S.S. "PAPPAPORTIANNI"

 

 

Mombasa Signal Station called me on the phone at home.  Nothing unusual in that if one was living and working in Mombasa but at the time of this call I was stationed in Tanga, a hole in the reef port which lies about  a third of the way between Mombasa and Dar es Salaam.  The year was 1967 or 68, a time when Tanzania was busy testing International diplomacy by playing East off against west.  Probably hoping to lever more aid from the likes of the UK whilst at the same time opening an African window of trade for China.  It was also shortly after the upheaval time of the Red Guards and Mao’s Little Red Book.  All this was of course far from the daily life of a lowly pilot such as myself in Tanga, or so I thought.

 

‘Good morning sir’, said Paul, the senior signalman in Mombasa.  Paul was ex Kenya Navy man, trained by the Royal Nay, and an excellent signalman with a superb command of the English language which he always delivered clearly and concisely.  Just as well that morning as he was relaying to me a message received from Mombasa Radio to the effect that a ship had sent out a distress signal a  short time back.  Paul gave me the estimated Latitude and Longitude and went on to say that the master had indicated that the ship had hit a reef, was in danger of breaking up, and that he would be ordering the crew to abandon ship. 

 

Alerting Tanga signal station to have the pilot cutter readied for me I headed down to our office in the Tanga Port to run up the position given to me by Paul onto an Admiralty chart.  The ship, if the position given was correct,  appeared to have struck the reef which protects the southern side of the island of Pemba, an island lying some 30 miles offshore from Tanga.  Whilst very close in terms of distance being a mere three hours steaming away Pemba was a mysterious place at that time, cut off from the outside world and nominally under the control of Zanzibar.  Both islands were part of Tanzania and had been since 1963 when they chose, elected is hardly the right word, to join in a union with mainland Tanganyika as it was known at that time.  The two islands retained their full autonomy in the new republic thanks to the newly appointed and powerful First Vice President Karume, himself a Zanzibari and the willingness of President Nyerere to allow such full reign. 

 

In effect both Zanzibar and Pemba became closed to the outside world thanks to the fear drummed out by Karume and others that all foreigners, read colonials, were bad for business and that all of their economic woes were entirely the fault of their past colonial masters.  The few ships that called at Zanzibar  anchored in the roads to work cargo and so it was easy enough to control or ban entirely, shore leave for the ships crews.  With no port of any consequence and no airport on Pemba that island was totally cut off, relying solely on local dhows to carry any commerce, such as their cloves crop, to Zanzibar for shipping overseas.

 

It was against this backdrop of mystery and intrigue that I was cleared by Mike Groves, the Principal Marine Officer stationed in Mombasa to sail for Pemba with utmost dispatch.

 

Which is what we did after throwing a few emergency stores on board in the way of first aid kits, fresh water, life jackets etc. We were under weigh by about 0700 hours and after clearing the outer reef headed on a south easterly track for southern Pemba.  Thankfully the weather was kind it being a calm day with only a slight breeze and little sea thereby allowing the pilot cutter to move along at her full speed of about 10 knots.  After an uneventful crossing we spotted a ship obviously on the reef some ½ mile from the beach on the southern end of the island. 

 

The accommodation ladder was slung over the side of the ship and it was apparent that the crew, in the process of walking across the drying reef, had decided to abandon ship which on the falling tide was by now more or less high and dry.  I don’t think they saw us at this stage as they were intent upon picking their way ashore over a reef which was inundated with small rock pools making for slow and careful progress towards the beach some distance away.   They achieved this in snake like fashion with each man carefully following in the footsteps of the man in front. 

 

Once on the beach they turned their heads seawards and, immediately upon spotting us standing off started to wave to attract our attention.  

 

At the same time as the crew arrived on the beach we spotted a naval patrol boat to the north moving at high speed to intercept with us.  Oh, ho I thought, here comes the Pemba navy so hove too as there was little point in doing otherwise, my ten knots and unarmed hardly being a match for thirty knots and armed with a fore-deck gun amongst other armaments.

 

 It wasn’t.  Instead it turned out to be flying the Kenyan flag and after closing with us we verbally identified each other at close quarters upon which the Commanding Officer of the boat invited me on board for a briefing, which I happily accepted. I boarded to find myself confronted with a Royal Navy  two ringer (Lieutenant) whilst I was wearing two and a half, being the normal dress for an East African pilot.  As I had the extra half stripe equal to a lieutenant commander in his navy, I was treated with the greatest respect and in fact we were to work very closely and harmoniously together over the next few hours, but all that lay ahead.  Down on deck the crew comprised of Kenyan ratings and RN Petty Officers.  All very shipshape and efficient with the whole complement turned to in immaculate whites

 

Having briefed the commander, sadly I  have forgotten his name, we turned our attention to the shipwrecked crew which by this time had made it safely to the beach and were seated as a group on the totally deserted beach just above the high water mark.  We could just make out  through binoculars the fact that they had disembarked complete with suitcases and  blankets.

 

The Commander turned to me and sought my opinion as to what the next course of action should be.

We agreed that rescuing the shipwrecked crew seemed to be the sensible thing to do as there appeared to be no action on that front from any local people ashore who might be living nearby.  It was noon and the sun was beating mercilessly down onto the beach in the absence of any wind.  We had no means of knowing how much water, if any,  the crew had so decided to send a rescue party ashore together with water and some provisions. 

 

The tide by this time was making and the exposed reef was now just covered.  Launching a Gemini rubber ducky which drew about 6 inches the rescue party, comprising of a couple of RN petty officers inched its way shoreward on the rising tide.  Communication between the rescue party and the bridge was by walkie talkie.  By the time the rubber ducky had beached the shipwrecked  crew had long since retired from the oppressive heat to the cooler confines of the scrub and bush above the high water mark, or so we thought.

 

We watched the landing party walk up the beach and head into the scrub to rustle up the crew.  Suddenly what had seemed to be a fairly straight forward operation appeared to go wrong.  Despite repeated calls from us on the walkie talkie for sitreps no reply was received and this despite the fact that there were two such units with the landing party.  After vainly attempting to raise the party for some 15 minutes we were still faced with an empty beach, no shipwrecked crew and no landing party.  It was agreed that a second whaler be despatched and this too was manned by two  RN CPO’s and two ratings.  This time they went armed and with more radio’s.

 

Again we watched through binoculars as the Boston whaler headed in, this time being able to get close to the shore thanks to the still making tide.  Suddenly it veered off running parallel to the beach before heading back to the ship whilst at the same time the radio crackled into life.  It was the CPO coxswain advising that as they were about to beach armed militia emerged from the scrub so sensing trouble he headed out to safety.  The Commander ordered them back to the ship and as he was boarding we received a terse and brief message from one of the original landing party stating that they had been captured by the Green Guards, local humour perhaps for the by now infamous Red guards of their heroes in China.  The message went on to say that the ships captain had been shot and wounded in the leg.

 

That was all, leaving us to assume that the captors had terminated the call.  Consternation on board.  We were now faced by the fact that the Green Guards (of Tanzania) had  not only captured a bunch of shipwrecked Greeks but also a small part of the Navy of Kenya, a neighbouring State which had at that time a slightly strained relationship with Tanzania.  Our Commander elected for diplomacy and so called the Kenyan Navy headquarters in Mombasa putting them in the picture and seeking guidance.  Do we urgently go in with the heavy guns and rescue the captives or do we rely on the diplomatic skills of the powers in Nairobi to sort out the mess?  As we waited for the reply we were told that diplomacy would be tried first and that we were to remain on high alert. 

 

This we did although what ‘high alert’ is when one is lying to, off a seemingly deserted island, amounted to coffee and some sandwiches on the bridge.  By this time I decided to dispatch the pilot cutter back to Tanga having been requested to remain on board the Patrol Boat on the grounds that as I was working for the Tanzanian Government  then I should act as their de facto ambassador!

 

The afternoon ticked away slowly and we could only hazard a guess as to what was happening ashore in the absence of any further radio messages or in the diplomatic circles in Mombasa, Nairobi and Dar es Salaam.

 

About 1630 hours the radio crackled once again, this time very faint and distorted; it was the CPO to say that they were being marched at gun point to Chake Chake, the Islands capital and should arrive by 1700 hours.  The march was through tough and at times boggy terrain making progress slow, in part hampered by the captain’s limp as he had suffered a flesh wound to the leg.  This information was immediately relayed to Mombasa who in reply suggested that we make our way round the coast and lie off Chake Chake awaiting orders.  This we did and by the time we arrived offshore dusk had fallen.  More waiting whilst on deck the remaining CPO’s and PO’s were muttering to the effect that “lets get ashore and sort these characters out” whilst at the same time rescuing their colleagues.  Patience was the name of the game however and in the end it paid off as we were given diplomatic clearance to enter port and pick up both the Greek crew and the captured naval personnel. 

 

It was a very tricky approach to the port through a narrow unlit channel marked by unlit stakes set into the mud banks.  We inched our way in at times nearly brushing the markers with the aid of the searchlight until we reached a tiny swinging basin close by the dimly light jetty.  Remaining cautious, an action I fully endorsed as the air was heavily charged with tension and with the crew at action stations, the commander elected not to go alongside but rather to heave to and after plenty of backing and filling in the cramped basin had the ship lined up for a quick exit back down the channel should matters start to get out of hand.   

 

In the glare of the searchlight we picked up a boat which was heading from the shore to us, a matter of  no more than a 100 metres.  On board were some of the rescued crew and the PO.  As they came alongside a second boat was sighted and that proved to have the balance of the crew, including the Greek master and the CPO.  Minutes later all were on board and without further ado we fired up the engines and headed out to sea as quickly as we safely could.  All this had taken place  against the  backdrop of a silent, virtually dark town, save for the odd oil lamp, and no visible or verbal exchange with anyone from ashore.  The ferry boats disappeared into the night as silently as they had arrived, without a word being said.  A most eerie experience to say the least.

 

Back out in the open sea we slowed down and both the commander and I headed down below to the wardroom to interrogate (one does not interview on a naval ship) both the rescued Greeks and our landing party PO’s.  It was in fact fairly light hearted as the tensions of the past twelve hours rapidly dropped away and all were able to relax and tell their stories. 

 

But first up was the biggest surprise, with the Greek shipmaster profusely thanking our commander for their rescue.  Not just with thanks however as he proceeded to whip a blanket off a large box which he had earlier placed in the centre of the wardroom table.  Our first thoughts were that the box contained the ships log books and chronometers so imagine our amazement to discover that it was in fact a case of Johnny Walker Black Label whisky which the captain immediately broached, handing out bottles to all those in the wardroom including myself.  When order was restored, and a bottle opened I have to admit, we started to piece together their story.

 

They had struck the reef in poor visibility at night as neither their radar nor the local lighthouse were in working order.  Working on dead reckoning the captain had badly underestimated the strength of the northbound set thus had been carried much further to the north and west than he had calculated.  With the ship hard up on the reef and the tide falling they realised that refloating and salvaging was not going to be a realistic choice as the ship had suffered severe bottom damage causing holds and the engine room to be broached.  At daylight they were better able to assess their predicament and so elected at low water to lower the gangway and walk ashore.  At this stage they only guessed that they had struck the south side of Pemba, an accurate guess at it turned out. 

 

Having walked and waded ashore, a distance of nearly ½ a kilometre, and not finding any immediate signs of habitation, they decided to remain grouped together on the beach where they would be visible to their rescuers.  It was at about this time that they spotted us approaching from seaward  that the Green Guards arrived on the scene, presumably alerted by local villagers.  The Green Guards refrained from breaking their cover and thereby showing themselves to us by staying in the nearby bush and ordering the crew at gun point to move back into the bush whereupon they were surrounded.  During this manoeuvre a minor skirmish broke out as they guards were not being too gentle with their rifle butts resulting in a few bruised sailors and the captain with a gunshot wound in the leg.  Whether it was meant or not remained unclear and fortunately it was a minor flesh would which was bandaged up. 

 

Next up the landing party arrived and were easily fooled by a hail from the scrub into an ambush whereupon they were captured and disarmed of their sidearms.  Shortly after binding all captors arms behind their backs captors and captives set out on foot to Chake Chake.  Several minor skirmishes happened along the way, particularly with the RN personnel.  A combination of the thuggery of the guards in continually prodding their hapless prisoners with rifle butts and sticks coupled with the difficulty of trying to maintain their balance with their arms tied resulted in many falls into the swampy uneven ground. 

 

Their frustration running very high the navy men tried to vent their anger by kicking out at the guards.  Progress was slow and after receiving a few blows in return they realised the futility of retaliation and so quietened down.  It was an exceedingly slow, very hot, humid and  painful march for all of them, particularly so for the master, nursing his wounded leg, and the ageing chief engineer, not used to such physical exertion. 

 

After some five hours and near exhausted by their efforts they emerged into the outskirts of a town.  Thankful that they had finally reached somewhere they stumbled into the local police station where they were immediately locked up and their bonds removed.  Thankfully they were given water as all were parched and in danger of dehydration.  As darkness fell they still had no idea where they were nor what fate they faced as no information had been forthcoming from either the Green Guards or the local constabulary.  About 2000 hours they were ushered outside the police station into the dimly lit streets before being marched through the town to the waterfront.  Without any explanation they were pushed into boats at gun point with the boats loaded they then headed out towards a glaring searchlight obviously situated on a ship in the stream.  Imagine their reaction to find that the searchlight was in fact on the bridge of our ship.  From one moment of deep fear to one of total relief.

 

The PO’s quickly revived and were all for going back ashore suitably armed this time and dealing with the hated guards whilst the Greeks were just happy to be alive after their ordeal. It was with a great sense of relief for all of us to be back out into the safety of the open sea as all on board had felt the strain of getting into and out of Chake Chake unscathed by either enemy fire or marine mishap in such confined waters.

 

It had indeed been a very strange, and very long, day and now it was time for me to call up Tanga and have the pilot boat rendezvous with the patrol boat off Tanga.  This they did and around midnight  I transferred to my cutter whilst the navy headed back to Mombasa together with the shipwrecked crew.

 

I never did find out just what went on within the diplomatic circles of Mombasa, Nairobi and Dar es Salaam.  Whatever, for once the civil services  of both countries, plus the Royal Navy worked fast enough that a major diplomatic incident, and possible further bloodshed, was averted. All the more surprising as Kenya and Tanzania had broken off diplomatic relations a couple of years earlier.

 

The Papportianni became quite a landmark and far as I know her remains are probably still visible on the reef to ships passing between the islands of Zanzibar and Pemba.

 

Written by Captain Peter Barefoot, ex Pilot East African Railways & Harbour and donated by Anton Jansen.