FINAL TRIP VNS TUG UPESI FROM MOMBASA TO AMSTERDAM

25^TH SEPTEMBER - 2^ND NOVEMBER 1960

As reported in the last issue of “VNS Nieuws” the coastal service of the Holland Africa Line in East Africa was partly suspended on the 1^st August 1960. That part applied to the tug Upesi and 8 sea lighters.

Three of the eight lighters were to remain in service with the coaster Tayari.  However the whole (Upesi) fleet was laid up in Mombasa and soon afterwards five were sold locally.  We started to dismantle and conserve the tug and finally the funnel was covered as well. The “Upesi” was now “dead”. Very sad!  

The Chief-Officer and two Engineers left for Holland and the local crew either were pensioned or paid off. Especially for the older ones this must have been a heartbreaking experience although they did not show it. 

Bahidja Penda, boss’un and lighter expert with more than 30 years of service on several of the H.A.L. tugs – “kwaheri Bwana” – a last handshake and there he went, a square figure as ever there was one.

 Old, shrivelled up, tiny sailor Kassim Akida, quartermaster Hela Sudi – farewell chaps, we hope you can get used to life on your shamba (garden) with your mweli (ship) on which you have roved the seas!

Our “Upesi”, our yacht, laid up in such well-known surroundings, looked exceptionally depressing. Therefore everybody involved felt a lot better when during the second half of August orders came to make the ship ready for sea again for a voyage to Amsterdam as soon as possible.  

Fairly soon a European crew arrived per “Arendskerk” and shortly afterwards by air my previous chief-officer Pettinga , chief-engineer Stam and the second engineer van Mieghem. They had all sailed in the ship before.

Great re-union! Soon it was all hands on deck again! Take away the funnel cover – Start up electricity and running water! Back to normal!  

Total crew: Captain and two deck officers, 2 engineers, 2 sailors, 2 greasers and a cook. As the ship was specially designed for the Tropics with a crew of 4 Dutch officers and about 20 Africans, their mess room was converted to the cabin for the 2^nd officer. The precious crew accommodation forehead became accommodation for the rest of the crew. All other spaces were made watertight and securely locked.

Before we could start the voyage quite a lot of things still had to be organised. Re-rig the ship, dry dock and cleaning. Check the engines. Our only navigation instrument, the echo sounder, had given up the ghost last February. It had been checked a number of times without results. More was the pity they did not manage to repair it now either. No options! We had to go without!  

On the 25^th September 1960, everything was ship shape. Bunkers, water and stores engine trials and compass checked.  

When we said goodbye to Mombasa the next day it was with very mixed feelings. On the one hand with a tear and heavy heart that after such a long time and end had come to a way of life. The pleasant cooperation between shore and ship! All over!. On the other hand relief that the doing nothing time, was over.  

A last drink on board the “Upesi”, the final speech, last greetings from the signal station and the telegraph rang – stand by – anchor up, full ahead! Destination Amsterdam Holland.

At sea we straight away experienced a South Easterly with fairly high waves. As we came closer to Cape Gardafui the wind went South and increased – wind force 6-7 but all from astern and plenty of current with us as well. We went like a train.  

Unfortunately we experienced some delays at the beginning because some main bearings of the port engine packed up. But generally speaking the first stretch went fairly well. The crew got used to the movements of the vessel and also to the fact that because of our low freeboard it happened very frequently that a playful wave swept the deck which gave everybody a drenching.  

But everything and everybody bore themselves splendidly. Even the cook managed to produce some hot food after a few days!  

Beautiful weather in the Gulf of Aden and after six days we entered our first port of call: Aden. Beautiful peace and quietness. No more pitching and rolling. The sailors who were work four hour watches on and off, which in heavy seas is very hard work, must have looked forward toward this respite. Although they did not let up, they were relived as much as possible by the officers.

After 1 ½ days in Aden we left again, actually quite happy to leave this hot oven behind us. We had high expectations of the next stretch to Port Said. Too high … it turned out, because instead of nice weather, after passing Perim we got a stiff breeze from ahead which made our tiny Upesi jump and dance again.  

The Gulf of Suez gave us storm from the North with very short waves causing us to sail more under than on top of the water. We looked enviously at the huge super tankers who only showed a white moustache at their bow whilst we walked on the small bridge with Wellington boots because water come through every nook and granny of doors and windows.

Six days after Aden we finally anchored in the roads of Suez and we sailed through the Suez Canal on Sunday the 11^th of October behind a convoy of large ships to Port Said. There we took on bunkers, stores and we checked the engines. Having finished that, we left in high spirits for the long stretch to Gibraltar, about 2000 miles = 3.500 kms!  

Unfortunately………….between Port Said and Damiette both engine started to run progressively slower until in the end they stopped altogether. Inspection revealed that the bunkers taken on at Port Said contained a large amount of water which even our trusty “RUSTONS” could not stomach. Fortunately we had only bunkered into the Port tank so that we could use the Starboard tank fuel to get back to Port Said. Having arrived there, a couple of cross words were exchanged. (understatement of the year!) The diluted fuel was returned and replaced by fresh diesel after which we re-started the trip.

Until Malta the weather remain reasonable although the head wind was unsteady. One watch across from Port , the next watch cross from Starboard.  

With our radio-telephone (we did not have a proper radio station) we kept in touch with K.N.S.M. coasters when we could exchange news about the weather. After Cape Bon the trouble started again! Westerlies of up to force 9, huge waves from the North North West. To prevent damage we had to reduce speed considerably. The main deck was out of bounds by the overcoming seas, the steering gear astern unreachable and a trip to the galley virtually impossible if not suicidal.  

Taking on a couple of tins Verkade’s emergency rations on the bridge proved to be a God’s send. Although not very tasty or appetising, they were kept us going very well.

After a few days the wind subsided turning to the North East, so that we could pick up speed again. Half a day from Gibraltar we saw a Greek ship floating at night. Unmaneuverable! Although we sail towards him and offered our “assistance” they were not inclined to let us tow them! Pity because he was exactly our size. Not too large. A K.N.S.M. coaster who was anchored with engine trouble close to the Spanish coast, was not enamoured by our offer of service!  

After nine days at sea we finally arrived at Gibraltar. Some small repairs, gasoil and stores and at long lost an wonderful opportunity to stretch our legs. Wet clothing and bedding dried and everything stowed and kegged anew.

With an excellent weather forecast we left on Sunday the 18^th October and everything went fine until………….Cape St Vincent. Upon arriving we met a stiff Northerly which got stronger and stronger with seas doing the same. Bring in the Wellington Boots and emergency rations!  

Laboriously we plodded on past Lisbon and the Burlings but the weather got worse and worse. At Finisterre with poor forecasts for the Bay of Biscaye we decided to temporarily look for shelter behind the peninsula of Finisterre. Upon arrival we found a beautiful shelter against Northerlies with a good anchorage suitable for ships of any draft. Here we stayed listening constantly to weather forecasts, eating well at last. When we got news that the weather may be clearing so that we could reach Amsterdam in between two depressions, we departed.

After a wildish Bay of Biscaye but reasonable Channel we finally arrived in Amsterdam on the 2^nd November 1960 where Directors and Inspectors presented the crew with a very pleasant surprise.  

Now that the “very special” and also last trip of the tug “Upesi” in VNS service is some time ago again. I would like to thank my crew through this medium for their excellent cooperation during this voyage.

by Theo Smit

Donated by Anton Jansen 26 November 2004.