Nedlloyd
(who worked for me for 38 years) is a conglomeration of Dutch shipping
companies who after the first world war pooled some of
their ships into one company, United Netherlands Navigation Company to open
routes from Holland to destinations where Dutch shipping was not going or
stopped operating. The eight partners kept operating their traditional routes
as well.
One
of the more successful one was Royal Interocean Lines who operated not less
than 14 liner services in cross trades (ships never called Holland)
administered from a very efficient Head office in Hong Kong.
I
was transferred to this holiest of holiest after 30 years in Africa. They were
all watching how that monkey was going to fall out of his tree! It didn't. In fact
I spent the most interesting time of my 38 years shipping career as Manager of
the agency office called M.H. = Manager Hong Kong. We looked after affairs in
Hong Kong, China, Taiwan and some other areas..
Korea
fell under Tokyo office which developed a big business to many destinations out
of South Korea. But because of this connection they were unable to go to North
Korea which was therefore assigned to Hong Kong who had good connections with
China. During my time no business was done with North Korea but when asking
around in Rotterdam it appeared that some
Nedlloyd Bulk ships had been chartered to North Korea. Not a very
profitable deal because they never paid the freight!
Just like that. But the Bulk people were interested for me to put their name on
the table again by a direct visit.
Through
our excellent relations with the two Chinese shipping organisations (one the
shipper, the other Agent) we were promised assistance to get a visa and the
tickets. So Mr Cheung Kar Chee (my
brains, mentor and good friend at our China desk) and I decided we better have
a look, pencilling in our autumn 1980 visit to China .
Communications
to North Korea were scarce: by train from Beijing, a 25 hour trip. (not to be
recommended!), by Aeroflot from Moscow via Khabarovsk in Eastern Siberia or
bi-weekly flights from Beijing to Pyong Yang operated alternatively by Korean
Air and CAAC (China) This was the obvious choice.
Fixing
a visa and plane reservations could never be done in advance but we had to wait
until we were actually in Beijing. After we finished our
business there, still no news. So we went to Shanghai for routine
business returning to Beijing a couple of days later. Everything fixed!
Our
Chinese hosts, Penavico, had duly arranged confirmed tickets on Korean Air
Tuesday 4/11 and back on Friday the 7th by CAAC.
So
off we trotted to the North Korean embassy. Huge, forbidding
building with an ice-cold, bleak, waiting room. Nobody said a word. They
knew who we were and what we wanted. Some of them had watched us from behind
long curtains when we walked up the drive and when we left I could not resist a
wave when we opened the exit gate!
There
were pamphlets and books extolling the virtue of "our great leader Kim Il Sung." Kim" his Surname is as popular as Jansen
in Holland! The first word of a name in Korean and Chinese is always the
surname.
An
interesting article in an English newspaper on board the plane referred to the
18th independence anniversary of Uganda under Idi Amin who had
thrown off the colonial yoke and now going from strength to strength with as
highlight the forced repatriation of minority group extortionists to India and
Pakistan!
The
Embassy staff was not unpleasant. In fact they were
downright rude, especially to Mr. Cheung. I managed to get some life into them when I thanked them
and said goodbye in Korean. I had picked up some words during South Korea
visits on Martinair business! Mr. Cheung was sure they would realise I had been
to the South and cancel the whole trip. Not so!
There
were of course some other hurdles to be taken such as a second entry permit for
China on the way back from PyongYang but Mr Cheung and our charming Penavico (agent) hostess Miss Wang Lu fixed everything flawlessly as
usual.
So, on a cold Tuesday morning we trooped off
well in time to Beijing International. No problems with exit formalities so
plenty of time to get some breakfast. At
the tables next to us we had our first glimpse of North Koreans. Coming in for lunch were the
airline crew who would fly us to the Promised land. A Russian built Antonov 24,
imitation Fokker Friendship except for the drooping wings!
"Friendships" in East Africa are manned by 2 flight crew and 2 flight
attendants. But the Koreans kept on coming in their opera uniforms until we
counted 18 of them. Girls very pretty! (one of the
outstanding features of South Korea as well!)
As the
A 24 can only take about 40 passengers why
have 18 crew?
We
were bussed to our plane which was out of sight quite a way from the terminal.
But after we had boarded half the passengers were told to get off! Apparently a
second plane would leave five minutes later. The Airline had put on a second
plane to accommodate all the passengers that day because they were obviously anxious
to hear what Nedlloyd people had to say and also make a good impression so that
we would not speak too insistently about the 50.000 odd dollars they owed us?
Whatever, there was a second bus and we did get on our way fairly soon
afterwards.
Two
forward seats on starboard had been taken out and in their place they had
fitted an ordinary
domestic fridge to store our food and drink. Whether it ran on
kerosene or LPG gas I don't know but it seemed rather primitive and against Western
safety rules. The flight was uneventful. Thanks!
Our
co-passengers included a lot of Koreans resident in Japan. They were forcibly
removed from Korea during the Japanese occupation but not allowed to become
Japanese or have voting rights. They seemed loyal to the North because they
came from there initially and in 1980 the South Korean Government was
still pretty corrupt and rough with their own people. Certainly
not democratic. If Koreans smoked non-Korean cigarettes in public they
were roughed up. I saw people being dragged out of taxis for this
"offence". I mention this to explain why these Japanese Koreans were
apparently still loyal to the medieval, feudal, nepotistic, straightjacket,
brainwashing, robot producing and
whatever other negative qualifications you can think of, North Korean regime.
Whilst
we were flying Mr. Cheung picked up one of the propaganda sheets. The U.S.A. were described as murderous, barbaric and whatever negatives
one can think of. He paled and whispered: "Mr Jansen we only have U.S. currency
notes on us. We'll never be allowed to use it!" Au contraire, mon
ami! They would only accept U.S. dollars from us. The more
the better.
Upon
arrival at Pyong Yang at 4.30 in the afternoon, we were met by Mr Song and Mr.
Li of the Korea Foreign Transportation Corporation who were responsible for all
shipping in and out of the country, ship's agent and stevedore. They also
introduced us to a beautiful Korean girl in a navy blue suit and a French
designer version of the large Korean/Russian cap. Miss Kim, what else? An
armband proclaimed her to be a guide and language expert but she did not score
too well there. Anyhow she smiled and we had no trouble with either Customs or
Immigration. She seemed infatuated by "our beloved, great, wise etc Leader
comrade Kim. Extolled his virtues whenever she opened her
pretty mouth. What a waste! But she did look after us well even if she
was a robot.
The
25 km drive to town on a six-lane highway was noticeable by the absence of any
traffic. The surface was like a roller coaster probably caused by heavy trucks using an ill-designed
highway. They used mainly vintage Volvo passenger cars. Apparently at one time
the Swedish Government thought they could get in for some reason. We learnt
that none of the cars had ever been paid for. Consolation for Nedlloyd Bulk!
The Swedes had reduced their presence. Probably gone back to East Africa where
the climate is better and the days consistently 12 hours sun - 12 hours dark.
We
had had a pretty rough time of it in our Shanghai hotel and when we were given
a choice of accommodation we opted for the de luxe room also thinking that we
may have to receive our hosts in our room on the odd occasion! (not Miss Kim).
However
in the Guandongong hotel de luxe meant entrance hall, suite, dining room,
kitchen, study, large bedroom and bathroom with bidet! The
size of a luxury flat. Fittings were sparse and apart from a Japanese
fridge and T.V. set everything else was locally made and plain if
uncomfortable!
Except the bed. I like the clean, hard Korean beds. Heating unbearably
hot (it was mild outside for the time of the year). A little man with spanners did not improve
things much and when we opened the windows we kept the latches in our hand.
They flapped a bit when a breeze came up but otherwise the hotel was good if
slightly regimented. At breakfast we had to give our lunch selection and at
lunch the dinner. Generous opening times of the dining room
and staff willing and friendly. Language not their greatest asset but
better than in Australia!
Many
girls wore Korean dress but unlike their sisters in China they were allowed
cosmetics and have their hair done of their own choice. Result was that female
street cleaners (not in Korean dress!) had lipstick, rouge and make-up as well
as the latest style coiffure. The Great Leader is known for having an eye for
the girls and he probably ordered that. At least he and I had one thing in
common.
Primary
schoolgirls all had the same kind of pompoms in their hair which looked
very attractive. They were probably not allowed not to wear one.
One
thing the North Korean men had in common with their Southern brothers: they
were always late! But when talking to
them during meetings and dinners they were hospitable and pleasant enough.
In
the evening we were left alone to dine in a virtually deserted dining room at
our hotel. After a pretty eventful day we were grateful for that. Especially Mr Cheung who had had all sorts of visions about being
arrested. They seemed to have no idea how things were in Seoul: 11
million people in a very vibrant city. Light and cars
everywhere.
There
were some lights! A couple of brand new
20 story flats even had coloured light on top of them. We could see lifts going
up and down until I noticed something eerie. I could not explain what until I
saw it! Notwithstanding all the light in the buildings and movement of lifts
there were actually no people in them. Empty! I bit like the North Korean
village across the border at Panmunyong. There is a village with lights and
loud music but there is nobody in it! The other buildings on the border are
just facades a few meters deep! The North Korean flag towering over the village
is the largest flag in the world, on the tallest masthead!
Wednesday,
5th November, 1980. In the morning we were taken to Kim Il Sung's birthplace and an adjacent museum extolling his
virtues and heroic deeds. The latter were all invented by the imagination of
his propaganda department. He was just a big fat slob like his son is now, with
an insatiable appetite for Western style living and women. . He did have the
advantage of Korean people who are tough, hardworking and not used to three
square meals a day. He was placed in power by the Russians and later Chinese
Communists (Chairman Mao) without whom we would never have heard of him.
In
the afternoon we went to the office of the Korea Foreign Transportation Corp.
for general discussions. This Corporation controls all overseas trade in every
respect. They arrange the buying, selling, shipping and they are the sole
shipping agent in the country. Quite simple really.
Once you are in their good books everything else is easy. As said earlier , Mr Son and Mr. Li were extremely correct and on
the verge of pleasant. They were obviously used to "foreigners" and
courteous hosts at the dinner they gave us at 9PM that night after the circus.
Good food if not extravagant. I prefer that on Safari, anyhow!
The Circus. The North Korean circus is world famous. The acts border
on the absolutely impossible! No, they are impossible! I got very physically
tired from just watching them! When we got to the large permanent building
there were dozens of busses outside. When we entered it became clear that they
had bussed in thousands of children from quite far away. They must have been
boarding schools because they all were similarly dressed. Some of the smaller
ones were already fast asleep in their seats. Other succumbed to Morpheus
during the show. Not that is was boring! It was really fantastic. I am a bit of
a circus fan and this was the supreme best. I found out later how it is done!
6-11-80
The next day we had two items on the program but before starting on them we
insisted on going to the Korean Air office to confirm our seats back to Peking on the Friday.
Mr Cheung is always very polite especially when he is confronted with
people who can whisk him off never to be seen again! He has brains! So with his
best smile and polite words he handed the reception girl our tickets and asked
whether we could return to the world. The (good looking I must say)
female gave them a cursory glance and literally threw them back at him with the
LOUD words ANYANG!!!! You guessed it and as expert Korean speaker I confirmed to him: NO !!!! As Mr Patel in Daressalaam would
have said so appropriately: WATTODO BWANA! The girl ignored us completely and
continued filing her nails. After all when you have only ten passengers to deal
with per day or may be week, the occasions and chance to petrify foreigner
cannot be missed.
But
being older than my friend Cheung I suggested we were going to transfer the
embarrassment to our hosts whom we had invited to a return dinner that evening.
Kar Chee was not sure but it worked. One of the reasons may have been that
Koreans do not like Chinese. I don't know why because most of them can actually
read Chinese and for the untrained they look the same most of the time. It was
the Japanese who terrorised the Koreans, not the Chinese. Anyhow as I am
writing this you will have surmised we got away on time with no further
problems. Had the plane virtually to ourselves too! Mr
Cheung not amused! (He never gets cross!)
The
visit to the underground seemed unlikely to improve matters. Another complete
hoax! In Hong Kong the Mass Transit Systems moves hundreds of thousands people
every day. But in North Korea, people get allocated their jobs by the
Government. Can you drive a car? O.K. you become waiter. Are you an English
speaker? O.K. you work in the coal mines. Houses are allocated next to the job!
Full stop!
What
I meant to explain is there is no reason for an underground in Pyong Yang. Same
with cops above ground arranging traffic on six lane roads in the city. Maximum
10 vehicles in sight at any time! 25 kph!
But
off we went. Down about 150 metres to a platform adorned with a larger than
life statue of our mate Il Sung doing good works like feeding fish in a pond.
There were some quasi passengers who boarded and we duly proceeded to the next
station which had an even larger statue of Sung but this time doing some even
more important : stroking little birds over their heads. You see, all animals
became entranced and tame by his presence. Will spare you the
rest. Oh yes there were clocks at the stations and in the trains which
showed when the train was due. It ran exactly on time, believe it or not. We
spent about 20 minutes playing trains like that! Give me a break!
In the afternoon the "piece de
resistance". Children's Paradise A huge building at an immense square. We
should have started at 3 but were only collected at 4. We promised Miss Kim a
life in the salt mines if it happened again but the ire of it was lost on her!
Cheung
and I climbed an impressive steps of marble steps
which led to an large hall with a big balcony on which about 30 trumpeters
suddenly opened up. Mt Cheung nearly had a fit.:
"Mr Jansen this must be for some head of state. They have made a mistake
and with that he started to make a U-turn to the entrance hoping our car was
still there. It wasn't of course and the fanfare was meant for the honorable
guests from Holland! All part of the service!
Anyhow
when we had gracefully acknowledged the impressive welcome by nodding to the
bandmaster, we were duly guided to the first room. As we entered a tractor was
started up by an 11 year old boy who together with 30 others
were obviously studying motor mechanics. All sorts of mock-up of
engines, gearboxes and what have you.
As
an aside (once again) North Korea has a policy of self-sufficiency. ( have forgotten the Korean word but if it comes back I'll
show off with it) So a lot of stuff is made locally which often means it does
not work. Hence the famine and droughts. Amazing how
dictatorial rogue countries all suffer from these natural disasters. Even
ex-Rhodesia has managed to be hungry whilst it used to feed the other hungry
people in Africa like Ethiopia (after the Emperor), Somalia (after the
Italians/British left) Sudan, etc etc.
Back
to the Children's Paradise:
The
most impressive was the training of gymnasts. Tiny girls, say 3 or 4 years old
were put through their paces by female Ayatollo Homenies, Ilse Kramer (of
German Concentration Camp Fame) and similar sadists.
Terrible
to watch these small slaves who live in and go through these cruel paces
whether they like it or not. They actually smile all the time! Plastic surgery?
(Of
interest to note that Australian young gymnasts are on occasions also trained
by North Korean and Chinese drill mistresses at institutions called Government
(taxpayer funded) Sports Academy who cover a lot of other sports including
tennis, swimming and others at which Australians excel. )
They
had rooms with forty 9
year old playing the accordion which is not an easy instrument to learn for
kids. Violin, Cello, Piano, Harp and some other terribly difficult indigenous
instruments I had never seen before. You name it they did it. And well!
We
were finished by about 6 PM and I was not impressed. Depressed was the better
word. Because make no mistakes. These kids are selected and free choice does
not come into it.
The
whole country is regimented from the top and many visitors fall for it. The
Chinese had a similar children's place in Shanghai but I only heard
about it during the first year I went, 1977 and was never asked to visit. But
then the Chinese became my dear friends, no exaggeration.
All
in all it had been quite a day which ended with our invitation for dinner for
our Korean friends. The 'plane tickets had been fixed and we had a pleasant
evening fortified by the Black Label whisky and Hennessy XO which we were able
to buy in the shop for foreign friends in the hotel with American dollars only.
We
did visit a
department store purportedly to buy some souvenirs but we were interested to
see what people could buy. Well, the shops were dimly lit and the goods a heap
of cheap junk which you could not have given away South of the border. I bought
a hand woven basket with Pyong Yang on it. At least that is what they said. I
actually checked in Hong Kong and it was true.
I
had a second Dutch passport especially for China which also served its purpose
for North Korea. Because if South Korea had seen a North
Korean stamp they would have refused me and Taiwan in those days was not
enamoured by people who had been to Mainland China. The Dutch Government
was always very good in such matters but an overzealous bl........ Dutch
consular official in Hong Kong, a Mijnheer Vrolijk, destroyed this special
passport which means I cannot check where and when I went to China. Did not
make me Vrolijk (Happy)
And
so we had come to the last day of our stay our only worry being that our hosts
would be in time to take us to the airport. No hassles and as we taxied to the
runway and took off we saw poor Miss Kim waving at us until we were out of
sight.
She
was never in any way personal about her life. Just said very matter of factly
she had a flat which she shared with her parents. She could not be tempted to
tell us a bit more about her private life which was understandable but
nevertheless a pity. She only gave something of her inner self when we left!
She must have liked us but never said or showed anything. Wonder what happened
to the poor girl!
When
we landed in Peking I said to Mr C.: We are home Mr Cheung!! We were met by our friend Miss Wang. We had had some
hotel trouble in Shanghai before we left for Pyong Yang and she pulled a very sad face and said she had only be able
to get one small room for the two of us at some obscure guesthouse. Joke, Joke!
She took us to the Beijing Hotel were we each had a de Luxe room with all
conveniences except hot and cold running chamber maids!
Nice to be back in Hong Kong the next
day but a memorable trip.
We did make some new friends Messrs Son and Li and Miss Kim but they did not
pay the outstanding demurrage account!
Anton
Jansen
Sydney,
July, 2002