we left Holland, I have not touched much alcohol. We
left Buenos Aires for Montevideo, stayed for a few days, we followed the coast
up along Brazil, called in several small ports, pick up coffee and other local
products, till we reached Rio de Janeiro. We stayed for a few days, and I
decided to go ashore. I had the tasted of rum and coca cola, so I had a few to
many, but I had fun.
And
late that night I walked back to the ship on my knees. I believe it was Natal,
a small port half way the coast of Brazil. In Natal load more coffee. We were
well loaded; we left the coast of Brazil, underway to Port of Spain or Curacao
for bunker. Again underway through the Caribbean sea passing several islands, to
the East Coast of the United States. Sailing through the Bermuda Triangle, but
we did not disappeared, we arrived in the United States unharmed.
Arriving
at the first port in the United State was well the most hilarious ridiculous
dilemma that ever could happen to you. The first people that come on board are
a doctor and immigration officers. They ask you several questions, relating to
communism, if you are a communist, or have you any communist influence, or your
family. It feels more an interrogation. We were advised by our superior to
answer the questions truthfully, and not replying with funny remarks, that
could end up with a devastating result. But the most exhilarious excitement was
to come. We all had an invitation for the well famous, what we called it
(“Prick Parade”). We had no choice, but to except the invitation, and show
Sherlock Holmes the weapon of evil, and look for evidence.
But
to be serious, and very honest, I found this commotion personally very
embarrassing, for some sailors. There are many educated and well behaved
seafares on ships, in my opinion it is an unnecessary intrusion of your
personal affection. Later that day we were allowed to enter the port, tie up
along the wharf. I do not remember which port it was.
Sailing
along the coast was most interesting, calling in several ports, Baltimore,
Philadelphia, New York, Boston, New Port News, and a few more. Moving through
the inland sea, rivers and canals was fascinating. In New York we stayed a few
days, that gives us time for shopping, buying trousers, shirts and jackets. I
bought a torch in the in the States, they were very strong, you could not break
it, or drop on deck wont break.
Throwing
against the wall, it has no affection. It called a “Bright Star” torch. Left
New York, and steamed on the river Hudson to Albany, a very long river. We past
a lot of ship, Liberties, and Victories ship, they were all in mothballs. I had
never seen so many ships in one place. Then up to Boston and Portland, unload
and load cargo for South-America. Down the coast again, called in several
ports, through the Bermuda triangle to Curacao or Port of Spain for bunker.
Return to the coast of Brazil unloading cargo from the United States. Again we
return to our home port Buenos Aires.
The
voyage was excellent, for except of the usual complains; mainly meals were not
badly prepared, or not cooked. Or there was not enough. But the cook was not
all that bad. The spirit on board among the crew was reasonable good. There
were no friction between officers and crew, we all work together. We had a
couple miserable creatures.
One
was a very big strong man, the other his mate was a little slippery skinny
worm.
They
were always looking for trouble, when alcohol was involved. Always looking for
a fight with someone. That skinny worm tried to pick on my, I told him to shut
you bloody mouth, or otherwise you have to eat meals with your fork and knife
holding with your toes for a while.
While
we were in Buenos Aires, we exchanged a few officers including 1st officer and
captain, two or three crew members.
Buenos
Aires is a very unpredictable city, trouble could erupt at anytime.
We
were standing on deck, sudden all dockworkers walked of the ship, there were
shouting and screaming people everywhere, gunshots were heard, and we run for
cover.
Later
that day the army appeared, and resume working to replace the striking
dockworkers. The army work only in the hatchway. We have been asked if we would
operate the winches, but we were first reluctant to do so out fear of
retaliation from the dockworkers. We negotiate with the stevedore, and we were
reassured there will be resentment. That big strong man (mentioned earlier) and
I commence working at hatchway no 1. We operate the winches so well, that the
stevedore payed we extra wage, for working so good. We were very pleased with
it. We operated the winches till the dockworkers returned after a few days.
Also
along side the wharf was the German Training Vessel “Pamir”. It was a very
attractive sailing vessel. On board approximately 80 youngsters in training
become officers. The “Pamir” departed few days before us. We shook hands,
wished a safe voyage back to Germany. We stayed in Buenos Aires few more days.
We
departed from Buenos Aires again for a voyage to the United States. Few new
crew members came on board, including the Captain and 1st Officer, believing
that everything will stay peaceful.
To
our surprise we loaded a cargo of bananas. I don’t know what type, but were
very green and hard. They were not for human consumption, maybe for cosmetic or
animal food. About 4000 ton I guess. There were bananas every where down in the
hatchway, on deck about 2 metres high. It was very uncomfortable to walk on the
deck, sometimes we had to walk on the top of the bananas. So we tough we living
in a banana republic, then we should have a banana war .We started by throwing
bananas to each other, and we had fun, no body were injured. But sudden the
peace maker arrived. The 1st officer run out his cabin, jumped on the top of
the bananas, and ass overhead he went, that bloody idiot, I never had seen
anybody performing a comical act. The next day we were told the war is over.
The next episode, nearly everybody had bananas in their cabin, including
officers, But the first officer send us all an official notification, send by
pigeon mail, that all the bananas had to be returned to the right full place.
We been told, everybody found with bananas in his cabin, is an act of stealing
from the cargo, and will be instant dismissed.
So
everyone shameful with his head down returned the bananas. I tough the first
officer was either arrogant or stupid. We proceed to a small port called
Paranagua. We picked up small bit of cargo. I can’t remember what it was. We
were off duty, and we had no money, we decided to go for a walk having a good
look around. There was nothing to see, except for a few old buildings, and
dirty old roads. Anyhow, we walked past an old building full with prostitutes
standing in the front of the doors, moving their tongue from one side to the
other side in their mouth, and shouting at us Cheap Fuck. I wouldn’t tough them
with a iron bar two metres long. I was well far below the poverty line. We were
about 200 metres away from the prostitutes, and we could smell them. There was
one old little fellow (now I remember again, I still can’t hide having a smirk
on my face.) He must to been well over 60 years of age, standing with a
banknote in his shaky hands, asking the ladies for a well deserved reward, but
non of the ladies were willing to present the man with the prestige award.
Anyway, we left that stinky place, and wash our mouth with nice fresh air from
the sea.
The
next hilarious event occurred in Santos or Rio de Janeiro, I’m not certain
which port it was, I tough is was Santos. Few sailors went ashore to a tea
party; I have no idea what was in that tea. They returned late that night
coming on board singing the national anthem back to front. They were a bit
noisy, but soon settle down, jumped in bed, off in dreamland.
It
was very hot that time of year, and we had no air condition, so it was hot in
the cabins. They had only few hours’ sleep, and it was time to get up for work.
They got up, except for one. He was sleeping and snoring, it was impossible to
be woken up. He was lying on his back, with is his dick standing up, like a
light pole. One of us had a good idea how to wake him up. He had a string in
his pocket. He tied one end on a shoe, and the other end on his dick. It had to
be done very careful in case he wakes up. Place the shoe next to his chest. My
mate and I run out the cabin, looked from the outside of the porthole. One
character tries to wake him up, eventually he managed to do so, run out and
hide behind the door. We were watching through the porthole from outside. I
almost pissed me pants of laughing.
Anyway,
he looked around for a few seconds, he noticed the shoe, and threw it away.
But,
oh! Dear, what was on the other end of that string. For a minute he stood
there, screaming and swearing holding his dick in his hands.
Later
he settles down looked around, but couldn’t see anybody. Later came in the mess
room, with a red face, steam coming from his ears, having breakfast, no body
said a word.
Next
port was Santos and Rio de Janeiro, then underway to the United States.
Couple
day after we left Rio de Janeiro one crew member became very ill, we had to
call in a small port, and I do not recall the name of that Port. It was
somewhere between Rio de Jainero and
fortaleza. There are so many small ports on the coast of Brasil, it is
very difficult to remember. Soon we were underway to Curacao. I wished that we
kept the previous crew. We all worked together well there were not many
problems, except that big ape and that skinny worm. Bloody warriors they were.
There was a lot of friction building up between the boatswain and that big ape.
Boatswain was a very nice quiet person, never caused any harm to anybody. But
that big ape had different ideas. He was after his job, he always want be a
boatswain. At one day that big ape had much to drink, and had a punch up with
the poor boatswain, the boatswain was no match for him, he was some years
older. And that was not enough, he had a go with an O.S., he was only 18 or 19
years of age. There was also a resentment against to the 1st officer and
captain. It seems that the captain had always his fingers permanent around the
bottle. He was not a gentleman it all.
The
1st officer occasionally running around the deck (trying not to slip on his ass
again), occasionally barking to the bananas, and keep his eyes open, see if
some monkey try to snatch a banana. In the meantime the bananas started to
mature; the smell of rotten bananas became very strong. Even in the living
quarters. We had to shut the portholes, if you were sleeping on the wrong side.
There were bunches so rotten, they had to be fed to the sharks. We couldn’t
wait to be in the United States to get rid of it. In Curacao we stayed a few
hours for bunker and supplies. A hour before we left, I walk on deck, I was
carrying a brush and tin of paint, I walk past the gangway, sudden I saw some
body on the gangway on his hands and knees, I tough who the bloody hell is
that. Anyway, I had a good look, he was our respectful captain, he looked
strait in my eyes, and I said something to him, but unfortunately, I do not
remember what it was, it must to been something funny. It was certainly not an
insult language. Sometime later I was busy painting the handrail (Victory Ships
has a walking passage on the front of the midship).
I
didn’t or see him first, sudden he started shouting at me, then said something
like, I never seen a big mouth bastard like you before, so I returned the
compliment to him. Tomorrow morning I like to see you in my cabin, he said. I
have something to say to you. Well I said that is fine with me. And he
disappeared to his cabin. I wished that I painted that handrail where he was
standing, that would have been an exciting occasion.
I
could not work, why he was so up set about, I did not say anything nasty to
him, maybe a funny remark. But what the hell you expect if you walk on your
hand and feet.
About
an hour later the pilot came on board, and we left the wharf. I was standing on
the stern of the ship, just behind hatchway no 5 I couldn’t see an other way,
because the bananas blocked my view. Looking at the bridge, watching the pilot
and the captain, I had the feeling that the pilot was not very impressed with
the captain. Captain stood in one place, and did not move it all. Just hanging
with his hands on the top of the bridge looking straight ahead. Thanks heaven
that the 1st officer was on the ball. Nothing happened the next day, everything
was very quiet. Close to the Atlantic Ocean, we sudden received a sad massage,
saying the Sailing Vessel “Pamir” sunk. She runs into a North Atlantic
hurricane. 80 young sailors lost their lives, only 6 survived.
I
was very up set about it, but this is a type of danger that could happen to any
sailor at any time. Anyhow, in the meantime we were approaching Bermuda. Soon
we past Bermuda, the weather started to deteriorate. The sea was pretty rough.
But soon after, we enter the coast of the United States. I don’t remember which
port we called in first. It was the same repeat what happened the previous
voyage. Anyway we got rid of those stinking bananas. Big trucks came on the
wharf, and take them away. On deck and in side the hatches were a mess. It took
a while before we had everything cleaned up. We sailed from port to port,
collecting cargo. Nothing much importance developed, and soon we left the coast,
underway to Curacao, and back to Rio de Janeiro, down the coast to Buenos
Aires. By the time we were in Buenos Aires, I just had about enough of that
ship. It was not a pleased crew, there was too much friction.
I
told the 1st officer, I wish to be replaced at the first opportunity.
We
hang around at Buenos Aires for a while waiting for the return voyage to the
United States. I decided to go ashore, having a few rums, and enjoying a wild
night. While the night went on, the rum started to work, and soon I was in
heaven. I decided to stay in a hotel with a few mate and female companionship.
We left Buenos Aires with a few new members, and a few changes have been made.
The boatswain left the “Alpherat”, returned home. That bloody big ape was the new boatswain,
thus the big ape had his way. That skinny worm was still with us, it is a
terrible mixed. Hoping that my turn will be next in the United States.
Cruising
along the coast of South America to Rio de Janeiro, and then to Curacao.
During
the crossing to the United States, something was happening. First I could not
work out what it was, but apparently two or three crew members, during the
night, were slipping in the hatchway no 4 on the front is a security locked.
They slip through an air vent on a robe inside the locked. I had no idea what
was going on at the time.
At
one night I was on watch duty, and I was looking for some one. It was late that
night, and I knocked on one of the doors, door opened two standing in the cabin
having stolen property. It was all personal belongings, clothing, books and
jewellery. I said bloody idiots, what the hell you doing, if they catch you,
you go to jail. I left them alone.
I
believed that the captain already knew what was going on. I kept my mouth shut,
because I had no intention to be involved.
Anyway,
we arrived in the United States, and in Baltimore I left the “Alpherat” with
four others. Travelled by bus or train (I can’t remember) to Norfolk, I signed
on the Liberty Ship “Alcoyne”. For a while I was thinking, why four of us. I
was the only one who requested for replacement.
I
had my suspicious that something was wrong.
In
Norfolk we were loading coal for Rotterdam. It goes fast. A whole railway truck
be picked up, move above the ship, and turn it over, good stuff. We left
Norfolk cross the North Atlantic. It was blowing a hurricane wind, it was
terrible rough weather. We were moving two miles ahead, and one back. The old
Liberty Ship was moaning and groaning, and shaking, for a while and I tough the
old girl is not going to make it. At the time my heart went out for the young
sailors of the “Pamir”. I could imagine what went their mind. It seemed that we
past Land’s End a few times. But eventually we steamed to Rotterdam on
25-3-1958.
I
was ready to go home, but I sudden a voice came from behind, said, excuse me,
we wish to speak to you. I knew there was something cooking.
Anyway,
they were a couple detectives, they were after information regarding theft from
the security locked at the “Alpherat”, and I was asked to proceed with them to
the station. I informed then you are barking to the wrong tree. I have nothing
to do with that business; I never steal
people’s property. But they must have an idea who it was. They were not
after me, but knew that I had information that they wanted to know.
I was told that they could hold me for with holding for evidence. I spent nearly 4 hours at the police station. I said; let me go home I’m clean. They would let me go if I tell them who the culprits are. So I gave in, and I was a free man. Coming home, I never mentioned it to my Mother. She would not hesitate to explain to me how evil it is to be a sailor, but not the money she receive from me.
Home
for two weeks after my South-North-American voyage, it was for me time again to
move on. Staying home for me was not amusing. There was no home life me it all.
I was doing my rounds from bar to bar. I got involved with a barmaid for a
while, on the Westzeedijk in Rotterdam, a bar called “The Spill West”. It was
for a while, but I could not work out what was wrong with her. I had a funny
idea she was a bloody lesbian.
I
just had about enough from all this life. I rather being at sea, ship is my
home. I resigned from van Nieuveld Goudriaan, and re-applied for the VNS, I was
offered the “Loenerkerk”. We departed from Amsterdam to the Persian Gulf on
8.4.1959. Soon we were underway in the English Channel, next Atlantic Ocean,
proceeding to the Mediterranean to Masaille and Genova. I decided to go ashore
in Genova, having a few drinks, there were no problems. Next day we were
underway to Port Said. In Port Said we had a collision with, a ship that
appeared on port side hit us on port side at no 1 hatchway. We all started to
run back to the midships. We were still moving ahead, that other ship was
forced to swing around, came along side us. Smashed our gangway that was
hanging flat at the time. Some handrail got smashed, but apart of that we were
o.k. We proceed through Suez Canal into the Red Sea, and through the Indian
Ocean, and entering the Persian Gulf. Nothing much occurred during the
crossing. Just normal working routine we had to do. We had good officers and
crew.
Except
the boatswain, he was a ignorant bastard, he was a bloody animal. Not a very
nice person at all. Anyway, on the return trip, I can’t remember where it was,
I though it was in the Mediterranean. I had something the drink, the boatswain
was barking at me.
We
had a punch up; I end up with a black eye. We arrived in Anwerp we all went
home by bus to Rotterdam. For the first I was relieved to be back in Holland.
It was a miserable voyage.
The
next day 6.9.1958 I left with the “Lemsterkerk” to the Persian Gulf again.
“Lemsterkerk”
was in Rotterdam, so I had to travel from Amsterdam to Rotterdam again. But
that was fine with me, it was not a problem
The
“Lemsterkerk” was difficult to found, she was a long way from the port area. I
do not remember why, anyway, I got on board, introduce me self to other crew
members, some members I already knew from other ships.
The
departure was delayed due heavy fog. We had to stay overnight in the harbour.
Couple
mates and I decided to go ashore looking for the nearest bar. Was not far away,
and we were enjoying our beer. Soon the alcohol started has an affect. We hung
around till closing time, walked back to the ship. I saw a nice little tree
lying along the road side, I picked it up and took it on board, placed it next
to my bed. Sudden one of my mate was dying for a piss. His intention was to
piss against the tree next to my bed. I was not certain if he was joking or
not, told him to back off.
We
departed next day, it was still very foggy, going to London.
We
left the wharf, moved out the harbour, to the Waterway.
In
Rotterdam we have a good navigation system when sailing on the Waterway to the
Hook of Holland in foggy weather condition. Radar station is placed on the
shore along the Waterway about every 10 kilometres apart. A similar system that
an airport radar system. Ships are directed by radar stations placed on shore.
One radar station could handle up to 5 ships at one time and hand it over to
the next station, and so on.
I
believe we were the second port in the world to have such system. I tough
Portland in the United States was the first port to have such system.
Sailing
in very thick fog is very scary and dangerous. When visibility is 100 metres or
less, in those circumstances extra care could be always taken.
Radar
is a good navigation instrument, but could be also deceiving. Standing on the
bow of a ship in thick fog is not a pleasant feeling. I had my scary moment, I
remember in one occasion, standing on the bow, in thick fog, sudden a very
large object coming straight towards me. It was very close, maybe 200 metres.
It was straight ahead, I run to the phone, warned the bridge of the situation.
Minute later the bridge called back, asking for the exact location. In the
meantime ship had moved slightly to port, again I reported the situation, the
bridge was unable to see that ship. The 1st officer showed his appreciation for
being alert, one minute later it ship passing us by maybe 200 metres.
It
was a ship of the Holland America Line, a Victory Ship and I was unable to read
the name.
Black
hull ships are easier to see then a grey or white hull ships. Black is more
standing out in foggy weather conditions. Slowly we proceed to our destination.
We arrived in London safe and well.
Few
days later we left London, we were underway to the Mediterranean. Load more
cargo in Masaille and Genova. Staying for a short time in those ports, we were
underway to Port Said. Proceeding through Suez Canal to the Persian Gulf.
Calling in the usual ports, along the coast, later we enter the shatt al Arab,
(I thing it means treasure of the Arabs). First port Abadan and next
Khorramshar. In Khorramshar we had to wait for a berth along side of the wharf.
We tough it would be approximately two weeks, but it became 6 weeks. While we
were waiting the “Lindekerk” and “Leuvekerk” came along side us, moving their
cargo to our. Eventually we moved along the wharf, started to unload our cargo.
We had a quantity of heavy cargo we rigged up the heavy derrick. During the
stay in Khorramshar, we had plenty time for painting. We started painting the
hull outside. Collecting ropes and board hanged it over side. A mate and I were
on a board in about midships. Sit on the board painting black and red line. It
was stinking hot, it must to been near 40 degrees. On my head I was wearing a
white American Navy cap. Sudden I felt something dripping on my cap. Bloody
hell I said, what this, it couldn’t be rain. I turn my face on the side, looked
up, o my goodness, guess what I saw. I saw something brown and 6 inches long
poking through the hawse-hole in the bolwarks (closed off handrail). I gave a
shout, next thing I saw a big Arab nose appearing over the bolwarks. I grasped
the rope ladder, climbed to the top, but the time I was on deck, he
disappeared. He was one lucky Arab. I walked inside jumped under the shower.
Told the boatswain, and he burst out of laughing.
Being
on the Shatt al Arab for 6 or 7 weeks is not funny. We left Khorramshar for
Basrah, a short distance away from Khorramshar, loading dates and other
products. We left that uncivilized dump, steaming down river, back to the gulf.
Called upon few more ports along the coast, we secured the hatches and the
loading gear. We were prepared for the way home.
During
the night sailing in the Persian Gulf and Indian Ocean could be very hazardous.
There are many small and large wooden boats, called dhows. The have little or
no navigation instruments, perhaps a compass, but the people on board of those
boats, they relay completely on their natural instinct, and sometimes the stars
are there assistance. At one night I was on the look out on the bow, it was a
moon less night, was very dark.
Sudden
I heard a noise coming from underneath of the bow. I looked down and saw a dhow
trying to get away. She had no lights, so I did not her at all. Radar in our
time could not pick up ship made out of wood. Unfortunately sometimes those
incidents happened. In this case, there were no casualties, we proceed with our
journey.
In
the Indian Ocean we sudden received a message that we had to call in Aseb, a
small harbour in Ethiopia. There was no harbour; we had to stay out side along
the coast. Barges were towed by little tugs to the ship. We stayed for a couple
of days me tough. We left and proceed through the Red Sea. About half us past
the “Laagkerk” she was anchored along the coast of Saudi-Arabia. I do not
recall the name of that small port.
There
are a few little ports along the coast of the Red Sea. We called in a port in
Jordan, I do not recall which ship it was. It was Aqabah, in the Gulf of
Aqabah.
Four
country borders end up at one point. Saudi-Arabia, Jordan, Israel and Egypt.
Isreal has a port called Eliot opposite of Aqabah. We did not stay long, no
time to go ashore. We had one idiot; he was the cook or the baker. I’m not
certain. He had decided to go for a swim to Eliot in Isreal. He was a very good
swimmer, but I told him your are a bloody idiot, there many hungry sharks
waiting for a meal. But he didn’t show any attention, and dived overboard. We
were standing on deck waiting for a shark to appear for diner. Some time later
he returned. What annoyed me, if I fall overboard, I bet, there is a shark
waiting for me.
I
was lucky one day sitting outside on a plank with my feet in the water painting
the Plimsoll mark, sudden I noticed a shadow appearing on the surface of the
water. Within a few seconds I lift my legs out of the water and I stood on
deck. Be always aware that sharks has eyes, able to see you sitting just above
the surface. They would not hesitate to lift the head out of the water and
showing their teeth.
We
arrived in Suez, dropped it anchor, waiting for the convoy while waiting we
organizing the big search light. Soon we were underway to Port Said.
Arriving in Port Said we dropped it big light, we were underway to Genova and Maseille. And the next ports Antwerp and Rotterdam. 4 days later 12.2.1959 departing from Rotterdam to Bremen, Hamburg, Antwerp and London, returned to Rotterdam.
Sailors
way is not sitting at the front of mast singing sad shanties, soon we walk on a
ship work has to be done. Every sailor of all ranks has a job to do.
A
Captain is responsible for it ship, and running of it ship. The Captain has the
right to deal in all situations if it is needed. There are rules and regulation
that must be observed. Having regular inspection in cabooses, mess rooms,
cabins and make sure that everything is clean. He has to deal and take charge
in all weather conditions, be on the bridge at all times in stormy or foggy
conditions.
1st,
3nd, 3th, and 4th, officers. (Dutch Stuurman) do watch duties at sea 4 hours
during the day and 4 at night on the bridge. Keep a close eye on the navigation
instruments. The radar is one of the most important devices on a ship. Radar is
very helpful for detecting ships or landmarks along the coast and even
lighthouses in poor weather conditions. The automatic steering mechanism is an
important piece of equipment. During in use at sea, it has to stay on course.
Variations are only 2 or 3 degree out on both sides.
Charting
is also a very important responsibility for a officer. In 1950 or 1960 there were
no clever computers, all had to be done by a human computer (brain). Use a
slide and pencil to indicate the course on a chart. Most ship has a chart room
placed next to the bridge.
Officers
also have to act as a stevedore, loading and unloading ship cargoes. All
cargoes must be placed in such way, that cargoes not have to be shifted. For
instant, cargo for the first port of call not be placed on the bottom of the
ship. It would be very difficult to shift all the cargo on the top of it.
Time
keeping is crucial on a ship. Sailing around the world we have to keep up with
maritime greenwich times, based in London. While sailing around the world time
goes forwards or backwards, depending which direction you are sailing, west or
east. Sailing east time goes ahead, and west is back.
Crossing
the Pacific Ocean, about half way there is the International Date Line. Passing
that line the time goes 24 hours forwards or backwards (depending on sailing
west or east) to meet the greenwich times in London.
Officer
also has other duties to perform. Reports have to be kept up to date. All
matters have to be recorded in logbooks for evidence if it is required in later
investigations. Administering of money, used on the ship, postal charges, money
required by the crew, and so on.
1st
officer receive some training in medical proceeding. Performing simple
treatment in case of an injury, or administrate a needle. Similar to a Fist Aid
course, I guess.
Boatswain
is in charge of the deck crew (able seaman). He reports all work proceedings to
the 1st officer, who make up a programme, which task has to be done. The
boatswain must make sure all jobs have been completed satisfactory.
Ships
in the 1950 and 1960s were different then today. Ships were big with heavy
equipment. Most of that equipment was handled by hand. Majority ships had
canvas covers over the hatchway. They were very heavy, and big, depends on the
length of the hatchway. Sometimes the hatchway is opened fully; the canvas is
then rolled up and dumped on deck. In the winter make matters worse, they wet,
cold and frozen. When frozen makes it very difficult to unroll.
The
most ships in my days used pontoons to close off the hatchway. They were big
and heavy sometimes difficult to handle. We use the derrick to lift then in place.
On the top we place canvas (called presenings) to prevent sea water going in
the hatchway. Usually we use three canvas sheets. With old Liberty ships we use
beans across the hatchway, it is more work and difficult to handle. Beans go
across about a metre apart or so. They fit in a small dead end slot, resting
inside the hatchway. About 10 or more fit in a hatchway, depending of the
length of the hatchway. After that we lay wooden lieges across the beans, not
very heavy, but difficult to handle. They don’t last very long, it seems that
they split easy and break. We throw them out it is dangerous to used broken
lieges. If you walk over the top, you foot could slip in it, and you fall
through the hatchway.
In
expected weather condition or crossing oceans, we secure the hatchway by
placing extra steel bars across the pontoons or lieges, preventing the wind
(that comes through the air vents) blowing up the canvas. It is like blowing up
a balloon. The much pressure, poof, and up she blow. The same happened on a
ship with the canvas on a hatchway. When the canvas is ripped, nothing could
prevent the sea water entering the hatchway, end up with devastating result.
That is why we place covers over the air vents, in severe weather conditions to
prevent this disaster to happen.
More
important implements are the loading equipment. All ready I mentioned it
earlier in my script, how important it is to maintain the loading gear, like
anything else, after using it for a long period of time it start the wear out.
Block, wires, rope, and part needs to be replaced.
Older
ship has a few deep or balance tanks. Could be used for dry cargo, or oil, and
if it ship is empty, used as balance tank. Caution always has to be taken, by
placing the lid on the tank. It did happened in the past, not knowing that
there was some body in the tank, and placed the lid on the tank. All lids have
a manhole, and it will be a good idea to place a person there to all times
while working in the tank.
Life
boats are the most important assets on a ship. They always must be in good
condition. Regular inspection should be held in short period of times. There
are many emergency equipment and signals that should be in the life boat.
I
will reveal more about life boat later in my script.
Care
must be taken always when using steel wires. It is always recommended to wear
gloves. Use wires after a while, barbs appearing and causing bad injuries on
your hands.
Never
hold ropes to tight in your hands, while it is slide through your hand, it
causing friction, you burn your hands. If you can’t hold it, get help, or let
go.
Mooring
ropes are thick and dangerous never standing on front of a mooring rope while
berthing along side the wharf. When a mooring rope snapped, and you are
standing of the front of it, well, you could be walking on sticks, or loosing
your head.
A
steel wire we called a (spring) is average 30 to 35 millimetres thick, very
dangerous weapon. Spring is used to stop a ship moving forwards or backwards
while berthing along side the wharf. Just imagine a steel wire stopping a big
heavy ship going forwards or backwards, the weight on that wire is enormous. It
is not unusual that a wire snapped. We always keep a few turns around the
ballard to allow it slip if it is necessary to preventing breaking of the wire.
We always stand behind wires, never on front of it. If you can’t hold a wire,
let it go, never try to stop a wire of running away with your foot, that could
cause a horrified injury, you never walk again. Harbours in South Africa, Cape
Town and Durban, we use a landfast, steel wire about 50 millimetres thick.
Trying to cover it around a ballard, it is almost impossible. Cape Town and
Durban are natural harbours, and the swell is enormous large and strong, there
is not much protection to prevent this swell to enter the harbour.
A
lot of people were under the impression in Holland, being a sailor is a
romantic life, sitting in the night looking at the stars, and thinking about a
sweat heart in the next port.
I
have been asked many ridiculous questions. My Aunt asked me ones, what ships
doing at night, do they sail or dropped anchor, because it is dark and you
can’t see were you going. So I explain to her that we sail in the night. Anyway
she was a lovely lady. A person asked me when at sea, how do you know which
direction is Africa.
At
sea when you off duty there is plenty entertainment. You can sit in the mess
room, drinking a cup of coffee or tea, reading a magazine or even a book. Playing
a game of chess with you mate, or having a conversation. If you sit in your
own, well, you always are able to play with a cockroach, or you go for a walk
on deck. If you lucky, you may see a ship or you look on the other side you
could see the coast line. Maybe you see a whale or a dolphin jumping out of the
water, even a flying fish. But if you are still bored, you can go always to bed
have a sleep. If you wake up before diner then have a quick diner and it not
raining, you maybe just in time for a picture. Remember never a dull moment on
board of a ship.
Evenings
are the best part of the day. After enjoying a delicious well prepared meal, it
was time to relax, sitting on deck with a nice cool beer, informing each other
about there exciting adventures that happened during the day. Occasionally we
have an orchestra on board one is a learner guitar player, the other play the
bongo by hitting his head with the back of a spoon. Sudden the guitar player
gives a roar, and we all joined in roaring. After a sensational hour we all are
exhausted and wishing each other good night, and can’t wait till the next day,
do it all over again.
Arrived
with the “Lemsterkerk” at Rotterdam 5.3.1959, proceed to the railway station,
board the train to Amsterdam. I was only home for 5 days, left with the
“Annekerk” for a short trip along the coast. In Hamburg I met one of the
servants working on our ship. He asked me if I would have a drink with him. I
said yes, that fine with me. We sitting in a bar, I was sitting straight ahead,
facing the bar. He asked me if I would turn around a bit, he didn’t like
speaking to me side on. No problem I answered and I twist around a bit. Sudden
I felt a hand between my legs. I looked at him, and said what the bloody hell
you thing your doing. I told him, to get the hell out of here. I pushed him
away, and left. We left Hamburg for Antwerp, and back to Amsterdam again. Two
day later I was underway with the “Annekerk” to Africa. We left the wharf in
Amsterdam and proceed to the North Sea Canal to Ymuiden, through the locks,
dropped the tow line of the tug boats, in the open sea we were, to Las Palmas.
After Las palmas to Cape Town. It is a long way. I couldn’t remember how many
days.
Sailing
down the coast of West Africa to Cape Town, we crossed the equator. The
imaginary line passing round the earth midway between the poles is called the
equator. The equator measure 40.075 kilometres round.
At
the equator, the days, and nights, are always equal in length. The sun rises at
about six in the morning and sets at about six in the evenings.
While
we crossing the equator, sudden I saw an apparition appearing on the sea
surface, to my amaze it was God Neptune. We welcome the Royal Highness the God
of the Sea and his assistants on board. We were all thrilled to have him on
board. The Captain was very proud to receive the very highly respected God
Neptune on board. After a few bows and hand shakes, drinking a few glasses of
sea water (of cause the Royal Highness do not drink alcohol) it was down to business.
All sailors and passengers that cross the equator should be baptised according
to the law of God Neptune. I have crossed the equator before, but for some
reason God Neptune did not show up, perhaps he was busy somewhere else.
During
baptism sump oil was poured over your head to make you hair grow on your head,
and little glass of vinegar to clean our soul. A mix of potatoes skin, fish
guts, food left overs, paper and salt, a few more delicacy ingredient, rub on
your chest make hair grow. Unfortunately that medication does not work for
ladies. A glass of sea water to clean your stomach, and of cause it fill your
bladder, and to finish the holy ceremony a salt herring in your mouth to clean
dirty taste out of your mouth. After you have survived this very emotional
occasion, you will be released out of the stocks, and thrown in the swimming
pool, free of sins, and a clean soul.
God
Neptune carry a list with him, with all the names on it, who has been baptised.
He had a list of names of it ship “Annekerk”, 12 passengers and a few crew
members, was on his list. My name was not on his list, but he was not in a
hurry to go back in the sea, and he asked me what my name is. I told him my
name, and he answered that my name was not on the list, unfortunately I could
not lie, so he took that opportunity to baptise me.
After
the holy ceremony, every who was baptised received a certificate to show he or
she were baptised. Signed by the Royal Highness God Neptune him self. A few
more glasses of sea water, and left the ship, slide into the sea on his sea
horse, showed his trident for the last time, under the sea surface he went.
Later
when the time is near to say goodbye to your existing world, you will be
entering a new created peaceful and exciting world you will be received with
honour into the world of the Kingdom of God Neptune.
Just
use your imagination, riding on a back of a Sea Horse, having dinner with a
beautiful mermaid, sitting in a room of a sunken ship, eating a delicious meal
of seaweed, and drinking a traditional glass of seawater, stored in a sunken
cool treasure case.
According
to the tales of the ancient Greeks and Romans, the sons of the supreme god
Saturn were Jupiter, Pluto and Neptune. These brothers overthrew their father
and divided the universe among them-selves, and while Jupiter became the god of
the high heavens and Pluto of the underworld, Neptune became the god of the
seas and rivers. He rode over the waves in a chariot drawn by sea horses, while
the dolphins played about his path. In his hand he carried his powerful three
pronged spear, or trident.
It
is a old sailors tradition, and never any one will get hurt.
Arriving
at Cape Town is a wonderful sight, seeing the famous Table Mountain, notable
from a long way from the sea. Mooring along side the wharf in South Africa
ports is not easy. All ready I mentioned about the landfast they are very
difficult to handle. Every time you place a turn around the ballard, some one
must hold it down, in case the wire spring back right across your face.
Departing
from the wharf in South African ports care must be taken at all times. The big
swell from the ocean, could make it sometimes very difficult, to leave the
wharf, care must be taken to undo a landfast. Always stay on the sound side of
the ballard, and careful undo the wire of the ballard and let slide the wire
away. Next port of call was Port Elizabeth, small port 3 or 4 day sailing from
Cape Town. A mate and I decided to go for a long walk we were miles away from
it from the harbour. It was an interesting walk we had a good look around, and
enjoyed our walk. The next ports of call East London, and followed by Durban.
Durban as about the same size as Cape Town, with a long strong swell. I was at
the wheel that time entering the harbour. It was not easy to keep it ship on
course. It ship was rolling from one side to the other side. It took
considerable concentration to keep it in line. We managed to berth along side
the wharf with no problems.
We
stayed a few days, and I did some shopping. I bought a long play record of
Elvis Presley for my niece that I had promised to her.
What
happened next to me was a frightening experience.
It
was in the afternoon, it was very hot, and I decided to go for a swim. Walking
along the beach, noticed few people standing pointing their arms to the sea, at
that time. I had no idea about that commotion, I though maybe sharks, but I
could not see warnings signs, but still, you never known shark are sneaky
monsters. So I walked a few more metres, decided to put my toes in the water. I
walked deeper in the sea started to swim out, turned around, sudden I was swept
of my feet away from the beach further out in the sea. I could not swim back to
the beach, but keep disappearing deeper in the sea. I was very close to a panic
state. I saw people on the beach looking at my direction. I was very scared,
there are plenty bloody hungry shark waiting for me. South Africa is well
renowned for sharks along the beaches. Already I though that I never go to make
it. But sudden big wave from behind threw me back to the beach. I was a long
way. I never was a strong swimmer, but I did not expect this to happen to me.
The last few metres back to the beach were not difficult. I dropped on the
beach sniff the sand to make sure it was not sea water. I lay still for a
while, to recover from my ordeal. I felt
like Jonah, who was swallowed by a whale. Those people were still on the beach,
but left when I was on dry land. I got up still shaken, but in one piece, soon
I arrived on board straight to bed. When I woke up I was recovered. That
evening I found out what did happened on that beach. A Norwegian sailor has
drowned. There were sharks seen in the vicinity where we were swimming. If I
knew then, I would have change my mind going into the sea.
I
was impressed with the South African language. They speak the Dutch language,
but back to the 1600 century. That language never has changed, and still spoken
it today.
We
departed from Durban to Lourenco Marques in Mozambique.
Tug
boats in South Africa in those days were big. One of the tugs came along side,
what did happened that time, I don’t really know, but sudden I hear the Captain
of the tug shouting to our bridge, maybe to the pilot or our Captain, I was not
certain what did happened, the ship was free of the wharf, but the weight of
the tug pushed us back again along side the wharf. Anyhow, we left the harbour,
and underway to Lourenco Marques. Mozambique at the time was Portuguese. I was
very surprised to see black people and white people working side by side. Not
like the British were, British have all the top jobs.
Next
to Beira unloading and loading cargo for Europa, staying in those ports only a
few days. Dar es salaam in Tanzania next, and followed by Zanzibar and Tanga.
Good
fishing along the coast of East Africa. A few sailors had a line out. Some one
caught a fish, it was a good size fish, maybe a foot long, but the colour of
the fish did not appeal to me, and I had my doubt if it was eatable. Anyhow,
the 1st officer thought there was nothing wrong with that fish, asked the cook
to prepare it for his dinner. But a few hours later he became ill, he was not
happy at all.
I
don’t fish very often, I find it very boring, but I thought give it a go, threw
a line out, maybe I catch one. It was a thick line, with a small fish on the
hook. I left it for a while, later I checked the line, found it tight and
moving around. I pulled it in, but slowly, it was heavy. I thought it could be
a shark. When I pulled it closer to the ship, it was not a shark. I had no idea
what kind of fish it was, but is it was about a metre long. We used a net to
lift it out of the sea. The cook prepared the fish for our dinner. But no body
became ill.
In
Dar es Salaam or Zanzibar we were not along side the wharf, but in side the bay
at anchor. Cargo is brought in barges towed by tug boats. We were loading bales
of sisal in hatchway no 3. Sudden some one noticed smoke coming from one of the
bales of sisal, immediately all bales were returned in the barge. A bale of
sisal could smoulder for a long period of time before fire initiate.
The
next port Mombassa, only few hours sails from Zanzibar. Mombassa has not
changed much since I was here with the “Lieve Vrouwekerk”. We left after a
couple days, ready for the home voyage. We called in the usual port in the Red
Sea. Then proceed to the Suez Canal, into the mediterranean. We were close to
home, approximately 2 weeks away. Next port of call was marseille, next day we
were underway to Barcelone or Seville. I thought it was Seville in Southern
Spain only few hours up river. It is difficult to remember over the year, which
ports I have been over a period of five years in the Mediterranean, there are
many ports. Last port of call was La Havre in France. Next day we left, proceed
through the English Channel to the Hook of Holland.
Before
reaching Rotterdam, I washed all my dirty clothes, ready for my next voyage.
We
picked up the pilot in the Hook of Holland, few hours later we were along side
the wharf in Rotterdam. Soon after, I was on the train to Amsterdam I did not
bother to see my Mother in Rotterdam.
Most
deep sea ships needs tug boats assistant. It is very difficult and hazardous
for a big ship to try berthing along side the wharf without tugs. In strong wind
a big ship has no resistance due to a large superficial side. With a strong
wind ships are almost unable to depart from the wharf. Even with tugboats
sometimes is difficult, if you receive the wind side on, especially when a ship
is empty. A special tow line is to be used, half rope and half steel wire.
Usually 30 or 35 metres of rope and about the same length with the steel wire,
joined up with a spliced method. The rope is fed to the tug the steel wire is
kept on board and fasted on a ballard. For big ships you need powerful tug
boats to be able to move a fully loaded ship of the wharf. The pilots on the
ship always give the order when to release a tug boat. It is the pilot
responsibility to bring a ship out of the harbour in safety. A Captain never interferes
with pilot doing his duty, unless he has a specific reason to do so. For
instant, if a pilot endanger the ship. Pilot must always take control over the
ship.
First
of all, the pilot must know his port as well as he knows back of his hand. He
must be able to tell the state of the tide from a glance at a pier, buoy or
rock, or even from the colour of the water at a particular place. The feel of
the wind on his face tells him if high tide will be late or early at the
berthing place to which he is taking the, and he judges the strength of a
current from appearance of the swirls and ripples around buoys and other fixed
objects. The greatest help in keeping a ship in a narrow channel comes from
watching lighthouses, lightships, buoys, and leading marks such as church
spires and chimneys. In fog, the pilot will not be able to use these marks, but
the sounds and even the smell from waterside factories may help him. It is in
these conditions that radar can be of great value to the pilot, as the waves
sent out by the ship’s radar set are reflected off cliffs, buoys, beacons and
other ships, which appear as dots or patches of light on a screen.
At
large ports the pilots live on board a steam or motor vessel called a pilot
cutter which remains outside the entrance to the port for several weeks at a
time. Incoming ships needing a pilot tell the cutter by radio or make a signal
by hoisting particular flags or by showing special lights. The pilot cutter
then approaches the ship and lowers a small motor boat. This takes the pilot
whose turn for duty it is to the ship, which stops and lowers a rope ladder for
him to climb. His arrival is welcome as he usually brings with him papers and
letters for the ship’s company. Once on board, the pilot makes his way to the
bridge and orders the red-and-white pilot flag to be hoisted. This shows that
the ship is being guided by a pilot.
Radar
provides a means of detecting a distant object such as an aircraft or a ship
and of finding its position. It does this by giving the operator two pieces of
information; One is the bearing, or direction of the object, and the other is
the range, or distant. In addition, when directed at aircraft, radar provides a
fairly accurate estimate of the height at which the aircraft is flying. If you
stand about 300 metres from the foot of a cliff and give a shout, the sound of
your voice returns as an echo after an interval. What happens is that the sound
waves travel through the air until they hit the cliff and are then reflected
back to your ears. The further away the cliff, the longer the interval. As
sound travels in air at 34 metres a second, by timing the interval between
shout and echo with a stop-watch we can work out the distance of the cliff. If
the stop-watch registers two seconds we know that the cliff 34.5 metres away.
Holland
is world wide renowned for rescue of ships and lives on the high seas.
Holland
still today has deep sea tugs stationed whole over the world, ready to go out
at any time when it is required. These people to me are the real heroes.
Those
people put their own life in danger to rescue some one else who life is in
danger.
In
ferocious weather condition, there is no hesitation to rescue any ship and
their crew, regardless that their own life could be in danger. Those people are
dedicated to their job, and doing it with pride. When in stormy condition, I
saw a sea tug going out to rescue a ship, I always blessed their hearts, hoping
for a safe return. It is for a sailor a good feeling to have those dedicated
heroes, ready to give their lives for you.
We
departed Rotterdam in the summertime, so the weather was good the sea was
moderate all the way down to Las Palmas. I bought the two dolls, and cigarettes
to sell in South America. I always was a non-smoker, it never appealed to me.
After
bunker and taken supplies, it was off to Recife. In 1959 out side the harbour
of Recife is a wreck of a Dutch vessel, I not certain of the name, how it sunk
there, I have no idea. It is sitting on the sea bed with the two masts sticking
out of the water, was loaded with wheat.
So
far the voyage was very good, fine officers and a good crew. Our Captain was a
good gentleman, but very simple. Wearing uniforms by officers were very informal.
The 1st officer was retired, but he decided to sail one more voyage. He was in
his 70s, a fine man.
We
had only one crew member, he was absolutely a bloody animal.
Arriving
in Rio de Janeiro, I had a terrified ordeal. Along side the wharf we were
painting the hull in a raft, the raft was about 1.5 by 1.7 in size, maybe a
little bigger, but not much. Sudden I noticed two big sharks, well over two
metres long. It frightens the bloody hell out of me. I told my mate, for God
sake stand still, don’t even breathe, there are two huge sharks next to the
raft. They were only a foot away of the raft. Were swimming around the raft,
and diving underneath of the raft. We make sure that we stayed in the middle of
the raft. One came to close, he put is head out of the water next to the raft,
and gave us a big smile. I was not in the mood to smile back.
We
were unable to get of the raft, because our rope ladder was about 25 metres
away.
To
get there I loosening the back line and my mate slowly pulled the front line
across. We shouted up to the deck, but no body was there. While we pulled the
raft across, the bloody sharks came along for a ride. Sharks started to push
their nose against the raft. We could see their teeth, and their eyes pointing
to us. We were very nervous, but we kept us cool. We reached the ladder, my
mate climbed up first, I followed quickly after.
On
deck we looked down at the water, noticed the shark slowly disappearing. In the
meantime the 1st officer came to the scene, we explain our ordeal, and had no
intention to return on the raft. He told us to bring the raft back on board.
Sudden I thought about the insurance agent in Amsterdam, thinking some one miss
out to be rich.
Later
we were told by locals, it is not unusual that big sharks entering the harbour
From
Rio de Janeiro down the coast of Brazil, calling in few ports Santos, Rio
Granda, to Montevideo in Uruguay. Our boatswain was a good man, near retiring
age. Sailed during the World War II years, so I believe he was very ill during
the war, a fever struck him, and almost killed him. It happened somewhere in
West Africa.
He
was a very nervous person, but a good man. He was always keen on washing the
decks with water hoses. One day I was watching him washing the deck with a
couple other men. He was on the top end of the hose, holding it. Two other were
helping him, and using the broom. One side was finished, so he pulled the hose
to the other side. He was a very strong
man pulling the hose around the corner (could not see what the other men were
doing), they were pulling the hose back, just for a joke. They were pulling
against each other. I watched it from a distance, and couldn’t stop laughing. I
saw the boatswain face, it was totally constricted, his false teeth hanging
half out his mouth.
Well,
I understand! it was not very nice, but!, “Boys are Boys”
Some
where along the coast of Brazil, I don’t remember which port, I walked out my
cabin seeing the boatswain standing with a prostitute making a deal. How she
got on board, I have no idea. I couldn’t help me self to a smirk on my face
seeing the boatswain standing with a smile on his face from ear to ear. Seeing
a man of almost retiring age trying to screw a prostitute is very funny.
Buenos
Aires was the next port, it has not changed much since I was there. I received
a letter from the corresponding agent; it was from a girl from Amsterdam. My
sister must give the address to her, because she wouldn’t know my shipping
address. Anyhow, she wrote me, that she had an uncle living in Buenos Aires. I
can’t remember if she gave me there address, but, I wouldn’t have looked for
them anyhow.
As
usual Buenos Aires was always party time and drinking the famous rum.
The
most existing performing is the two or three naked women wrestle in the mud.
That makes your adrenaline running out of your ears.
Big
problem in Buenos Aires are the bloody taxi drivers. You must keep your hand in
your pockets. If you are pissed, you never be able to find your pockets, the
taxi driver find them before you do. Always settle the price before decided to
go for a ride. Very few drivers speak English. Since I studied Spanish, I was
able to speak it reasonable well, it was not perfect, but I was able to have a
small conversation. Always pay the correct money what you have agreed on. They
always make an excuse to let you pay more. Never pay a driver before you
reached your destination, you may find your self little short from your
destination. I mentioned earlier we had one crew who was an animal. His brain
was stored up his ass, and had moth balls in his head. He came on board one
afternoon drunk I don’t know where or how it happened. He punched the 1st
officer in his face, he received a black eye, a bloody coward he was, and he
was about 25, the 1st officer about 70. That poor man was totally distressed.
Soon we were informed who that bastard was that hit the 1st officer. We all
were waiting for his return to the ship, but he never returned. We never will
know what did happen to him. But if he did returned, we would know for certain what
will happened to him. Every one kept an eye on the gangway, in case he tried to
put a foot on the ship.
We
left Buenos Aires for Rosario and Santa Fe, higher up of the River Plata
loading cow hides and wheat, and returned to Buenos Aires again. A few days in
Buenos Aires then to Montevideo. Then along the coast of Brazil, loading coffee
and other local product, and the last place port Recife. In Recife we make sure
everything is secured for the return trip to Las Palmas, and to Las Palmas,
then a week to Rotterdam. We arrived in Rotterdam on 18.10.1959. In Rotterdam
board the train to Amsterdam. My both nieces were very pleased with the dolls,
my brother in law with the records of Spike Milligean.
Two
days later of so, I came home that night after a few drinks, maybe 9 or 10 o’
clock, not drunk, we had a young visitor. I thought she was about 18 or 19
years of age. A red headed but a good
looking girl. I had no idea who she was, I presume she had something to do with
my sister or Joke or Tonia. But soon I found out, it was that girl who wrote
that letter to Buenos Aires. I felt a bit embarrassed, not for her, but I
smelled like a beer brewery. I called my sister into the kitchen, asked her to
make me a strong black of coffee. It really took me by surprise. I had no idea
how long she has been waiting. I kept my distance, just in case she becomes
intoxicated. Anyhow, we started to have a conversation about Buenos Aires, she
told me that her uncle lives in Buenos Aires. It was getting late, so she
wished to go home. She came by bicycle, so we had to walk back to her place. I
had no intention to ride that bicycle with her sitting on the back on the
(luggage) carrier. It was a long walk, maybe an hour of so. I don’t remember.
She invited me in the house, and her mother offered me a cup of coffee. We had
a nice conversation. Sudden the girl gave me a guitar, asked me to play
something, I looked at her, and said, what makes you think that I able to play
a guitar, I couldn’t play a guitar if you twist the strings around my ears. She
said, she saw a photo of me playing a guitar. Then sudden, I realized that my
brother in law or my sister showed my photos to her. That photo with me playing
the guitar was taken on my previous ship “Annenkerk”, but that was only a fake
or fun photo. They should have known better then that. Should have explain to
her that girl that me playing a guitar is only a fake. It would have safe me a
lot of embarrassment. Later her mother
explained to me, that her age was only 15 year of age. Well I almost felt back
wards over my chair. I t was getting late, said that I was tired, and wished to
go home. I walked all the way home again, and all this for a lot of crap.
2 or 3 weeks past by, nothing much of importance did happened, I thought it is about to move on. I started looking for a ship. This time I stayed in Amsterdam, found a ship “Dahomeykust” of the Holland West Africa Line.
Sign
on the “Dahomeykust” 18.11.1959. It was a new ship, and was still in the
shipyard in Lubeck in Germany. All officers and crew assembled at the Central
railway Station in Amsterdam. It was a long train voyage, I can’t remember how
long. We arrived in Lubeck in the morning we were very tired, just sitting in
the train. We departed from the shipyard for a trail, only a few hours,
returned to the shipyard. Soon we left Lubeck to Hamburg, Bremen and Antwerp to
Amsterdam, few days in Amsterdam, and off to Dakar in West Africa. I do not
remember if we called on Las Palmas. It was a very good little vessel, about
6000 ton, if I remember. The weather was rough in the Atlantic Ocean, it was in
November. We arrived in Dakar about two weeks after we departed from Amsterdam.
In Dakar dockworkers stay on board the whole voyage along the coast of West
Africa, loading and unloading the ships cargo in every port. There are many
ports; Dakar is the first port, followed by Conakry, Freetown, Monrovia,
Abidjan, Takoradi, Accra, Tema, Lome, Cotonou, Lagos, Port Harcourt, and
Douala, Pointe-Noire, Boma, Matadi, somewhere along the coast further down.
I
had a terrible tooth ache, so of to the dentist, I thought it was in Lagos.
Anyway, his dental surgery was a shabby building. People sit and hanging around
every where.
I
walked inside, waiting for a while, eventually it was my turn, got in the
chair, opened my mouth told the man which one it was. He said, it has to come
out. I don’t know if that was true, but I said, fine with me. That bloody tooth
was hurting me for a while. He pushed a needle in my mouth, few minutes later
it was out. He did a good job. He gave me a note, I never looked at that piece
of paper, arrived back on board, gave the note to the 1st officer, and I was
ready to go back to work. But he said that I was not allowed to work for the
next 24 hours. I did not argue with that, return to shore for a few beers.
There
are many ports, and many little countries along the West Africa coast, and most
British and French Territories, the most little ports have no wharf, we dropped
anchor, and little tugs bring the cargo to the ship in barges. That is why, the
dockworkers from Dakar stay on board along the coast.
I
was the bridge man on board, my job was to do all the work on the bridge and
passenger deck, maintain, and keep it clean, steer the ship with the pilot on board.
The last port was, Douala, in Cameroon.
After
the cargo is unloaded, reload cargo for Europe, Mainly local products, and most
of them are logs. Well, the most uncomfortable cargo. They are floated down on
the river, picked out of the water on the ship, in the hatchway and on deck.
Very dangerous to walk on, and is very slippery. We secure the logs on deck
with steel wires. But often in stormy condition the logs start moving, causing
the steel wires to break. Logs fall over board, causing hazardous for other
ships. Logs could damage ships propellers.
Trying
to secure logs is a dangerous work in stormy condition. There is not much you
can do, they are very heavy. In those conditions, the Captain tried to steady
the ship as much as possible, to give us the opportunity to secure the logs. By
doing that, reduce speed, and try to keep the bow in the waves. When the logs
started to roll or slide, get the hell out of it.
One
of our dockworkers had a nasty accident he walked on a log, sudden he slipped
off a log, had one leg between the hatchway and a log, the other on the top of
a log. He sat their for a few seconds, we looked at him couldn’t see anything
wrong with him, he had his legs in a L shape, but when we got him out off that
position, its appeared that his testicles were out of place, showing out of his
scrotum. It was a horrible sight. Couple weeks later we found out he was o.k.
Anyhow it was not very nice.
We
arrived back in Dakar, dropped off the dockworkers, and we set off to home.
Through the Atlantic Ocean into the Bay of Biscay to Bordeaux in France, long
way up the river. And later we departed from Bordeaux to Le Havre to unload
several logs, and Amsterdam next.
I
was home for a few days, and then off again with “Dahomeykust” to Hamburg,
Bremen, Antwerp, loading cargo for next voyage to West Africa, including the
Congo and Angola. A mate and I decided to have a good look around in Antwerp,
take a few photos, I have been many times in Antwerp, but never had a good look
around.
Usually
in Antwerp we hang around on the wharf, because the bars are right along the
wharf. Only few minutes walk.
I
had a few Belgium beers that night, but return to the ship early. We had a
boatswain he was a big heavy man, but he was a good man. I was going to open my
cabin door, sudden a big fist flying next to my left ear over my shoulder from
behind. I knew it was the boatswain, it was his voice. My reflex in those days
was very good. I reached out to his arm, threw him over my shoulder. I almost
buckled by his weight. He rolled over my shoulder, his legs in the air landing
on his back. He said sorry, it was a joke. Maybe it was a joke, but how do I
know that. When I was a lad about 16 or 17 before I became a sailor, I was a
member of a Ju-Jutsi club in Rotterdam for a while, so it was a good practise
for me. Anyhow he was not hurt, gave him a hand to pull him back on his feet,
we both smiled, went to sleep. The next morning, the news travelled fast and
every body had a smirk on the faces.
Returned
to Amsterdam for a few days, until it ship was ready to sail again. On the day
of departure, my sister and brother in law escorted me to the ship. They stay
on board for a while, we had a few beers. But it was time to sail. My sister
and brother in law left the ship we departed from Amsterdam again to West
Africa. First port of call was I believe was Bordeaux, next port Dakar.
Arriving in Dakar, unloading some cargo, and again we picked up the dockworkers
staying with us for a few weeks. While sailing along the coast, we called in a
few ports, before sailing to the Belgium Congo, Libreville in Gabon first, next
steaming on the Congo River to Matadi.(now called Zaire). Steering a ship on
the Congo River was fun, the current was strong, and full with whirlpools, I
was at the wheel that time, I remember it well, the pilot gave me a order to
port, I turn the wheel at port, the ship listen over, it was a good feeling.
The pilot asked me if I was enjoying me self, I said yes, I really do, he just
said to me, with a grin on his face he said, just take care.
In
Matadi we had a good look around, we enjoyed a few beers, spend some time in
the swimming pool.
Yes,
I know what you thinking, is it me diving from that diving tower. Well, sorry,
I must disappoint you it is not me, that is a little bit to high for me.
After
Matadi to Luanda and Lobito, two port in Angola. Angola was Portuguese in those
days.
On
the return voyage we called in Pointe-Noire, a small port in the Congo, loading
palm-oil in our deep tanks. It was a long jetty built out into the sea. We had
a hard time mooring it ship along side of the jetty, due a heavy swell. Few
more ports of call loading local products and of cause bloody logs again.
Soon we were underway home again. Called in few more ports pick up some cargo, to Dakar, dropped off the dockworkers. Sailing back to Europe, call in couple port on the way up to Amsterdam, we arrived on 23.4.1960.
On
12.5.1960 I signed on an oil tanker “Koningwaard, with a Shipping Company,
Netherlands Steamship Company. A big shipping company with a large shipping
fleet. It was a very short trip, only 6 days of so, from Amsterdam o Stanlow
near Liverpool. For some reason I came home, but to be very honest, I have no
idea why.
I
left the ship in Stanlow, by bus or train, one of the other, to Liverpool. I
departed from Liverpool by train via Birmingham to London. Arrived in London in
the late afternoon, stayed there in a hotel at Regent Park. The next morning by
train to Harwich, and across the channel to Hook of Holland. Home few days, off
again with the “Kaap Hoorn”, on other tanker. I can’t remember were we departed
from, to the Caribbean, back to England.
Sailing
on tankers was not my cup of tea. I find sailing on tankers very boring, and
not keen on long distance sailing.
Going
on shore is very limited. You always far away from the city, 24 hours in port,
then off again. No time to get rid of your money.
The
worse job is cleaning tanks. Bloody stinking gasses make you sick. Being in a
tank for a hour, you start to sing, you feel if you are in heaven. They tell
you to come out of the tank, have fresh air, to get rid of the gasses in your
system. There has to be always a person near the tank where you working. You
are in and out the tank the whole day, climbing in, and climbing out.
With
loading oil, care must be taken by avoiding oil blow out. Tankers in the 50s
and 60s has large valves on deck, if one tank to capacity, the valve should be
closing, on other valve should be opened, by closing and opening slowly
simultaneously, otherwise the oil come out of your ears.
The
most irritable infectious symptom on a tanker is the cantankeritis syndrome.
Maybe caused by to long ocean crossings or boredom. Doing all sorts of childish
stupid games or saying and shouting all sort of funny language. Grown up
sailors playing hop scotch or even knitting your own sock. Well, this maybe a
bit exaggerated. But seriously, it is a lonely feeling in the middle of the
ocean, and nothing to do. Just imagine being in the desert, playing with a
lizard.
After crossing the ocean few time, we arrived in Thameshaven. I left it ship, return to Amsterdam by the ferry from Harwich to Hook of Holland on 28.8.1960.
It
was a relief being home from that tanker “Kaap Hoorn”. That gave me an
opportunity to rinse my brain with a few glasses of Dutch Heineken beer. It was
full with bloody crude oil and gasses.
It
was summer time, so I was outdoors most of the times, just doing my milk rounds
from bar to bar. The only problem with drinking to much milk, you have trouble
running in a straight line.
Anyhow,
I had no intention to stay home for a long period. I prefer being at sea then
sniffing on dry land.
One
morning I board a train in Amsterdam for a visit to Rotterdam. My head was
still sore from the previous night, due drinking to much milk. Those milk
rounds at night could be very tiresome. It was early in the morning, when I
left Amsterdam it was only an hour travelling to Rotterdam. Anyhow, I must have
fallen in sleep before entering the railway station in Rotterdam. A nice old
lady woke me up. Sir, she said, what is your destination, you have been
sleeping. Rotterdam I Said, well, you are in Amsterdam again, she said. I was
not happy with that at all, I thought, that was bloody stupid.
I
thank that old nice lady, left the train, stayed in Amsterdam.
After
being home for a week or so, I started to look for a ship. I called in the ship
company office inquire for a ship. A ship was available, but the man asked me if
I had something against flying, I answered no. I never had flown before, signed
on the ship “Lawak” (named after an island in Indonesia). Returned home, told
everyone about my exciting news. Usually in the afternoon I have a few beers
before my dinner. After dinner I was demonstrating how to fly an aeroplane. I
was flying in the kitchen, sudden I make a sharp turn, to avoid flying to the
window. But still not watching where I was going, flew straight into the wall,
hit my head on a corner of a panel that was fixed on the wall. My wings dropped
off. I was forced to make an emergency landing. End up sitting in a chair, with
a bloody lump above my eye, big as a chook egg.
An
inquire was conducted by the famous Sherlock Holmes, he found that the pilot
(me) was under influence of alcohol. I was severely reprimanded by the famous
detective Sherlock Holmes, but it would not effect me flying to Lisbon in
Portugal in a few days.
Hope
that the lump above my eye disappear before flying to Lisbon, it is very
difficult and embarrassing explaining to sailors the cause of that lump above
my eye.
Just
imagine explaining to my mates that I was involved in a plane crash in the
kitchen, flying against the kitchen wall, or I could try, stepped on a rake.
Few
days later I departed from Schiphol Airport in Amsterdam. It was two engine
propeller driven plane what type, don’t ask me.
Soon
we were cruising in space. I was only hoping that the pilot doesn’t make a
sharp turn, and fly straight in the kitchen wall.
Two
hours later we landed safe at Lisbon Airport, in the bus to the ship.
Soon
we departed from Lisbon underway to Port Said, passed the rock of Gibraltar into the
Mediterranean. It was summertime, and the weather was warm, the sea was calm. A
few days later or so we arrived in Port Said. We picked up the Suez Canal
search light, soon after that we were underway through Suez Canal. The same old
routine apply, going through the Suez Canal, 12 hours later we arrived in Suez,
dropped the light, we were steaming into Gulf of Suez, soon after we were in
the Red Sea. It was very hot in the Red Sea. I was wearing only my shorts doing
my work on hatch no 2, sudden I hear a voice coming from the bridge, it was the
captain, telling me to put a shirt on, I said why, it is to hot for that and to
sweaty, my shirt will stick on my skin, that is a horrible feeling. The captain
was a reasonable man, nothing more was said. As usual we called upon Port of
Aden for bunker and supplies; soon we were underway to Mombassa. We arrived in
Mombassa a week later. Stayed few day in
Mombassa, next Zanzibar, Dar es Salaam, and a few more ports along the
east-Africa coast, unloading cargo from the west coast of United States. The
last port was Beira or Durban. After unloading was completed, we moved up along
the coast of East-Africa to Mombassa again. My mate Jan and I decided go on
shore in Dar es Salaam I belief it was. We came across a cake shop, we though
it was nice to buy some cake. We enter the cake shop, bought cake, we settle
down on a seat along the river bank enjoy eating our cake. After we were
satisfied, we started walking back to the ship. Soon we were underway to
Mombassa ones again, only few hours sailing. Arriving in Mombassa Jan and I
were on night duty. In the afternoon we supposed to have a sleep, but decided
to have a look around in the town. It was very warm that day, so we thought, we
better off looking for a bar, have a
few glasses of cold beer. We found a comfortable bar, we settle down, soon we
were had companionship by two not bad looking women, just trying to be
friendly, and have a conversation. Sitting in that bar started to become
boring. The women invited us to look around in their neighbourhood. We stayed a
while, and then decided to return to the ship for a few hours sleep. Our night
duties started 8 o’clock till next morning 6 o’clock. At 8 o’clock we commencing our duty. I do not remember what
duties Jan was engaged in.
I
had deck watch, looking after the mooring ropes, gangway and few other duties.
Approximately
10 or 11 o ‘clock, that night Jan and I had a few words, sudden there was a lot
of noise among the dockworkers, shouting and whistling, running to the side of
the ship, it was a terrible commotion. At the time we were not realizing what
it was all about, but soon we comprehend what it was all about. It was the two
women we met that afternoon in the bar. Both women were well dressed and
looking very attractive. The bloody dockworkers were still making a noise, so
Jan and I had to do something very fast to stop that commotion the dockworkers
were making.
Soon
they were on board we took the women inside before the rest of the crew wakes
up. Anyway, we had no choice, to let the women in our cabin, and try to explain
that they could not stay on board, that Jan and I were on duty that night. They
carry on for a while, but eventually we said that they could sleep in our bed,
but make sure out before 6 o’clock.
By
the end of our duties they were off the ship.
We
departed from Mombassa to Port Said via a few small ports in the Red Sea. We
were loaded, including wild animals, four young giraffes, a beautiful leopard,
and some more small animals. I do not remember what kind.
The
leopard was tame, during the day it was tied up on deck (see photo).
On
the photo you see me with a bandage on my finger, don’t worry, the leopard has
not bitten me. I do not remember what did happened to my finger, but it was not
very important, I still have my finger.
It
was very interesting to have four giraffes on board, they very amusing. A
keeper or he was the owner of the animals, I do not know. The animals were well
looked after. The animals were looking very healthy, the leopard was started
feel home, and he was our mascot. The crossing from Mombassa to New York is
about two weeks sailing.
Departed
from Mombassa into the Indian Ocean, followed the Gulf of Aden, to the Port of
Aden.
The
weather was very hot for the time of year. Soon after Aden we enter the Red
Sea. I felt sorry for the giraffes, just standing on that deck, and no were to
go. Sailing through the Suez Canal to Port Said and through the Mediterranean
the weather was fine.
But
passing Gibraltar, in a few days the weather started to change. A cold wind
started to appear from the north, and the sea was getting rough. It was very uncomfortable
for the giraffes, it make them seasick.
Fortunately
the animals arrived in good health in New York.
After
we were interrogated by the American officials, and we received our invitation
for the prick parade, we were allowed to berth the ship along side the wharf.
Most
ports in America, sheds are building close to the edge of the wharf. Two or
three pontoons placed between the wharf and ship. The reason, the cargo out off
the ship, go straight in the shed without getting wet while it is raining or
snowing. Bringing the animal’s safe across from Africa to America. During
unloading of the animals, a very sad occurrence happened. One of the giraffes
escape out of the wooded crate, while transporting on a forklift in the shed,
how it that happened, we do not know at the time. Most of us were standing on
deck watching the animals put on shore.
Sudden
we saw a giraffe running out of the shed, because the ship was a few metres
away from the wharf, by the pontoons placed there, the giraffe run straight into
the icy cold water. Unfortunate a giraffe can not swim, and slowly disappeared
into the icy cold water. It was a very depressing sight to see that happening,
but we were hopeless to do something. We all were very stunted after what
occurred. The keeper or the owner, who witness the whole sage, was furious and
distorted.
Later
we found out that the forklift driver made a error of judgement. The crate must
have slipped off the fork, and the giraffe must have escape out of the crate.
Soon
we departed from New York to Curacao for bunker and supplies, few days sailing
passing the Bermuda Islands followed through the Caribbean Sea.
Few
hours in Curacao, off again to Colon, a city on the east coast of the Panama
Canal.
Going
through the Panama Canal was very interesting, and has a historical record.
From
Panama to Los Angeles, the first port on the west coast of United States.
Approximately
one week sailing from Panama, we stayed for a few days, in San Francisco. It
was a good feeling sailing underneath of the Golden Gate Bridge, it is very
high build. No change hit the bridge with the mast. There is enough space for
two ships on the top. It is a beautiful natural harbour with plenty interesting
spectacle scenery.
From
San Francisco to Portland, approximately three or four days sailing. Portland
is a long way down river called Willamette, about 12 or 14 hours sailing.
Tacoma and Seattle were the next ports, situated in an estuary full with
islands. It was interesting sailing among the islands. There always a lot of
ships about, small and large ships or fishing vessels.
The
next port was Vancouver in Canada, beautiful scenery around the Bay of
Vancouver. It is very hilly, and very cold in the winter. Vancouver was the
last port.
It
ship was empty and we started reloading for East-Africa. In Vancouver we loaded
mainly forest product, bundles of timber. From Vancouver we called on Vancouver
Island, few little ports loading more timber. The last port in Canada was
Victoria, on Vancouver Island, returning to Seattle again, Tacoma and Portland,
loading general cargo for East-Africa, again called in San Francisco and Los
Angeles, then return leg to New York.
Our
boatswain was a big strong man from Frisian, northern part of Holland. He was a
good man; we had no problems with him. One day I remember, he suffered from a
terrible stomach pain. The 1st officer was an Indonesian born Dutchman.
He
was a sort of a lunatic, but nevertheless he was o.k., he was good to us.
Anyway,
we all standing on the bow during entering a port, I do not remember which it
was, somewhere on the west coast of the United States.
The
1st officer was fooling around with the boatswain stomach, poking his finger or
hand in his stomach, he told the 1st officer to stop that, because it do hurt.
But the 1st officer could not resist to doing it again. Sudden the fist of the
boatswain flew through the air landed on the face of the 1st officer, he
stumbled on his feet, but he survived, the ordeal nothing has been said more
about the incident.
We
departed from Los Angeles to Panama. Arriving at Panama, going through the
locks is very fascinating, pulled by little locomotives through the locks.
More
about Panama Canal see the additional item.
Underway
to New York some sailors decided to shave their head. Three or four of us
running around with a head like an egg shell. By the time we return to Lisbon,
we should have enough hair on our head.
We
called in Curacao for bunker, few hours later underway again to New York.
In
the meantime Jan and I became good friends. Jan use to sail on short sea
traders. We decided when we return to Amsterdam, we will resign, and looking
for a short sea trader.
Few
days later we arrived in New York. It was the beginning of February, it was
very cold, and the sea was rough. In New York load more cargo for East-Africa.
After
a few days staying in New York, we were underway to Lisbon. Crossing the
Atlantic Ocean in the winter, most of the time the weather is very unkind.
Eventually we arrived in Lisbon. Following day we were in the plane flying to Amsterdam. Snow on the runway in Shiphol was clear visible through the plane window. Soon we landed, I called a taxi, was on my way home. During the stay home, Jan and I were meeting from time to time. Jan had a girlfriend in Apeldoorn. Jan spent some time with his girlfriend before we looking for a short sea trader. After three weeks or so, we board a train to Groningen; we were successful to sign on the “Twin” 500 ton short sea trader. Few days later after signing on, we board the “Twin” at Velsen near Amsterdam.
On
25.3.1961 Jan and I boarded the “Twin” a short sea trader (coastal ship) 500
ton, in a small port of Velsen near Ymuiden. It was a small vessel, so we had a
crew of nine. A Captain, Mate, two Engineers, four Able Seamen, and a Cook.
It
was a good looking vessel built in 1957, built in Holland in a little place
called Zuidbroek. The owner’s name P. Hendricks lives in Groningen, managed by
Carebeka. Groningen is a inland port situated in the province of the same name,
in the northern part of Holland, well known for short sea traders for many
years. Approximately 30 kilometres east of Groningen is Delfzijl, one of the
few sea ports in the northern part of Holland. It is only a small port, mainly
for short sea traders. There are many canals deep enough, running through the
province of Groningen, where little shipyards are situated. That part of
Holland is very cold in the winter it is not unusual the temperature drop 10 to
15 below zero.
Anyhow,
back to the ship “Twin”. We introduce our-selves to the Captain and the Mate.
The Mate was very pleased to have four experienced sailors, especial sailors
from the deep sea ships. We proceed to our cabins to change in our working
clothing.
Sudden
we hear a shout and noise; we run on deck, see what all entire disturbance was
all about. It was the Mate; he slipped off the stairs, and broke his bloody
leg. So we had to stay a bit longer in port, waiting for the ambulance to
arrive, and for a replacement of a next Mate. We were disappointed that it
happens it seems to us that he was a nice person. We had to wait till the next
day, before the replacement arrived.
The
next day the new Mate arrived. He was a typical northern Dutchman from
Groningen with a strong Groningen dialect.
I
had a funny feeling, this is not going to be easy sailing.
Anyway,
we departed from Velsen to Swansea in Wales. We arrived in Swansea
approximately three days later. Sailing on a short sea trader is congested
compared with a deep sea vessel.
My
feeling about the Mate was right. He was a bloody idiot, after we moored off
along the wharf in Swansea; we were going to raise the two loading derricks.
But sudden the Mate appeared on deck, start roaring out his mouth his own
lingo, with a red face, arms and legs flying in all directions. He was very
hard to understand due his dialect. Jan and I just looked to each other, then I
said to him, what is wrong with you, having a fit, in that effect. He kept on
barking, that we could not raise the derricks without his supervision. We
really got annoyed with him, told him on the big ships we have 20 to 24
derricks to rise up. We don’t need your supervision. We mentioned it to the
Captain about his outburst, but he answered not to worry about him, he is only
temporary.
Jan
and I decided go ashore for a few beers, walking back to the ship, I guess it
was about 11 o’clock at night. We were approaching a phone box with two
poofters standing inside kissing each other. We were making funny remarks about
it, but coming closer to the phone box. We were stunned; one of the poofters
was our Cook.
I
had no choice, but to believe it, I saw it with my own eyes. Two days later we
departed from Swansea, underway to Rostock in East Germany, few days sailing.
Because
the “Twin” was a short sea trader, with only nine crew members, the watch
duties were 6 hours on and 6 hours off, three people on watch.
First
watch; Mate and two able seamen, second watch; Captain and two able seamen.
I
don’t remember exactly where it was. I came on watch 2400 at night straight out
off bed half in sleep. Took over the wheel, I noticed a lot of lights coming
from the English coast, and a flash light from a lightship, (the name of that
lightship I do not remember),
I
asked the Mate, what lightship, to my surprise he could not tell me, he asked
me, I said I’m not certain which one, but I mentioned the name of that
lightship.
Anyway,
in the afternoon the Captain told us that the Mate marks the wrong lightship.
What
that idiot has done, he marked the lightship in the wrong position in the
chart.
Later
we found out that the Mate failed several times before receiving his Mate
certificate.
Two
day later we proceed through Kiel Canal to Rostock. Rostock is situated on a
small river called, Wornow, passing first a small port on the river mouth
called, Warnemunde, hour later arriving in Rostock.
Jan
and I went ashore, Jan visited Rostock sometime ago. It was a very spooky place
it was under communist regime in those days. In the 1960s economy was very poor
in East Germany. While we walked around, we kept our hands in our pocket, and
keep looking over our shoulders, because the streets were very dark. There were
only a few bars, but all behind closed doors. Jan had an idea where the bars
were situated. There were no bright lights, it was all dark outside. We opened
the door, went inside, it was full with people, man and women. It was full with
smoke, and very stuffy.
We
left that bar after staying for a while, looking for a new bar, but they were
all alike. We decided to return to the ship.
We
departed from Rostock to Norrkoping in Sweden. Again Norrkoping was situated on
a river, called Braviken, a short river.
After
we completed our work, we dressed up, posed next to the ship for a photo. Two
engineers, and me (on the right), above us standing on the bridge is the
Captain. (see photo). Thanks heaven the Mate was not in the picture, he would
have decayed the photo.
We
all started to get sick of him, it was impossible to work with that bloody
ignored good for nothing. I always wondered what ingredient he has between his
ears, what ever it was it did not work for him.
We
walked around in the town, looking for a bar, but in the Scandinavia countries
in my days there were not many bars, only restaurants, beer is only available
if you ordered a meal. We settled down in a restaurant, and we were joined by a
few nice Swedish girls.
We
had a pleasant afternoon. Swedish culture is a very open minded society, to be
able to have a conversation with anybody from growing potatoes to sex. Late
that afternoon we walked the girl’s home, we returned to the ship.
The
next morning the dockworkers started loading the ship with timber for Wismar,
again in East Germany. Couple day later we departed, underway to Wismar. In
Wismar was it similar as in Rostock. In Wismar we had enough of that ship, we
inform the Captain, we wish to resign, told him we were fed up with that idiot,
and that we don’t believe the previous Mate will return, and that dried up
jelly-fish drive us bananas.
But
he refuse to accept our resignation, it was breaking the agreement. He pointed
it out with his finger in the rules and regulation manual. We return to our
mess room, brought the manual with us, and studied it for a while, came to the
conclusion that the Captain was trying to misinform us.
We
approached the Captain again; it was our turn to point the finger in the
manual. He had no alternative, but to except our resignation. We departed from
Wismar with no destination. Sailing through the Kiel Canal into the North Sea.
During the night, Jan woke me up; inform me we were entering the port of
Delfzijl. In the morning we were notified by the Captain that we were bound for
Rotterdam. I phone my sister that we’re coming home. Arriving in Rotterdam,
guess what, the previous Mate returned to the ship. He was very disappointed to
see us go, and we realized that we made an error by handing in our resignation.
We
were replaced by four Spanish sailors.
Coming
home after my short voyage with the “Twin”, I noticed slowly the condition
began to alter in Holland. Many sailors abandoned the merchant ships.
Employment and conditions on the dry land were improving by the day. Living on
dry land seems to be more prosperous. My friend Jan informed me that his
girlfriend was expecting a baby.
But
that happened leaving the church before singing. He decided to look for
employment on dry land. Today, we still acknowledge each other, after all that
time.
I
had no choice, but to continue sailing due my agreement with the Royal Dutch
Navy that agreement expired in 1962. By now I was 25 years of age, still
uncertain of my prospect. It seems for me an uphill battle to shake off my wild
hairs. Perhaps caused by circumstances beyond my control, or maybe my like my
childhood experience. I always feel uncomfortable when at home or anywhere
else. Sit in a bar for a while, without open my mouth, except drinking my beer.
Usually after a few beers, when the alcohol takes effect, I come alive.
Drinking was still an uncontrollable habit, I was aware of that.
The
only solution for that problem is to stay at sea.
I
approach my previous company V.N.S, signed on the “Mariekerk” on 26.5.1961
voyage to India.
Soon
we departed from Rotterdam, but only a few hours from the Hook of Holland,
something unexpected happened. It was late afternoon, sitting in the mess room,
sudden we stopped dead in our tracks. We were not moving it all. I walk out on
deck, to see what it was. I could see nothing around; we were sitting on a sand
bank. High and half dry. The bow of the ship was stuck. Couple tugs arrived,
hanging around us like flies. We stayed overnight. The next day we fasten the
tugs, with high tide, I guess and managed to pull us free. We returned to
Rotterdam where divers inspected the hull. We were cleared, after a while
permission was given to depart again. Soon we were underway to try again.
We
reached the North Atlantic, and set sail to the Mediterranean. I don’t remember
which port we called in the Mediterranean. I presume we called in Genoa, and
then precede to Port Said
We
had a mix crew two Spanish sailors, those to matadors were good men. It was
fine with me it was for me an opportunity to try out my Spanish lingo.
We
had three miserable characters, (three stooges), not funny stooges, but
miserable stooges. Ringleader was worse then an Alligator, snapping at anybody
that crossed his feet.
The
boatswain was a reasonable man, and I had no dispute with him, that did not
appeal to the three stooges. They were always complaining about something,
causing friction among the rest of the crew.
Anyway
we arrived in Port Said, rigged up the Suez light, later we proceed through
Suez Canal into the Red Sea. Few days later we enter the India Ocean to Bombay.
Few
days in Bombay, off to Colombo. In Colombo we moored on the buoys, about 500
metres from the wharf, using a ferry to go ashore. Several members including
the (three stooges) decided go ashore. Some of us including me organized a trip
out to Candy and to the scene of the Bridge over the River Kwai. The outing was
organized through the Mission of Seamen. We departed from Mission of Seamen in
a little bus to Candy, passing the Adams Peak. Soon after we arrived in Candy,
looked around in Candy, visit a tea plantation. It was very interesting to see
the women picking tea. We stay for a little while, then off to the Bridge over
the River Kwai scene. After the movie was completed, the Bridge was
reconstructed for a tourism attraction. It was a brilliant project, interesting
to see. We walk over and underneath the Bridge we did not see P.O.Ws, working
on the railway line. Kept my eyes open for Japanese soldiers, they could be
hiding behind the bushes, thinking we are P.O.Ws, and still thinking the war is
not over yet. I enjoyed that visit. Not very often we had opportunity to see a
project like this.
A
few details about the movie;
Spiegel
and Lean, decided against shooting on the actual Burma/Siam location (due to
logistical and political considerations), agreed to make the movie, the Bridge
over the River Kwai in Ceylon.
The
construction of the film Bridge over the River Kwai took four months.
Film
making began on 26.11.1956 and was completed on 11.5.1957.
I
returned to the Mission of Seamen, stayed for a little while, and then proceed
to the jetty to catch the ferry. That was the most exciting event of the voyage
for me. (The three miserable stooges) were also at that time waiting for the
ferry. I had no idea what they been up to. They gave me a very dirty look, and
I had no idea if they have been drinking. I was preparing for a bloody battle,
which I most likely will loose, 1 against 3. But I convinced my-self in that
case, I will take revenge against individually at a later time. I just stood
there, kept a close eye on them, I thought if one makes a false move, well, it
will be his last. It seems that no one had the guts to fire the first bullet.
The
ferry arrived; we jumped on board, returned to the ship. Later I told the
boatswain of the situation, I replied not to worry about it, just let it dry
up, it is not worth it.
The
remaining of the voyage was routine, called in Madras, Calcutta, a few other
ports.
I
really don’t remember, but underway home we called in several ports, including
and I belief it was Casablanca. Approaching the harbour of Casablanca, the
swell was very heavy; we were rolling from side to side, returned in Rotterdam
15.10.1961.
I
was glad to be home again, what a sick voyage it was, all caused by those three
miserable stooges.
I took the first available train to Amsterdam.
After
the “Mariekerk” I was home for three weeks or so. Doing my tricks again,
wandering around the city, moving from bar to bar. I walked in my favourite
night club; met up with the boatswain of the “Mariekerk”we had a good chat
about our voyage to India, made a few jokes about the three stooges. Later we
departed, I made my own way.
I
discovered a new bar; it was a meeting place for sailors. The bar owner had
sort of crossed eyes. So he was called crossed eye Henk (Dutch schele Henky). I
enjoyed coming to that bar, you always meet old mates, and have a good old chat
about the old adventures sailor stories. Listening and chatting about sailor
stories is always having fun.
In
the meantime, I just hang around, walking through the city, occasional
shopping.
Board
a train to see Jan in a town called Apeldoorn. He was happy in his way. He was
employed with a road builder contractor. Stay a couple days, returned to
Amsterdam. In those three weeks I received a few mates. We drunk a few beers,
we had a lot of fun. I become friendly with the daughter of our neighbour up
stairs. She was a nice girl, 18 years of age or so. We were sitting at home,
just having a bit of fun or chatting, that was all. I was home for three weeks;
it was time to move on again. Conditions were changing; there was a big influx
of Spanish matadors coming to Holland, overloading the Dutch ships. More Dutch
sailors leaving the merchants ships. All replaced by matadors, even Turks or
Arabs. Some companies hire only matadors or Turks because those blowflies
(Australian Fly) never causing any problems, they making good money compare in
their own country. After I completed my Spanish language course, I resume with
the France language course. I may be handy to speak a foreign lingo.
I
resigned again from V.N.S., approached my previous company Steam-Navigation
Netherlands. Sign on the “Nias” (named after an island in Indonesia) on
9.11-.1961.
I
still had a few days before departing.
It
was a three months voyage to West-Africa. I was hoping for a long voyage, but
not available at that moment. Since the influx of matadors, it was more
difficult to find employment on ships. It seems to be that the matadors taken
over from the good old Dutch sailors.
We
departed from Amsterdam underway to Dakar, proceeding through the English
Channel into the Atlantic Ocean, sailing down the coast of Europe, approaching
the Islands of Las Palmas, onwards to Daker. We arrived in Dakar about ten days
after we departed from Amsterdam.
“Nias”
was build in the U.S.A. During the war, it is a type of Liberty Ship.
We
were on charter for the Holland West Africa Line Again in Dakar we picked up
the dock workers; precede along the coast, called in the usual ports. From Dakar to Conokry, Freetown, Monrovia, and
further to Accra, Lome, Lagos, and few more small ports.
On
the return voyage load local goods and logs. We had logs on deck all over. I
mentioned before, logs are slippery and dangerous. Securing logs on deck is a
lousy job.
Before
placing the logs on deck, first lying wires or chain across the deck. After
they were loaded, using turn bugles to tie the wires (see photo me sitting on
it). Wires or chains does not guaranty the logs will stay in place. In stormy
condition wires or chain could snap like a match stick. Logs on the move on deck
could course severe damage.
The
boatswain and I were securing logs, sudden the turn bugle gave way, I jumped
out of the way, but the boatswain slipped ass
over head, he was o.k. except for a sore ass for a while He was very
annoyed with that turn bugle, that he threw it overboard, so that we never have
to use it again.
The
Atlantic Ocean was not very kind to us, but hoping the logs stay where they
were.
We called in European harbours; before entering Amsterdam on 4.2.1962.
Staying
home approximately one week after arriving with the “Nias”, signed on the
“Banggai”. Voyage of six months around the world with the opportunity to stay
for a year or even longer. It was my intention to make a long voyage. I had
enough to hang around Holland, and to get away from home, I’m more relax at
sea. It was my way of life. We departed from Schiphol Airport by plane to
Malta.
I
was seeing off by my Sister, nieces, and the girl from the neighbour upstairs.
This voyage will conclude my agreement with the Royal Dutch Navy. My six year
came to an end, I was a freeman again. It was February so it was still cold,
arriving in Malta two hours later in the Mediterranean, the weather was very
warm. Arriving on board, we introduce our-self to the remaining crew that
stayed on board. Soon we departed from Malta underway to Port Said.
It
was a good looking ship, around 9.000 ton, with very good accommodation, with
single cabin, and very good dinning room, all situated on the stern of the
ship.
The
“Banggai” was a large ship, 18 loading derricks. The midship was built up high.
We arrived in Port Said a few days later; stayed a few hours, give us time to
rig up the Suez light. We received some mail (but not for me). I send mail to
my sister and the girl upstairs. Later we proceed through the Suez Canal.
Dropped anchor in the Bitter Lake for a while, so that the convoy from the
opposite way could pass and proceed to Port Said. Few hours later we lifted it anchor, proceed
to Suez, lowered the Suez light in the water, a little tug moved it away, we
proceeded through the Gulf of Suez, into the Red Sea to the Port of Aden.
Weather was hot during the day, but at night it was very cool. In the Red Sea
we rigged up the swimming pool on deck. That was a good relief against the hot
weather.
In
Aden we stayed few hours for bunker and supplies. As usual the merchantmen come
along side the ship, trying to make business.
We
departed from Aden to Karachi and along the Indian coast.
First
through the Gulf of Aden, followed into the unpredictable Indian Ocean. High
waves were rolling over deck. I was hit by a big wave, during re-securing deck
cargo, I was brushed off my feet, ass over head, but I was o.k. We arrived in
Karachi after a rough crossing, after unloading and loading we moved on along
the Indian coast to Bombay, Colombo, Madras to Calcutta.
I
received mail from home, and one letter from the girl upstairs. She wrote in
the letter that our friendship came to an end, bla bla bla. It did not take
long for me to work out who was behind this, but anyhow, it was not a great
deal for me.
In
some ports we had to use the heavy derrick. That was always my favourite trade.
Arriving
in Calcutta we unload the remaining cargo, and move in it dry dock for a
haircut and shave. Sitting in a dry dock is very uncomfortable. You not allowed
using shower or toilets. Because that would be not very nice for the
dockworkers below, unless they think it is a blessing from heaven. After couple
days in dry dock we moved back to the wharf to load cargo for several
countries, Hong-Kong, Japan and South America.
During
the stay in Calcutta tailors come on board making trousers or shirts for a
reasonable price. One tailor made a bed quilt and curtains to hang on the port
hole, so I had a nice cabin to live in. Calcutta was improved a little bit; it
seems the city looking a bit cleaner since I saw it the last time. But the
river has not changed, it was still dirty.
Animals
or even human bodies are still floating in the water. Inside the city was it a
bit better, but the animals still running wild every where through the city.
Prostitution was still high, still living in high buildings projects or moving
around in bars.
The
cargo we loaded were local products, mainly empty bags compressed in big bales,
the bags are made of jute (fibre from bark of Asian plants).
So
far the voyage was good, officers and crew, we all got on well with each other.
We
had a few passengers. Total of about 40, officers and crew, and 12 passengers.
We
had an old bike on board had a lot of fun with it. Riding on deck with three
people sitting on it, all great fun.
After
a week in Calcutta we departed to Singapore, about five or six days sailing. In
the Strait of Malacca that night. I was at the lookout, it must to been 11 or
12 o’clock, sudden we reduce speed, made an about turn to port. I was at the
lookout and was unable to leave my post. I notice few men lowered the life
boat, later I was relieved of my duty.
The
story was; a steward decided to jump overboard, with his life jacked on. The
motive of it, I don’t know. He was very lucky to be found. The sea was calm.
Also he was found very quickly. Our Captain was not impressed with the
commotion, and he give the man an one way plane ticket home. Soon we arrived in
Singapore, stayed overnight in Singapore, loading and unloading some cargo.
Also we bunker and took on supplies. And again we were underway to Hong-Kong,
about 5 days steaming. The sea was reasonable good, we had no problem.
Soon
we dropped it anchor, the Golden Girls came on board, looking for handsome
sailors for an enjoyable sociable outing. We only stayed for a day or so, soon
we departed to Japan. Approximately four or five days sailing, first port Kobe,
Nagoya and Yokohama. In Japan I experience hilarious dilemma. I never forget, I
believe it was in Kobe, I decided to go ashore with a few mates. That Japanese
beer started to work. I don’t know why or how, but I become separated from my
mates. I started to wandering around, trying to find my mates again, looking in
every bar that I saw around.
Eventually
I notice a little bar and decided to have a look inside. Not knowing that
bloody bar had a sliding door. I presume it was a normal door. So I reached for
the door knob, and of cause, I was still stepping forwards, my head flew
through the glass door. It was a small bar, but everybody jumped in the air
wondering what was happening. I had no idea that my mates were in that bar
also. I only noticed them when I walked in the bar. The two barmaids came
running to me, and had a good look at my head. But astonished there were no
cuts on my head, except one drop of blood on my finger. Everybody was amazed
that I did not cut my self. Anyhow, I settle down, continue to drink with my
mates and a few Japanese women till in the morning, and returned to the ship,
living happy after all.
That
morning the news travels quickly. It was the headlines for the next few days.
Departing
from Kobe to Nagoya, only short distance sailing. Next port after Nagoya is
Yokohama. Sailing along the coast of Japan is a busy coastline; there are many
ships and many islands and fishing boats. Fishing boats could be a very
hazardous for merchant ship, fishing nets could tangle with the ships
propeller. Seas along the Japanese coat line could be very rough at times.
It
happened in one of the Japanese ports, we were working in shelterdeck, and the
dockworkers were a deck below us unloading cargo. We were preparing for cargo
to be loaded in shelterdeck. It was about lounge time for the dockworker. The
dockworkers in Japan wearing helmets.
Anyhow,
some dockworkers left their helmets behind; started to climb up the ladder for
lounge. But one of us had a bright idea, he evacuate his bowels in one of the
helmets. I can’t remember what time of day it was, it must to been around
midday. We all thought it was a good idea, just have some fun. He climb down
the ladder, picked up one of the helmets, and let it rip, place the helmet
where it was, he came up, and we all were waiting impatiently for the next
event to happened.
We
had not to wait for very long, the dockworkers started to return to work.
We
all had an innocent look on our face, when that poor man found his helmet,
well, did he looked bewildered to found a Dutch souvenir in his helmet.
Stood
for a few seconds staring at his helmet surrounded by his almost uncontrollable
laughing colleagues.
Eventually
he settle down, gave us a preposterous look. Removed his helmet away to a place
away were they working, resumed with his work.
We
were standing on shelter deck watching the whole hilarious performance, an
event that I remembered a long time after.
Well,
maybe you may think, it was not a nice thing to do, but we were young lads,
always creating a different outlook in our young lives, we were never hurting
anybody in a physical way with our adventurous activities.
Yokohama
is the last port before crossing the Pacific Ocean. The Pacific Ocean is the
largest ocean on earth. The crossing from Yokohame to Valparaiso was
approximately five weeks. It is a very lonely ocean. There are many ships in
the Pacific, but because of the size of the Pacific ships are out of vision,
the only islands in sight were the Hawaiian Islands. Life on board during the
crossing was simple, just doing our routine work.
Pacific
Ocean was reasonable calm, we were well loaded, so there was not much movement.
Social life of duty was very simple, sleeping, playing cards or simple hang
around. I experience an amusing event, and I don’t remember where it was. It
was sometime during the voyage. I was sitting on the toilet, just doing my
human disposal, the toilets had swing doors, two of my mates come through the
main door, one off them walk in my cubicle not knowing I was occupied it. He
was speaking to his mate, and his face was turned around, not looking what was
in the front of him, while he stepped ahead, he pulled his dick out his pants,
I waited a second, than I reached out my hand, grabbed his dick, he sudden gave
a big roar, and he realized that I was sitting on the toilet. That was the
headlines of the day. In the meantime we were crossing the Pacific, passing mid
Islands and Hawaiian Islands, they were in sight, but a long way out on port
side.
After
passing Hawaiian Islands to the Valparaiso, we passed the Easter Islands.
Eventually
we arrived in Valparaiso, only a moderate harbour. It is an inlet to Santiago.
It
was my first time in Chilli. We stayed there a few days. After being at sea for
approximately five weeks, we could no conceal our desire to go ashore, and let
it all out. It was a good feeling to put our flippers on dry land. It was in
May, so the weather in Chilli was not so bad. My first glass of beer (cerveza)
tasted like an angel pissing on my tongue. The bars and hotel were open 24
hours a day. We were sure that we made the most of it. There were prostitutes
buzzing around us. With my Spanish language, I had no problem with
communications. Not many speak English in South America.
After
being in Valparaiso, for two or three days, most sailors were satisfied with
their outstanding enjoyable adventure; it was time to move on. Next port was
Callao in Peru. I don’t remember much of Callao; we did no stay very long, and
moved on to Guayaqui in Ecuador. Before entering Guayaquil, we sail through a
small estuary, followed by a small channel. We stayed only for a short time,
and I had no intention to go ashore.
Next
port Buenaventura in Colombia, only a small port. Mooring along a wharf is not
always easy, strong wind or strong current could make it sometimes difficult.
At one time I was hit by a heave line, is a line with a (what we call a Turkey
knot) round knot, in side we place a ball bearing or an old nut, to make it
heavy, and throw it like a lasso. The turkey knot is thrown to the wharf; the
other end is to be tied on the mooring rope.
The
mooring men pull the rope towards the wharf, and throw the loop of the rope
over the ballard on the wharf. The mooring men undo the line of the rope and
throw the line back to the ship.
Anyway,
I most has been day dreaming, sudden I felt a blow on the back of my head, I
almost felt ass over head, for a few seconds I saw the complete constellation
appearing front of my eyes. Anyhow, I recovered quickly of that unpleasant
incident.
After
we moored the ship along the wharf, we had to raise the loading derricks. I was
wearing a very nice leader jacket, it was a very expensive jacket, and I was
very fond of it, I bought it in Amsterdam before I board the “Banggai” in
Malta.
But
I took my jacket off, in case I damaged it, and hung it on a door handle. I
knew it was a very stupid thing to do, but I was not thinking at the time, I
forgot the jacket, later I remembered but it was late. One bloody Colombian
terrorist stole my jacket. At the time I was wishing that the bastard would
strangle his balls while he climbed off the gangway. I was very upset for a
while, to loose my favourite jacket.
In
Buenaventura we stayed there for two days or so. It was a good place for
sailors to have fun. I spent most of the time on shore enjoying me-self in the
highest spiritual adventure. But all good times come to an end.
Buenaventura
was the last port on the sailor’s paradise in South America. Soon we were
underway to Panama, two or three days sailing from Buenaventura. Then through
Panama Canal to Colon in the Caribbean Sea to New York. During the crossing to
New York, 1st officer come along with a list, asking everyone if they wish to
go on leave when arriving in Malta, I had no intention to go on leave, decided
to stay on board for an other voyage around the world. Arriving in New York was
in August, the Atlantic Ocean was kind to us. In New York, history repeat it
self again, the American officials come on board, asking the same questions
time over again, and prick inspection.
Doctors
involved in this practice must suffer from nightmares, looking at every
variegated drum stick. For the first or second time, I could see the humour in
it, but after repeatedly experiencing this phenomenon become a monotonous.
Departing from New York after a few days, we were underway to Malta. Crossing
the Atlantic Ocean was good, only wishing that I was allowed to stay on board
for a voyage around the world.
Few days before arriving at Malta, my dream came through, my request
was granted, I and was allowed to stay on board, to do it all over again.
So
I was underway with my second voyage around the world. It was identical as the
1st voyage. Departed from Malta with a few new officers and crew members. Again
we were underway to Port Said, arrived there few days later. The Captain
requested only four experience sailors to steer the ship through Suez Canal;
that was including me.
It
was not so bad, one hour on and four off, it was a long day, but we arrived in
Suez with no problem. Dropped it Suez search light, and were off into Gulf of
Suez, followed by the Red Sea. It was about September, and the Indian Ocean was
not so rough, we arrived in Karachi, started unloading part of the cargo. In
Karachi I decided to purchase a few chickens; that were kept on poop deck,
above the dinning room. We thought perhaps we may catch a few eggs, but that
was not to be. They became sick, and chopped the head, threw it to the sharks.
Anyhow,
sailing down along the coast of India, unloaded and load cargo for other
countries.
Eventually
we were again in Calcutta. In Calcutta we organize a football match, I do not
remember against what ship, it could has been an English ship, I’m not certain.
We
enjoyed that, it was fun.
Again
in Calcutta I decided to go on shore again, but nothing had changed.
We
Loaded jute bags for South America and Cuba.
Soon
we were underway to Kuala Lumpar or Penang. We had a young lad on board, maybe
15 or 16, I’m not sure about his age, but I noticed for a while, and there was
something wrong mentally. He was acting queer. But by the time we reached the
Strait of Malacca, he was getting worse. We did not what to think of him.
Was
it an act, to make an excuse to go home? I don’t know.
Anyway,
way arrived in one of those ports in the Strait of Malacca, dropped it anchor.
The
Captain decided to have a life boat drill, we lowered the life boat, and few of
us in the life boat, and start rowing a few hundred metres out of the ship.
We
returned to the ship, after an hour or so, ready for the next crew.
After
the drill, we left the life boat in the water for a later time, to be brought
back on board. The sea was calm at the time, but the wind started to blow, and
became stronger by the minute. The sea started get choppy, and the Captain
decided to bring the life boat on board. But it happened that fast, by the time
we were prepared, the wind was blowing hard.
Even
it ship started to roll fierce. Three of us jumped into the life boat including
the 2nd officer to make an attempt to attached the hooks of the life boat on
the blocks to hoist the life boat back on board where it belongs, but it was
almost impossible, it ship and the life boat were bouncing like two randy
gorillas on a waterbed. I almost felt out, lucky my leg slipped under a rowing
seat.
Anyhow,
after several attempts we managed to slide the hooks of the life boat into the
blocks. Slowly we started to rise out of the water. But in the meantime we
noticed the behaviour of the 2nd officer was out of order, his voice was
incoherent, he was showing signs of hysterical outbursts. There was very little
what we could do, only just keep a eye on him, by trying to constrain him in a
situation like this in a confined space, could end up with serious consequence.
It was a slow process, the life boat swing in and out; due it ship was rolling
in the waves.
So
I mentioned early in the fragment, the midship structure was built up high. By
the time we had the life boat level with the life boat deck, the 2nd officer
was totally out of control, he was profusely foaming from his mouth.
Unfortunately
the 2nd officer did not recover from his ordeal, was send home with that young
lad that I mentioned little earlier in the script.
Both
were returned to Holland by plane from Singapore, for safety concern they were
escorted by a medical assistant.
From
Singapore we proceed to Hong Kong. In Hong-Kong we stayed for a short while,
(made sure that the Golden Girls were of the Ship) next off to Japan. Arriving
in Kobe, after few days sailing from Hong-Kong, three sailors decided to go on
shore on the old push bike, but it ended up in a disaster, it was going
smoothly on the flat deck, but trying going down the gangway, well that was
catastrophic, there were arms and legs
flying in all directions. By the end reaching the bottom of the gangway, there
was a pail up of bodies, and the bike on top. You wouldn’t know which arm or
legs belong to whom, to our amazement nobody was seriously injured. Well that
happened when you drive under influents of alcohol. In Yokohama it was it was
my turn, a few of us bought a couple bottles of Japanese whisky, it was on
departure day. We all had a few glasses of famous Japanese whisky, my head
started to spin around, my feet started to vibrate. I’m not a whisky drinking
or any other strong alcohol drinks, except rum and coca cola from time to time.
I was only a beer drinker.
That
night we departed from Yokohama, it was my turn to steer it ship out of the
harbour, but I was told by my colleague it is better that I stay on deck, and
he will take the wheel, bring it ship out the harbour. I agreed to that, but
sometime later, I looked around, could see no light or anything else, with the
thought that we were in the open water.
I
precede to the bridge, relief my mate off the wheel. In the meantime I started
to sober up a little, but after straining my eyes, I notice we were only in the
outer harbour with the pilot still on board, but anyway, there were no
problems, dropped off the pilot, the automatic steering mechanism was
installed.
I
proceeded to the chartroom, but then a funny thing happened, walked in the
chartroom, picked up the coffee kettle to make fresh coffee, the walked back to
the bridge, what occur next, I walked one way to the doorway, but from the
other side, the old man appeared, we had a collision, unfortunately some coffee
remain in the kettle from the previous time, when ever that was. The coffee
kettle slipped out of my hand, old coffee grounds all over his nice white
uniform.
He
was of cause not very impressed, but then he noticed that I have been drinking,
he said you are drunk, I replied a comment, but I do not remember what it was.
Anyway,
nothing more was mentioned about this incident.
After
Japan we were again underway to Valparaiso, nothing did happened out off order
during the crossing of the Pacific Ocean, after about five weeks we reached
Valparaiso.
It
was a repeat performance of the previous voyage. Everyone enjoyed a good time.
We departed few days later to San Antonia, only few hours sailing south of
Valparaiso. Some sailors boarded a bus to Valparaiso, and returned the next
morning. I decided to stay on board for a little relaxation.
Soon
we departed to the next port, and I believe it was Guayaquil, again staying a
short while, next off to Buenaventura. Arriving at Buenaventura I had no
intention to go on shore, plus I had night duties to perform, and not much
money in my pocket. That day the dockworkers worked till 11 o’clock that night,
the 3rd officer was also on duty, mentioned to me that he would like to have a
look around on shore, but his pockets were also empty, ask me if I had some
spare money, I said no.
But
I bought a binocular in Japan for the purpose of selling in South America.
Anyhow,
I made a good profit, gave 3rd officer some money, after 11 o’clock we were
down gangway. On shore we move different directions. I visited a couple bars,
started wandering around the town, found the 3rd officer sitting in a little
bar with a few women, nothing wrong with that of cause. Anyhow, I left it to
that find my own way.
The
next morning I saw him walking on deck, asked him if he had enjoyed his night
out, he answered, I stayed with the women just listening to the music.
I
just look at him with a funny smirk on my face, but I said no more. We
approached Panama; and proceed through Panama Canal to Cuba.
It
was somewhere along the coast of South America, I have no recollection where it
was. Two sailors had a difference in an opinion, no idea why. Anyhow, I was
sitting in my cabin quiet reading a book or a magazine, sudden I was disturbed
by noise and shouting. I run out my cabin see what the commotion was all about,
I saw two men fighting, but it was over very quickly, one was crawling on his
knees looking for something. That poor lad works in the engine room, but
unfortunately he had one eye, the other eye was covered with an artificial eye.
During that fight the artificial eye came out his eye socket, dropped on the
floor. Well perhaps it is not funny, but I thought it was hilarious to see
someone crawling in circles looking for an artificial eye.
Crew
working in the room are allowed to work with an eye defect or wear glasses.
(sailors working on deck must have good eye sight)
Arriving
in Havana in Cuba was new to me, I never visited Cuba before. So I decided go
on shore, have a look. I had pesos and some American Dollars in my pocket.
Approaching the harbour gate, we were stopped, quested about money we were
carrying. We were not allowed to bring American dollar into the country.
Anyway,
we proceeded to the city looking for bars, of cause soon we discovered few
bars, settle down drinking Cuban beer. Soon we had company by women. There were
plenty of prostitutes hanging around everywhere. One was sitting next to my,
she was an over weight hippopotamus and a face to match, a big pair of water melons
to rest her head on. (Well perhaps an exaggeration), but she was a big women.
She had large fat lips, I would not attempt to kiss her, and she would swallow
me in whole.
Well,
enough criticism. We were enjoying our-selves till early in the morning, with
good Latin music, drinking rum and coca cola or beer, and having a good Galah
conversation.
(Galah
an Australian cockatoo)
Some
sailors found their sweat heart, it was love at sight. I was not much impress
with my sweat heart, returned to the ship.
Two
days later we departed and we were underway to New York. Few days later, some
sailors received more what they bargain for their sweat hearts gave them a
memorable Cuban memorabilia.
During
the crossing again the 1st officer appeared with a list regarding going on
leave at Malta. My intention was to stay on board, but that request not
granted.
The
maximum weight we were allowed in the plane at Malta was approximately 20
kilos.
We
had to pack up some belongings to be dispatch by ship from New York to Amsterdam.
My suitcase was nicely wrapped up in a sugar bag to protect it getting damage.
I had a few packets of cigarettes lying around, I wrapped them up in black
paper, opened the back of my little radio, insert the cigarettes in the radio.
In the radio it was impossible to detect. I never had smoked, but occasional I
buy cigarettes only for business.
At
the arrival in New York the weather was very cold; it was in January frost and
snow all over the place. After all cleared by the port authorities, we were
allowed to berth along the wharf. In New York we done some shopping, had a good
look around, returned to the ship, stay indoors where it was warm, except for
work.
We
departed few days later to Halifax in Canada. At the arrival at Halifax few
days later, believe me it was very cold, snow was laying on the wharf about
metres high at some areas. But the worse had to come. Unfortunately we had to
use the heavy derrick. We have not use the heavy derrick since we left India,
and not expecting to use it in Halifax, so we removed everything off the heavy
derrick, stored it in the lockets. There was not time to worry about it, but
just do the job.
I
was told by the boatswain with some body else up in the top of the mast. It was
that cold, I was wearing two pair of pants, and two jumpers and a jacket, two
pair of gloves, lying on the top of the heavy derrick, (about 0.70 in diameter)
on my belly trying to insert a bold through the heavy blocks. My mate stood a
metre below to assist me. After a little while, I saw people looking through a
porthole on the front of the bridge. They were two passengers we picked up in
New York. Standing there with cups of coffee in there hand looking at us, in a
sort of teasing way.
Well
I’m not writing down what I thought of that, I leave that to your imagination.
After
slow progress due the cold weather the task was completed, ready to be used.
After
accomplishing what we had to done brought the heavy derrick home against the
mast, stripped it partly, retain the big blocks on the heavy derrick.
Secure
all the loose material, so that we have no problem during the crossing of the
Atlantic Ocean. Next day we departed for the last leg to Malta, approximately
one week sailing. One day after departing from Halifax, the weather started to
deteriorate, it got rough, ship started to roll fierce. Due it ship was moving
around, something came undone at the top of the mast. It had to be fixed before
something serious was going too happened. So the finger was pointed at me
again, told to have a look what the problem is. So I was underway to the top of
the mast, when I reached the top, o, dear, I used my legs, arms and my teeth to
hang on.
The
captain was very helpful trying to keep it ship steady.
One
second I look down saw the deck, next second I was staring at the wild waves. I
fixed the problem fast, had no hesitation to go down.
The
remaining of the crossing past smoothly, we arrived in Malta 26.2.1963.
Soon
I was high and dry in the plane home, arriving at Schiphol in Amsterdam. There
was little snow around, but very old.
Looking
back to this ship, it was my most enjoyable and adventures voyage I ever had
experienced. Officers and crew were outstanding in there duties, we had a very
good relationship.
We
experience few misfortunes among the crew, but they were not serious.
Even
today when I look back, my head start spinning around, and see a photo of the
“Banggai” my heart bleed.
Being
home for a week or so, I made inquire about my suitcase, that I sent from New
York. The suitcase had arrived, I proceed to the wharf where that suitcase was,
but I unable to bring it home, without a declaration by the customs. I had to
wait for a short while before customs officer turned up. He opened the locker;
I reached out the pick up my suitcase. But he was demanding that I open my
suitcase. I informed him there is nothing unusual in my suitcase, except my
working cloths and some other rubbish. But he was determined, so I had no
choice but to open it. I was little annoyed with that, my suitcase was nicely done
up.
Anyway,
I did what he required, it was in his rights. Being in a big harbour shed, and
there were plenty people hanging around, so there were a few people started to
gathering around just being a nuisance, and sticky beck.
I
felt very embarrassed, and uneasy. He was only a young lad, but tries to be
smart.
He
had his hands in my suitcase, pulling all my cloths in a heap. By that time I
started to get angry, told him to cut that out. He found that little carton box
with my radio in it. He shouts out; I found it, just what I thought. I said
what did you found, that is my old little radio, I had that for a few years,
and of cause the people standing around had their eyes pointed at me. I
thought, if you try to make a fool out of me, I will do that like wise.
Anyhow,
he opens that little box, but noticed only my little radio. I said to him, you
see, I told you the truth; there was nothing in that suitcase. But what
happened next, he was getting shitty, and threw half of my cloths out my
suitcase, at that point, I said you, bastard, you put that back the way you
found it. I also say thank you to the bloody spectators being a nosy mob of
hyenas.
I
picked up my suitcase, called a taxi, I was underway home.
1962
was the end of my agreement with the Royal Dutch Navy, I was a freeman.
I
found an advertisement for a job in Germany for the German Railway.
I
applied and was successful, few days later I was on the bus to Germany, a small
place called Bad nieder Brightzichg ? It was a nice little town build in the
hills along the railway line. We were accommodated in hotels. It was very nice
scenery, it was in March, and thus the weather was cool. Working on the railway
was not my cup of tea. Working with a shovel the whole day moving stones
between railway sleepers that were too much for me, after being at sea for a
few years. Six weeks later, I was back in Amsterdam. I decided to having
driving lessons, after a few weeks I had my test, no problems with my written test, but my practical
was not good enough, I had no choice, had it do it all over again.
I
was employed as a construction painter in Amsterdam. It was not the job I wish
to do in future employment, but I was doing something for the time being, until
I found a job that would has satisfied me. Painting or re-painting bridges in
the city area mainly small bridges over the canals. Occasionally a bigger
bridge over a motorway.
Periodically
we were offered a cup of coffee by residents living nearby. Since I started
working on dry land, it was not easy to adjust to a hustling and an inquisitive
civilization. The work was done by a private contractor, working for the
metropolitan council. The whole day we had an inspector of the council looking
over our shoulder, which was something I was not use to it. In the meantime,
getting use to my new environment at home was an adventure. They were elderly
people, and it seems that they were very kind to me, but it was only early
days, I just had to wait what was coming to me.
He
was a disabled pensioner, had difficulties moving around on his legs, could
walk only short distances. She was a small slim build lady and seemed to have
a, good personality.
During
the week I stayed home, but on the week ends was it party time. My drinking
over the last few year at that time has lessen, only on the week-ends looking
for old sailing mates in my favourite bar, (crossed eye Hanky).
After
a few weeks I started to settle down in my new environment. Because of the
landlords disability it was difficult for him to walk his dog, except only for
a short distance, I agreed with him I would walk his dog after dinner.
We
started to get use to each other, and we got along very well. Being on dry land
for a while, I stared to get restless. I missed my freedom that I was use to on
the ships, and not having a boss looking over my shoulder all the time. But I
was trying not to worry about it. Again I fail for my drivers’ license. But I
was not very concern about it, there is always a better time. After a few
months working on dry land, I started to feel the pressure upon me. Listening
to my mates in my local bar, expressing their adventurous events on the high
seas, it started to run my blood thin, I had no hesitation to return to my
beloved ships on the high seas.
I
handed over my resignation to my employer; inform my land lady my intention to
returning to my old job.
I
could see her disappointment in her eyes, but she promises me to take care of
my few belonging I left behind. My belonging were ship models, book cabinet
with books.
I
approached a shipping company, called Steam Company Vinke in Amsterdam. Signed
on it ship “Witmarsum”, a Company with a few ships. A voyage for approximately
two months to the Gulf of Mexico.
I
departed from Amsterdam to Antwerp by bus.
We
sailed from Antwerp to Mobile, the first port in the United States, stayed a
day or two, then off to New Orleans, steaming on the famous Mississippi river.
A interesting city, passing underneath a few bridges, most impressive, after a few
day in New Orleans to Baton Rouge, a long way up the river. Mississippi is a
large and long river, and the weather was very hot, unloading cargo from
Europe. We had one crew member, he was a young lad, but the only problem with
him, he had nothing between his ears. He was a big mouth, and thought when he
roars, everybody was scared. I gave him the nick name Tarzan. He was pestering
most of us, but we never took any notice of him, just left him in his dream
world.
After
the Mississippi port, it was off to Houston, passing Galveston through a small
canal. Couple days in Houston, again we were underway to Corpus Christi, only a
small port, the last port was Brownville next to the border off Mexico.
All
ports were close together, only two days sailing at most. In my previous part
II I mentioned that my little finger started to bend, well what happened next,
while fixing a loading block, standing on a ladder or box, I can’t remember, I
slipped off that ladder or box felt flat on my face, with the bolt still in my
hand. I hit the deck with my finger between the bolt and deck, for a little
while I was sitting on deck, blood spurting out my finger, pronouncing all the
words in the devil’s bible. I visited the nearest doctor, trying to put it
together again.
I
had a week off or so, resting with my arm in a sling.
Brownville is build along the river Rio Grande. The river is the border between the United States and Mexico. We departed from Brownville back to Houston, New Orleans, loading mainly cotton for Europe. Last port Mobile, loading more cargo, and we were underway to Amsterdam, arrived there on 17.10.1963.
Arriving
at Amsterdam with the “Witmarsum”, I had no idea what to expect. I was not
certain if I was able to return to my new boarding house. My land lady
(preferred to be called aunt Great) had knowledge that I was coming home. She
was notified by the shipping office.
Anyway,
I knocked on the door, seconds later it opened, I shouted it was me, started to
climb the stairway, enter the kitchen, I was cordial received and I was
embraced by aunt Great. She told me there was always a bed for me available.
Being home for a week or so, I decided to see a doctor about my little finger.
Sometime
later I was admitted into the hospital. During the stay in the hospital aunt
Great visited me a few times, I was very grateful for that. Also my friend Jan
and his wife visited me in the hospital, we had a good chat.
After
a week I was discharged with my arm in a sling. I was out of work for about six
weeks. I bought a bouquet of flowers for aunt Great out of appreciation for
visiting me in the hospital.
But
unfortunately the operation was no very successful; soon it started to bend
again.
A
bend finger is called, Dupuytren contraction, cause is unknown.
While
I was doing nothing, I boarded a train to Rotterdam called in my mother’s
house. I have not seen her for a long time, I was asking about my brother, how
he was.
I
told her that I was in the hospital for a week, but sudden she flew to my
throat. I said what is wrong with you, why you are shouting at me for.
She
said, I knew it that would happen. Happening what your silly woman, I said. I
was getting annoyed with her.
Of
cause I knew what she was thinking about. I told her that I was in the hospital
for an operation on my hand. I showed her my hand; it had still a bandage on
it. I told her not to come to any conclusions, if you have no idea what the
reason is.
She
bought a very expensive parrot, especial ordered from Brazil. She told me to watch
my language, because those parrot copy everything you said. She always said I
have no money. But buying a parrot for that prize, well you must have something
in the old sock.
Anyway,
I had enough arguing with her, I walked out of the door, it was around November
1963.
(I
never saw my mother again until when I return to Holland in 1977 with my family
for a holiday. We found her lying in bed, in a geriatric condition and maybe
with a kind of mental disorder. That was the last time I saw my mother. She died
in 1982.)
Anyhow,
I had nothing more to say, and walked out the door. I stayed in Rotterdam
looking for old bars, I visited in the old days, but things have changed, some
bars did no more exist. I consumed a few beers from at variance bars, returned
to Amsterdam, it was also my last time that I visited Rotterdam.
Since
I came home with the “Witmarsum” I spend most of the time home, for
approximately four months.
I
was not very happy with my operation on my hand, my little finger started to
bend already after four months.
I
thought it was about time that I return to the sea.
I
approached an shipping company called Reedery Amstredam. I signed on it ship
“Amstelsluis” on 21.2-.1964. Departed soon after by plane from Rotterdam to an
air force base in Hull, and through to London. I do not know why first to hull,
it had something to do with the customs service I believe.
From
London we departed to Glasgow in Scotland. After Scotland, I’m certain we
sailed to Buenos Aires, Rosario and San Nicolas, loading wheat.
On
the way to South America, we had to build dividing wall for the full length of
the ship in the hatches, preventing the cargo of wheat to shift to one side to
the other side.
My
re-collection of this voyage is a little conjectured, I believe we were underway
to China. I do not remember the name of the port. Unloading wheat in my days in
China was very primitive; all done by shovel and canvas slings. There were
approximately 40 or 50 dockworkers in a hatch shovelling all day or night. Most
women on the shore walk around with little brooms sweeping up all the wheat
that was spilled over the railway wagons. It could take up to two weeks
unloading a big ship.
We
were free to go on shore, but there was little to do.
Going
to the mission of seamen or organizing a football match, playing against other
ships. Most of the time we remain on board playing cards or hang around picking
our nose.
After
the ship was unloaded we moved to a port in China, called Dairen, for a load of
soybeans for Copenhagen in Denmark.
Soon
we were underway to Europe, voyage of about four weeks.
Arriving
in Copenhagen, that was very interesting, before entering the harbour, we
passing through a narrow canal, almost in the centre of the city. It was in
August, summer time in Europe. Going through a bridge, all traffic and
pedestrians were waiting for the open bridge. They were only a few metres away.
We
were looking through our binocular to have a good look at the girls.
Anyway, we stayed a few days in Copenhagen, returned to Amsterdam. It was time it ship had a haircut and shave.
After
coming home with the “Amstelsluis”, I was home for approximately two months.
Was not certain what to do, I was thinking a change in my life. I had a very
nice place to stay, Aunt Great was a wonderful person, She looked after my
money while I was at sea, everything was written down in a little note book, to
the last cent, never a cent missing.
I
asked her a few times, where were you years ago. She was like a mother to me. I
was looking for a good job on dry land, but it was not very easy for me. I was
28 years of age, it was time for me to settle down. Soon I had to make up my
mind. It will be very difficult to make that decision.
Anyhow,
I had decided to make one more voyage to make sure that my finance was sound.
I
signed on the “Amstelstad”, a ship of the same company on 22.10.1964. I do not
remember the port of departure. Few crew members I already knew from the
previous ship “Amstelsluis”.
I
had my old job back again, deck storeman.
It
was back to South America again loading wheat for China. First port of was San
Nicolas, a small port on the River Plata. In San Nicolas we boarded a bus to
Rosario, only a hour away. We enjoy our-selves before the long haul to China
approximately seven or eight weeks sailing. We stayed in the hotel, about four
of us till the next morning. But in the morning I became separated from my
mates. Maybe they mix up with the rooms we were staying.
I
called a taxi, inquire the fares to San Nicolas, it was a long way from
Rosario, I do not remember how much it was,
Anyhow,
I could not believe my luck, at the arrival on the wharf, the ship was about to
sail, the gangway was already half up. The taxi driver was arguing with me about
the taxi fares, he was shouting for more money, I told him I have no more. They
lowered the gangway down again, and I jumped on board. We were off to Buenos
Aires.
Two
days later or so, we were off to Durban in South Africa for bunker and supply a
voyage of about three or four weeks.
During
the crossing from Buenos Aires to Durban, I was making a little ship model,
just something to do killing my boredom. I had a few beers that day, but not
drunk, working with a wood chisel, but that bloody thing slipped straight in my
left hand, a big cut, blood everywhere. I still have the scar on my left hand.
We
only stayed a few hours in Durban, soon we were off again to Singapore, a three
weeks or so. In Singapore again only a few hours, and off to China, ten days
sailing or so. The Port of call in China was Tientsin or Dairen, I do not
remember.
There
was also a ship of the same company in port; it was the “Amstelhof”, a big bulk
carrier full with wheat from Australia.
Soon
the dockworkers started to unload it ship. I visit the Mission of Seamen,
bought a few stamps for my stamp collection. We also bought a bottle of
alcohol; we had no idea what it was. (I still do not remember). Anyway, we
emptied the bottle, I jumped in bed.
The
next morning I was sick, and when I got up, O’ dear, what a mess, well, I think
it is better to forget the rest, you would not like to read this.
After
it ship was unloaded, we were off to Geraldton in Western Australia. A voyage
of ten or 12 days.
We
arrived in the second week of January 1964, it was very hot.
It
was my first foot print on Australian soil. That day in the afternoon, I
decided to go for a walk on shore. I walk in the main street of town called
Marine Terrace.
Walk
in a pub called Shamrock, it was a shameful place, full with drunks and
aborigines. I did not stay very long. Started to walk in the main street,
ordered a nice Australian steak, it was a nice meal. After a while, I was still
hungry, decided to order my second meal.
I
returned to the ship, had a good rest.
My
mate bought a little parrot in China; it was in a little cage. Often we open
it, and let the bird fly around in the cabin. That day I enter my cabin, not
thinking about that little bird, open the porthole. Later my mate said to me,
you open the porthole, and the little bird flew out. I felt not very happy
about; I could be in trouble, about strict condition on wild life in Australia.
I felt terrible, and I started to look around for that little bird. I find it,
but I do not remember if the bird flew back again through the porthole back
inside again, or I caught it.
The
next morning doing my job, I was sitting in a deckhouse, with a box with bolts
on my knees trying to sort them out, the captain and the first officer came
along, (the captain was a Indonesian born Dutchman), asking what I was doing, I
told him what I was doing, it is my job, but he disagreed, and told me I should
work on deck like the other men. The boatswain was trying to the captain that
it was his job to look after the ship stores, but it was in vain.
I
was very annoyed with it, but I had no choice, just to obey my order. The next
day or so, we left for Fremantle. At the arrival in Fremantle in the morning, I
had a appointment with a dentist, about nine or ten 0’ clock. After I visited
the dentist, I had no intention returning to the ship.
The
taxi driver that brought me back to the ship, after seeing the dentist, I
explained to him my intention to remain in Australia, and I asked him if he
would pick my up at midday, and if it was o.k. that I put a little suitcase in
the car boot, he said that was no problem. On board I collect my suitcase,
gathered a few belongings, while I was doing this, an other lad came along
asking me what I was doing, I told him, he said I come with you. It was not my
idea that he came along with me, he was not a very popular person. The taxi
arrived in time, we said goodbye to the boatswain, shake hands, and we run down
the gangway to the waiting taxi. The taxi driver put the suitcases in the boot;
off we were to a hotel in the main street. We booked in for a week or so,
waiting for the ship to move out of the harbour.
Next
day we sneaked out the hotel looking of it ship had left the harbour. But it
was still inside the harbour. We stayed in the hotel keeping us undercover,
just in case some one was looking for us. Soon it ship departed out of the
harbour, we were looking for work. We approached the Commonwealth Employment
Officer, explained the situation, and that we looking for work. The officer in
charge told us to return in the afternoon about 3 o’clock. We were a bit
concern, thinking if he would inform the Emigration Officer, but that was not
the case. We stared working the next day, filling bags with wheat, for about 14
pound a week.
Few
days a week we visited the Mission of Seamen, once a week there was a dance
night, I never was a good dancer, I was not very fond of dancing, I never was.
But my mate was a keen dancer, and he met a girl, she came from a Dutch family.
He told her our story, and she invited us at her place in Medina, a small place
just out Freemantle. Her uncle was a manager of the Bradfort Insolation, we met
him, and he offered us a job in Collie, about 200 kilometres south of Perth,
building a power station.
We
were offered a empty house were we could stay. We accepted that job, week later
or so, he transported us to Collie. We worked there for about six months, till
the job was scaled down to only few men.
In
the meantime found a private boarding house. Collie was a small coal mining
town, so we spent de most time in the Collie Coal Mining Social Club.
There
were a few Dutch families living in Collie, but I had little much to do with
them.
One
of the Dutch families offered to let me drive in his car, just how to drive on
the left side of the road. I had no Australia drivers licence at the time. I
had enough money saved up for a deposit for a new car.
One
son of a Dutch family I knew came with me to a car dealer in Collie, and I
bought a new Ford Cortina. It cost me about 900 Pounds in those days. We proceeded
to the police station, I received my licence within 10 minutes, around the
block, no question asked. At first thought, I most have done something wrong,
but no the police officer handed over the driver licence. My mate (his name was
Hans) he became a good friend with a young Dutch lad, about his age. He was
related to the family whom lives in Madina, and also to the manager of that
job. His name was also Hans. He was a Dutch born Canadian. I called them “Hans
Brothers”. He was only in Australia on a temporary visa.
It
did not worried me, my mate Hans was not a nice person, he was very arrogant
and a bully.
Anyhow,
our job came to an end, I found work with the (then called SEC) Electricity
Board only for a short period. Soon I found a better job, working for Riley
Dodds, as a rigger, they had the contract to build the power station. It was
dangerous work, but the money was good, working high up on the steel
construction, about 200 feet up in the air.
In
the meantime “The Hans Brothers” moved to Broome and Derby in the far north
Kimberley’s in Western Australia. I never saw my mate again, (except the Dutch
Canadian lad, I met him again when I returned to Australia in 1966 in Derby).
At
that time we were staying with a Dutch family, but I was not happy, she was a
funny person. One night I switched on the light, but it was still almost dark,
I said to the lady, what is wrong with the light, she said, a 60 watt globe use
to much power, I replaced it with a 40 watt globe.
Soon
I returned to my previous boarding house, and I remain there.
My
luck runs out near Christmas time that year in 1965. On my annual leave, I was
underway to Geraldton, driving my car near Pinjarra, not far south of Perth,
farmers or some body were back burning the side off the road, I reduced speed,
but sudden I hit a car on the front of me. I had a strong feeling; he was
stopped in the middle of the road. We argued about it for a while, but he
strongly denied it.
Anyhow,
he had a bloody tow bar, and that causing problem with my radiator. I was
unable to drive any further; my car was towed to Perth.
In
the next couple of days, I was thinking what to do, I had decided
to see the Australian Migration Authorities in Perth. They were very
helpful to me, even asked if I was married, in that case I had a change to stay
in Australia, but I was not very keen to say yes. I was sent to Freemantle
Detention Centre. At the centre, I was well looked after, and everything was
nice and clean, and the staff were very helpful.
During
my stay in the centre, I wrote a letter to Mr. W.H. Balt, living at that time
in Collie (later moved to Albany, W.A.) asking him if he would keep up my
payment of my car. I trusted him with my money to look after it, which he
certainly executed. I was told by the Emigration that the procedure would take
only about three months. I was very
thankful to him when I returned to Australia in 1966
After
few days in the Detention Centre, I was flown to Albany with a detective as
company. He was a nice person, and we had a good chat.
His
superior recommended him to put me in hand-cuffs, but he refused saying it is
unnecessary and it ridiculous, I was only a deserter. At the arrival at the
Albany police station, I was put in a cell for about 2 days or so, until my
ship was ready to sail.
There
were a few aborigines being held in the lock-up, they were allowed to run
around in the compound. My cell door was locked all the time. I was asked to
give my money and my watch, also to take my shoe laces out, but I refused, and
said, over my dead body.
Anyhow,
nothing more was said about it. The next day I was let out my cell, put in a
courtyard, surrounded with iron bars. It was stinking hot that day, and there
was no fresh air blowing through it.
It
was in the morning, about 9 or 10 o’clock. It was a few hours later a officer
walk in, he asked me how long I was here, I told him, it seems to me he was not
very impress with that, he let me out, told me that I was free to walk around
in the compound. My cell door was open all day; I had a opportunity to speak to
the aborigines.
The
meals were terrible, but there was not much I could do about it.
After three days or so, I was put in a police van, and brought to the ship, which sailed soon after when I was put on board. It was my previous ship “Amstelsluis”, underway to Abadan in Iraq, with a load of wheat.
Leaving
the port of Albany, I was looking to the wharf, watching the two police
officers standing there seeing me off, it was a funny sight.
I
was asked to see the captain; he told me that the ship is underway to the
Persian Gulf, but not certain that the crew will fly home. In that case, he
told me, I had no choice, but to stay on board, and proceed to South America,
which I had no intention for.
I
receive no pay, had to work my own passage home.
So
if I had to go South America, I demanded to be paid my normal salary.
Anyhow,
the captain said we will worry about if that will occur. He was a reasonable
man; I could work two hours overtime a day, so I would have some money at the
arrival in Amsterdam.
Nothing
much did happen on board; it was a quiet crossing to the Persian Gulf.
The
boatswain was a young person, perhaps 30 years of age.
He
was not very popular with the rest of the crew, but I had not much to do with
him, except to give me work to do.
Only
one incident I remember, there was a broken wire, it had to be spliced, because
it ship called in Australian ports, it had to be done according to the
Australian safety rules.
They
have there own way of splicing wires.
The
boatswain ordered a lad to splice that wire; unfortunately that lad had no
knowledge about that type of splice. That type of splice is not common outside
Australian territory.
That
person asked me if I was able to assist him, I said yes, I have performed that
splice before, while I was assisting him with the wire, the boatswain noticed
what was going on, he said a few nasty words to that man, telling him that he
should know how to splice that wire, it is a part of your job. I found the
outburst of the boatswain very unfair, but there was nothing what I could say.
Few
days before entering the Persian Gulf, captain told that whole crew will be
flown home. Day after arrival in Abadan, we were in the bus underway to the
airport we all were sitting quiet in our seats, sudden some body shouted to the
bus driver, get back on the road. Apparently the bus driver felt as sleep while
driving the bus. He was driving on the wrong side of the road.
We
boarded the plane in the afternoon, it was a British plane BEA, and it was a
viscount plane, very comfortable.
We
arrived at the Schiphol Airport in Amsterdam about midnight. Walking out of the
plane into the terminal, a person from the company office was waiting for us
with the money, I approached him told him that I worked two hours overtime, so
that I had some money to go home or stay somewhere else, but he refused to pay
me the money, just because I was a deserter, had no right to receive money, I
told him something that I rather not repeat that in my writing. Lucky the
captain was behind me, I inform the captain about his attitude towards me
regarding being a deserter.
Anyhow,
the captain said to me, I will have a few words with him, make sure you get
your money.
Before
leaving the airport, I had a very pleasant surprise waiting for me, it was Aunt
Great, with no hesitation, I put my arms around her, told her how astounding it
was to see you so late that night.
Coming
home, even Uncle Fer could not hide his emotion, how glad he was to see me
again.
Sitting
on the table that night, drinking a good cup of coffee, they were very curious
to hear my adventure in Australia. The next day I did not wasted any time to
visit the Dutch Emigration Authorities, I try to explain my situation, but they
were already informed by Australian Emigration Authority. But inform me, that I
had to stay in Holland for two year, before returning to Australia. Like hell I
said, I wish to return to Australia as soon as possible, not in two years.
Aunt
Great looked after my money that I left behind when I signed on the
“Amstelstad”. I forgot all about that money when I was in Australia. That proof
what a wonderful lady Aunt Great was.
After
a few days, I called in the shipping company office to collect my final
payment, it was more then I expected I was quite happy with it, decided to have
a few weeks rest. In those few weeks I was wandering around the city of
Amsterdam, just looking if could find old sailing mates.
I
paid a visit to Hans parents, whom was still in Australia, they asked me why
did I not stay with him, I explain to them that we were old enough to look
after our-selves and decided to move on.
Few
weeks later, I thought it was a good idea if I look for a job; I was not certain
how long it would take before I will return to Australia, and it would keep me
off the street or bars. I found a job as a dockworker for a while. The money
was good, but the work was not easy. I had to work shift, starting in the
afternoon to 3 o’clock at night.
It
was still winter, and very cold.
Aunt
Great had a brother in law leaving with her as well, he’s wife died, and was an
invalid, but he had still an old push bike, told me that I could use it. During
the day was not so bad, but at night the weather was very cold on a push bike
in the open spaces, and that icy wind blowing in your face is not funny. But as
usual, Aunt Great was very kind to me, she looked after me to make sure I had
good meals, and always available if I needed her.
In
the meantime I visited the emigration office, making inquiries, if there was
any progress regarding Australia, but it appeared to me that they were not in a
hurry. After three months or so, I wrote a letter to Mr. H. Balt in Collie, to
stop paying my car payments, my money in Australia started to run out.
An
two more months later, and still nothing happened. Again I called upon the
Emigration office. But told me the same story, it will take time.
It
was a good move that I found a job for a while, that money came very handy.
Since
I arrived home from Australia, I have had no contact with my family; I believe
that they had no knowledge of my situation.
In
the beginning of July, I receive a lump sum of money, my superannuation, it was
not so high I thought it would be. I handed over my resignation; I had enough
money to take off a couple of months.
My
departure to Australia was near.
With
my Australian driving licence, I was able to rent a car; I hired a car for a
week or so, enjoying driving around the country. Underway to a place called Den
Helder, in the northern part of North Holland, I picked up two girls asking for
a ride to Den Helder, I had no hesitation to stop the car, gave the girl a ride
to Den Helder. Den Helder is a naval base for the Dutch Navy. Always been busy
and very interesting things to see.
We
had a good look around in Den Helder, later we returned to Amsterdam.
It
was very difficult to find a parking place near your house, often you have to
park your car two streets away, and that was of cause not funny. The next day I
visited my friend Jan in Appeldoorn, a place two hours drive from Amsterdam, he
was very surprise to see me. In Appeldoorn I had a little mishap with my car,
while I was driving very slow, at the same time I was studying the road map, not
looking where I was going, I hit a bloody lamp post. The damaged was very
minimal, only a small push in the front bumper.
It
was summer, the weather was warm. Aunt Great and Uncle Fer had relatives who
live a holiday house in a place called Hiversum, not far from Amsterdam.
While
I had a car, I thought it would be a good idea to take Aunt Great and Uncle Far
to Hilversum. They were very pleased with that idea, the next morning we off,
only an hour drive or so.
While
we were enjoying our outing, a bush fire started, everybody was running to try
to stop the bush fire. One lad told me to pick up a shovel and run to the bush
fire, but I was not in the mood for that. I was only a visitor, and I was
wearing my good trousers and shirt. On the way home, the traffic was slow;
there were many cars on the road returning to Amsterdam.
Aunt
Great and Uncle Fer were very grateful to me for taking them to Hiversum.
By
this time it was almost the end of July, sudden I had the biggest surprise in my
life. I do not remember were it was, but I was called into an office, it had
something to do with paying my mother maintenance payments. I was ordered to
pay fl 300 about $ 150,
Australia.
It was not much, the man told me this law was abolished a few years ago, but I
still own that money to my mother or Dutch Government, I never did asked the
man.
Anyway,
I asked him why is it always that I have to pay; I have two brothers and a
sister. But then he said something, which was very interesting, he told me that
my brother in law has paid his share of that money, also fl 300. I looked at
the man, asked him, were did he found that money; he never had that money in
his life. Fl 300 in those days was a lot of money. I said when that money was
paid. He looks in the records, told the date when he paid that money. It was
the time that my money was missing from my wallet in the ward robe. I told that
man that was my missing money; he paid his share from my money. He asked me if
I would lay charges against, but I said no, let it dry up.
I
approached the Emigration for the last time, inquire for the final details. But
that clown I was talking to said you will be on the next available ship to
Australia, and that is in October. I said, like hell, there plenty airplanes
flying to Australia, put my on a plane. But he was not certain, I lost my
patience with him, said, I wish to speak
to an Australian Official, few minutes later an Australian Official approached
me, I explain my situation, he told me to wait for a few minutes, then he
return to tell me that I will be flying to Australia next weeks. I was very
grateful to him; I had no hesitation to show him my appreciation to that
gentleman.
Soon
I was home, told Aunt Great and Uncle Fer the good news. I was exciting,
started to pack up a few things, including my stamps collection. I had no
intention to leave them behind.
I
had not much clothes to be pack up, they were damaged on the ship. My remaining
clothes that that I left behind, was stored in a locked, somewhere on the ship,
but I was told the ship had water damaged, and that my suitcase was damaged.
Anyway,
I thought, nothing could get wrong now, but I was wrong, I received a letter or
a telegram, I do not remember what it was, two or three days before departure,
tax office told me that they will cancel my plane ticket to Australia, if I do
not pay that tax. I was furious, tore to the tax office, with steam coming from
my ears, told them why telling me that only two or three days before I leaving
the country. They made up an excuse; it was of cause not their fault. But the
most ridiculous part, it was only fl 20, about $ 10 Australia dollars. After
this incident, I had only three of four days before departing to Australia.
Thinking what would be next.
But
nothing more did happened in the last few days
On
8.8.1966 in the afternoon I said goodbye to uncle Fer, he was looking sad to
seeing me going away. I told him how a nice person he is, and I will never
forget you.
Mr.
G. Willemsen, a relative of Aunt Great, brought Aunt Great and me to Schiphol
Airport in Amsterdam.
But
now I was facing a very emotional moment, I had to say to Aunt Great, it was
painful moment for me, to me she was my mother, she looked after me, nothing
was to much for her.
My
plane was waiting, I had to go. I put my arms around Aunt Great, kiss her
goodbye, I looked in her eyes, and noticed a tear running down her cheeks. I
shake hands with Mr. G. Willemsen, turned around walked to the waiting plane.
(
I saw Aunt Great and uncle Fer again in 1977 while on holiday in Holland with
my family, paid a visit to Mr. G. Willemsen)
(In
1989 I return to Holland again for a holiday with my son Nevin. He was 10 years
of age, visited Joke and Tonia, my brothers, including my friend Jan, living in
Borculo).
(Janet
travelled to Holland and England in 1990 for a holiday)
I
arrived at Sydney airport the next day 24 hour flying via Manila.
In
Sydney I boarded a plane for Perth via Adelaide, and arrived in Perth late that
afternoon.
It
was my second foot print on Australia soil.
A
country that I wish to stay in.
Before
returning to Collie, I travelled to Albany to see Mr. W. Balt, thanking him for
the service he provided for me, collected the money remaining money.
Returned
to Collie, I was offered my job again.
Two
months later I received a cheque of fl 300 from the Dutch tax office, after
paying first fl 20.
I
was ready for my new adventure.
Joe Slikboer, Elizabeth North, SA
16 June 2006