Peck was already at Tullamarine when Hames and I arrived at 8.15am. As we checked in our luggage (one bag and six surfboards) we were advised that the plane would have 150 spare seats so we could take our pick. We did.

After following the boards onto the Qantas van (cringing as the baggage handlers treated our finely tuned weapons like old laundry bags) we made our way through customs to the departure lounge and assorted duty free stores. Peck decided to change some money and disappeared. Hames also vanished - into the Qantas Club, leaving me with the other common folk. Boarding commenced. I waited and soon was alone in the lounge avoiding eye contact with the three stewardesses. One, who had checked us in, asked if I was tc, Hames or Peck. "Shall I give the others a move along? I think so". So she picked up the microphone and announced. "Will the remaining two passengers, Messrs Hames and Peck please board QF145 immediately, the plane is waiting".
They soon appeared. Peck was last on board.

The flight was without incident. We had three seats each and managed to sleep much of the way.

Arrival Jakarta. Ten meters from collecting our bags from the carousel we were surrounded by half a dozen bemo drivers and our boss. 1st price 150,000rp per person. 1st counter offer 50,000rp total. (made by myself but almost immediately overridden by an embarrassed Peck to 100,000rp total. Final figure 200,000rp total.

We made our way to the van, strapped on the boards and jumped in. We were on out way to Cimaja.

The ride was absolute hell! Our driver, a nightmare. He was sleepy (between bursts of drug induced speed), aggressive, homicidal and perhaps suicidal. He told us he had two families. On the freeway from the airport he insisted on driving anywhere but in a lane. He passed cars in the middle of two lanes. He drove down the emergency lane. He accelerated around people, blocked them off and then slowed to a crawl. We had cars passing us on both sides simultaneously as he did some white-lining. We told the driver he seemed sleepy. We offered to drive. I joked with the driver about his safety and his family at home. Hames threatened him. Nothing helped. We sighed with relief when the freeway ended thinking that the forced reduction in speed might be safer. We were so wrong.

Through the narrow, crowded and winding streets from Bogor to Cimaja (4hrs) we hurtled, passing ten trucks at a time along completely blind roads. We pushed umpteen other unfortunates off the road. At one stage the driver actually crossed to the wrong side of the road just to push some poor elderly female pedestrian further off 'his tarmac'. He missed her by inches. We were horrified. Then as the drugs would wear off (the driver used this drink containing caffeine and nicotine which got him speedy but seemingly for only about 30mins at a time) he would just go to sleep. The car would slowly come to almost a complete stop. We would say something, he'd wake up off we'd go again.

Every minute was hideous. Not for a second could we relax. For the entire journey we seriously feared for our lives. When we finally arrived at Cimaja our relief was indescribable.

Mustika Raju. Three individual room 16,000rp each. Tiled floor to ceiling. No fans. Individual toilet & mundy. We erected mosquito nets, unpacked our gear and made our way to the restaurant next door. Dinner consisted of 3 x Nasi Goreng + 3 x Bintang = 45,000rp.

Then back to the Mustika, checked boards, had another beer, shared a few gudangs, and hit the sack.

Quotes: During conversation about food. Driver "Ayam Goreng" , I answered "Oh, I am tc."

Day 2

tc 'Slept quite well last night, comfortably warm covered in only a loin cloth. Woke a couple of times familiarizing myself with the surroundings. Finally at 4am woke for good to the Muslim chanting. Still at least one hour to first light.
Went for a walk in the warm morning air. At least the street outside was quiet. I walked in bare feet, shorts and T-shirt. Got surrounded by a pack of snarling dogs but remembering an old Bali trick I bent down to pick up a stone. The dogs scampered away yelping as though we has been beaten within an inch of our lives. I hadn't even found a rock.
After getting to within earshot of the surf I returned to Mustika, carefully avoiding frogs and geckos. At the hotel two staff were sleeping on bamboo mats on a tiled porch. We couldn't have been sleeping too heavily as one sat up and said "Salamat". I responded similarly (well almost, I actually said "Salamat Pagi" - good afternoon - but he didn't mind). I asked for a bottle of aqua and returned to my room.'

4:30am Splish splosh - Peck was awake and very happy as his body clock was still in tune. It was 7:30am EST. We sat down outside together just in our shorts and shared a few cigis. Peck went back to bed for a nap. The chanting stopped. It was still dark.

Sometime later a rooster started to crow. And within 15 mins the eastern horizon got a bit lighter. I woke Hames and alerted Peck, then suited up.

5am. Dressed in boardies, vest and booties we carried our boards about 500m down the road, and through some paddies to the beach.

First surf. 2'-4' Cimaja, no wind but messy. Very hollow right running along boulder beach near small river mouth. The water was filthy, really dirty. We surfed 2hrs - not too well - but were quite happy to be in tepid water for a change. We met Barry (Sth Africa) and Matt (NZ), got some info on Ginteng and decided to head there that day.

12:30-4pm Bemo to Ginteng. Election fever. Green party. Massive street blockages. Young people in a fever. Quite scary at times. The Bemo staff (3) had different coloured headbands for each occasion and put on their green ones today. It helped us get through. Very slow trip. 60,000rp.

4pm. Arrived Mama's. Set up in single house (3 rooms + laundry + return verandah) 20,000rp each per night including all meals. Place deserted save for two Hawaiians (Joe & Darcie) who had arrived two hours earlier.

Day 3

Woke to the cock crowing and the thud of a big set breaking on the reef. No singing/chanting, no motor bikes, just quiet in the countryside.

I got out of bed (too excited) and went to the beach to some gentle exercises. There was lightning on the western horizon (sea).

'I hope its not an ominous sign. Would like a couple of smallish days to warm up. No wind at present. The temperature at 4:30am is a beautiful (maybe) 25C. Warm enough to stand on the beach in only shorts and not feel a chill on your bare skin, but not too hot to sleep.'

Swell and sea generally quite messy this day. Hames very keen to get wet paddles out at Harbour with Joe and Darcy. Conditions aren't good and although the general wave is evident, session is mainly lumpy 4'-6' takeoffs into heavy bowls then flattening out.

Later Peck and I take bikes up to the same area. Our riders point out the break so we put on our boots and waded out over the long reef. As we get closer to the wave itself we doubted that it is actually rideable. Instead of paddling out, we decided to float over the shallow reef, right around the corner into a long sandy bay/port to see if there were any more protected waves. Breaking the whole way from the harbour point into the bay is a righthander. Perhaps as much as 800m in length. At takeoff it is big and messy, by the end it is glassy but too small (ie too shallow). We were unable to locate a section which appeared surfable*. We drifted all the way into the bay, took a stroll into some jungle (saw a huge butterfly) and eventually met our riders who had somehow managed to track us down. By this time (about midday) the wind was very much onshore at the main beach (Mama's).

At Mama's there are about six buildings. The main house with large eating area, staff sleeping area and kitchen. There is one building with three single rooms, several two room buildings (quite new) and our house. Meals are served in the main house in an open air room with concrete floor, bamboo walls (waist height), thatched ceiling and a tiled roof. All the losmans are similar style but without the concrete - essentially wooden framed with bamboo thatch walls.

There is power via a generator (out of earshot) every evening although the wiring is sus. My ceiling fan for example only runs when the porch light is on.

Meals this day: Porridge and Kopi Susu (a wonderfully sweet and flavoursome milk coffee) in the morning, large lunch with fruit dessert, and large fried dinner of rice, vegetables, various patties and condiments.

At night the locals sleep either on the concrete (on mats) or on wooden benches in the courtyard. Losman beds are comfortable with one sheet and pillow provided.

Animals: Geckos & frogs at night. A few stray dogs, plenty of pet birds including chickens. Bats also. The geckos have a very loud call for their size "Ghe - cko, Ghe - cko"

*Note should be taken for future that this break could be more than just surfable - just needs some adventurous souls. Suggest High tide, NNW wind.

Day 4

Heavy storm overnight with lightning and thunder directly overhead (and low). Never experienced such frightening claps. Peck sits out storm on balcony and watches puddles of water around hut sparking into the electrified air. Rain +++. Awoke to still conditions and reasonably clean swell but not a Turtles day.

Left hander at Harbour is firing and getting better as the morning goes on. Some beautiful waves around 4' with bigger (6') sets. Got very clean and hollow on the take off but after a big drop became a bit too full. However the scene is tarnished by the presence of a lot of floating debris in the water (bamboo - not rubbish), presumably washed in by heavy rains overnight. Unfortunately this causes strife for Peck who runs over an unseen obstacle and does a fin. Luckily the fin is still attached but the board is not rideable and Peck misses out. I get a clean, small tube. First in Java.

Day 5

4am heard the Muslim chants for the first time. Wind offshore.

Took bikes to Harbour. Surf 6-8' glass. Huge pits and scary. Everyone has good, heart pumping waves. I sat in one massively large green room and was amped. Thrilling session. Solid 8' at close (some relief to paddle in).
The Harbour beach is magnificent. You can sit on the beach under the shade of the overhanging jungle with your feet in the warm sea water. Water temp is almost hot in places. Wearing wetsuits for sun and reef protection only.

Own riders established now.
Peck - Johnny (be good)
Hames - Paulet (the cop)
I - Borneng (no English but bike includes muffler and foot rests!. Also drives slow).

The morning's heavy waves followed by an evening session at Mamas. Paddle out through 'small harbour'* inside peak of left hander. First few sets solid 6'. Everyone being extremely cautious, trying to check out whats happening down the line. Fear factor triples as booming 8-10' sets roll through breaking top to bottom. Peck sets the pace with heavy one making a big drop. Wide ones increase the tension. Joe scores some epic big waves - perfect, hollow with a 10-15 knot offshore. Always liable to get worked after coming off a ride as subsequent waves are often bigger and wider. Several scrambles over very big waves. After a few smaller sets, all sitting too far out, a solid wave comes through and Peck sets his mind on taking it. Deep, late but determined, he takes the drop to the crew's collective horror. Makes it down to the bottom but nose digs in, ending any hope of riding through bowl. Huge, heavy wave - four times overhead. Heavy penalty with broken board (having just repaired fin) and bruised leg. Long hold down and eventually gets washed over reef. Significant negative psyche effect on remaining crew. Further board damage for Barry (Sth African). I paddled in via harbour (about 20mins against current). Hames waited long time but eventually scored a nice, smaller (8') wave and comes in over reef. All in all, one of the heaviest days surfing ever!

My leg rope is now 4' longer after getting hit by four consecutive 10' grinders. Still feeling shaken in evening. Peck's calf bruised but OK.

* Small harbour is gap in reef about 500m from Mama's. This is the easiest way to access Mama's peak. Not to be confused with 'the Harbour'- a larger, partially man built harbour about 1km east of Mama's.

Day 6

Up at sunrise (sleep-in), swell back to 6'. Offshore. Surfed Mama's and it was beautiful:- glassy, hollow and long. 'A' frame peaks into a running wall. Only decision to make is when to pull out. Alltime tubes had. Surfed 3 hours with all the Mama's crew (Joe, Darcie, Barry and us). Very friendly in water. Everyone stoked. Lotsa fun. Came in at 11am, had Kopi Susu and then a big lunch.

During the midday sun everyone lazed, mended bodies, boards etc, took a few bike reconnaissance trips and decided to have our evening surf at Mama's again.

3-6pm. Mama's 4'-6'. Magnificent. Take off on the furthest peak and line up long fast winding tubes.
Myself - 4 good tubes including one at takeoff.
Hames - Pigdog backhand tube attempts. Some heavy over the falls trips.
Peck - Under the curtain a couple of times.

The day: Absolutely excellent surfwise. Conditions unmatched in years. Big but makeable takeoffs, long fast hollow walls. Glass. Colours unreal from morning to sunset; blues, oranges, greens. Warm water clear skies. 9.5/10.

Finished off with two bottles of beer each. lovely dinner, Smashing pumpkins. Great chats with the residents around the dinner table.

Mama shows up for first time with carload of beer, fresh fruit, and beef.

Day 7

Swell has dropped a bit more. A little rain last night. Still conditions at 6am. Warm.

Took bikes to Harbour. My man, Bornang gone to Pelabuhanratu for some time so Hames and I share one bike.. Three people, two boards and a 100cc cycle on a pot holed track. Fortunately chickens, goats, dogs and cats stay clear.

Surf glassy 4'-6' lefts with just us. Very pleasant 3hrs. On return we get report from Joe and Darcie that Turtles is on the improve.

After lunch Hames and Peck take bikes into telephone at Serade - 15,000rs + danger. Trip takes 3hrs return.

On arrival back at camp we all get into an evening surf at Mama's. Infrequent 4' sets are excellent but require wait. Conditions superb as we are becoming accustomed. Glassy, wally hollow and fast. All get very good waves.
Self: double barrel
Peck: late takeoffs (x lots)
Hames: Backhand re-entries.
Lots of long, long rides for everyone. Paddle in at 6pm - dark.

Late evening roll ups - Dutch surf team - seven.

Day 8

Am: Surfed Mama's small 2'-3'. Lovely conditions. Heaps of fish in water. Very clear. Surfed for 1.5hrs and then back for breakfast. Porridge, banana and Kopi Susu.

11am: Bikes to Turtles. Cross-shore 3'. Pretty crappy. Note rollup of Californian guy - too psyched.

4pm Mama's. Hames and myself only. Peck resting after intestinal explosion (proved to be one off). Conditions lovely again. No wind (bar Peck). First 1.5hrs 3'-4' and great. Then flat spell. Virtually paddled in.

Heaps of rollups this day. Couple of Swiss (Serge -Watchmaker and member of Swiss surf team, and Andre - the baker.). Six pommies and the Californian. Lot of people in meal area.

Day 9

Swell still small. All others went to Turtles am. We surfed Mama's quite nice. Light onshore springs up at 10am. Only one surf this day.

Evening everyone played pool and Yatzee. First real solid sleep for all. Full moon.

Day 10

Swell up a bit 4'-6'. Surf Mama's as Peck and Hames see Turtles closing out.
Self - longest deepest tube ever. Unreal.
Peck - inside biggest box barrel of life. Rides for 3 seconds before getting caught.
Hames - great ride in. Sitting in the pocket screaming for 100m. All exit water thoroughly stoked.

PM Went to Harbour, not too good so to bike back to Mama's via channel (small harbour). Slight cross-shore, 4'-8'. Waves a bit crappy at takeoff but sucking to sheet glass soon after.

I get tube of lifetime - better than am. 6'wave, very fast. Snake along at full pelt as wave winds and stands up. Decide to take tube. Heart in throat. Entry requires careful positioning on face and then basically backdoor at full speed. Slight splash on face at entry of tube then the barrel opens up. Inside huge winding cavern for 30m minimum. Very, very deep!. Perfectly clean. Exit at full pace and turns around to see Hames standing on the reef inshore (getting cleaned up by the set) and screaming. Wave of lifetime. 200m paddle back to peak with heart absolutely pumping.

As of 8pm smile has not disappeared. Creases developing. Cheeks aching.

Evening - shared beers with Joe and Darcie.

Special mention: Hames pays first reef tax instalment.

Day 11

Ombok Tuju.

At dawn swell appears same as last 4 days. We guess the wind will stay offshore all day so arrange boat to Ombok Tuju. On boat are: Barry - Sth Africa, Matt - NZ, Chris and Dianne ("you can come too tc") - Sydney, Serge - Swiss and us. Departed 9:30 and 1hr + to get to destination. Arrived with tide still too high and very few waves breaking. After an hour or so things start swinging. 6'-8'+ peaks swinging from outside in. Beautiful scenery next to cliff (not unlike Cunns) covered in jungle.

Waves of note:
Self: 2nd wave Huge deep bottom turn x 2 plus cutbacks into soup. 8'+ drop.
Peck: 3 great waves 8'-10' drops including long all the way to shore.
Hames: 10'drop from inside peak. Big bottom turns.

Wipeouts
Peck: outstanding. Got to bottom of huge wave then let guard down during bottom turn. Speed wobbles, lost board and got 2nd worst licking since arrival in Indo. Followed up by having to paddle through two huge whitewaters.
Hames: Spun late into 10' wave. Got to feet too late. Lost it in tube (immediately after takeoff) then got sucked over. Scene from side is spectacular to say the least - Hames's spreadeagled body and board cartwheeling in lip over huge tube. However got let off very lightly - would have made gaspingly good footage.
Self: Didn't get around one monster ball of foam after making huge drop. Tried and tried but just ran out of legs and got swallowed. Lots of lung exercise.

Day 12

Self: Motor bike to Serade to call missus. Nearly got taken out by truck driver playing chicken. Won't be phoning home again.

Peck and Hames: Swell still small. Surf Harbour (Hames in my short john). Lots of clean small waves 2'-4'.
I surfs Mama's after return from Serade same size. Arvo lunch and sleep as per usual.

3:30pm to Harbour. Paddle out into 6'-8'cross-shore, hideously dangerous pumping surf. Nowhere safe. No waves caught. Paddle home across harbour avoiding two boats and several turtles. Scramble onto reef, walk along beach in hot sun. I paddled across small harbour to Mama's again, got one 6' wave and came in exhausted.

Two bottle night as rising swell shows potential for tomorrow.

Day 13

Huge. Too big. At dawn the peak at Mama's looking insane 10'-12' minimum fast tubing top to bottom, absolutely masses of water. Just too heavy.
High tide brings waves over road and causes dismantling of some houses. Huge amount of debris in surf - also sand making waves appear flat grey.

Joe paddles out to amazement of all. Catches two waves from way outside and comes in. Bravery Award.

Plenty of spare time today. Several midday sleeps 9:30am-3pm. Play with Sari (5yo daughter of one of the workers. Hack heaps of Gudangs. No surf day.

Day 14

Wow! 6'-8' Mama's. Glassy and fast. Several huge tubes scored. AM best surf 3hrs.
Self: four barrels one particularly memorable for speed and gaping cavern. In long enough to relax and enjoy the scenery.
Hames gets series of nice waves including one (not out) barrel which finally pitched into the middle of his back and hammered him.
Peck surfs 8'0" stab and steer. Got three very good waves.

Out again immediately post breakfast. Wind picked up and finally too strong. Howling up the faces of massive walls. Very difficult takeoffs lead to Peck providing reef with more flesh. Finally come in for lunch at 1pm totally exhausted for about 5hrs surfing.

Full Mama's crew were out today to see the show.

Day 15

Sunrise Hames and I quick 4' Mama's.
Hames gets quite a few very nice ones.
I take a disgraceful wipout losing it on an overly ambitious top turn, falling upside down into face and then going over the falls feet first but backwards. Reef tax.

Peck surfs 4' Turtles on own .

9am Ombok Tuju: Joe & Darcie, Serge and Andre and us.
Surf 12'+, distance from lip to bottom of bowl is immeasurable. 4 to 5 times overhead.

Joe reigns supreme taking some huge waves.
Hames loses board. Drama. Very lucky not to get washed into cliff or onto reef. Long swim. 20 mins to locate board. Joe paddles in to assist. Meanwhile Peck and I are still on boat waiting to see if any emergency action is required. Finally Hames finds board, paddles back to boat and gets loan of Joe's 8'0".

When all is again in order Peck and I head into lineup.
Hames finishes with 4-6 waves.
Myself 4 and
Peck: surfing 7'0" Tribal spear, bides his time, waits for right one and takes it (every bit 12'). Late on take off (board too small?) gets to feet, free falls, lands on board, makes it to bottom and manages to turn around soup to safety. Everyone screaming - absolutely stoked. Wave of the day. Wave of a lifetime.

This surf was intense, magnificent and may prove to be the most memorable ever.

Beer- Hames and Peck 4 bottles each

Day 16

Small Mama's 4'. Alone for 2hrs (as not part of previous night record binge) got a few pleasant ones. Hames out at 9:30 for a few more. Peck very easy start to the day.

11:30 Peck and I surf small Turtles, quite nice although I take two hidings through being too slack.

3 bottle evening. Meal includes nice 'hot' soup. Music John Lee Hooker.

Day 17

7am. Peck and I surf Harbour 4'. Tide too low. Few fun waves but inside is too dangerous to go for any real thrills.

Hames surfs inside Turtles pioneering a new takeoff spot . Fast sucking 4'-6'. No crowd issues (even with Darko - the Dutchie- in the water) 15-20 waves had.

11am-1:30pm Hames Mama's 6' surfing off inside peak at full tide and racing through. Best surf so far. Provides excellent show for other crew in water and coupled with mornings surf adds to existing awe.

12:30-2:30 Gado Gado. Mama was up all night preparing the dish following my request (could have been a disaster as another trip to Ombok Tuju was considered). Great food.

Evening: Joe and Darcia are leaving tomorrow. Play pool at Pondox Hexa next door. ( NB Accom there is generally 25,000rp night although some 20,000rp rooms). Borneng and I win one championship match to thrills from crowd but eventually get beaten by Greg (Darwin) and a puncie pom. We, Joe, Greg and Coxy stay up real late (12:30am) strap and drink back at hut and generally have an excellent farewell for Joe.

Very funny episode at close of evening when it is realised that we're all extremely pissed and dry throated and we don't have any water. I approached aqua fridge but found it locked, so went to Sandy (fat sleepy boy) and asked for water. He said yes but then rolled over back to dreamland. Hari (our security man) who unknown to us had been watching from a distance spoke and presto, 2 bottles of aqua were gained. Sandy remembered nothing the next day.

New beer record: 6+ bottle/head.

Day 18

We woke up late feeling hungover and dry. Slipped down to Turtles for a big shitty albeit brief session. Getting the cobwebs out. Rain AM meant the tracks were very slippery on the bikes. Made for side slippin good fun. No accidents. Borneng has habit of whistling when his bike gets out of control.

9am Joe and Darcie leave. General sadness.

Late AM siestas waiting for the high tide and Mama's,

PM Hames scores magnificient Mama's at full tide for second day running. Perfect express train walls breaking right through 6'-8'. Plenty of waves, no crowd issues. All time. Circle work with Coxy.

Day 19

Hames to Turtles in morning. 4'. Low tide, mostly closing out. Urchin spine through bootie into foot but extracted successfully in water.

Peck and I go to prawn farm to witness harvesting then return to score Turtles the best its been. 4'-6' high tide in the afternoon.

Hames gets more epic Mama's in afternoon. 6' and hairy, down the line. Gets a dream ride in. Beers on the beach at sunset.

Day 20 (last day)

Hames and I paddle out early for a final surf at Mama's knowing that the tide is probably still too low. The surf is big again and hitting the reef is a real concern. We both score a few 6'-8' waves but surf cautiously, pulling out before risky sections. A few big sets come through an my board gets cracked paddling through one. I come in.

Hames stays out on the peak and the swell picks up. Conditions are absolutely perfect although the clear shallow water keeps reef awareness very high. Finally a set comes through which Hames rates as the biggest at Mama's. He is in the perfect position and hasn't yet scored a clean barrel for the trip. Serious decision time. All waves in the set are perfect, huge, hollow and long. Plenty of tube room. A wipeout however could be serious, maybe life threatening. Hames sits on the spot and remembers the great waves he's had over the last three weeks. Tonight he'll be catching a plane back to his family. He's 35 years old.

He watches six 10'+ monsters slip under him and race on down the reef. Any one of them could have been the wave of his life, or death. The set passes. He turns towards shore, paddles smoothly and catches a clean 6 footer into the beach. No regrets.

Load up gear onto Mama's Kijang. We'd paid her 250,000rp trip direct to airport. Very sad at departure. Strongly miss bike riders (esp Borneng) and Hari. Don't go via Pelabuhanratu. Leave at 10:30 am, stop for lunch and shopping. Very competent driver (unlike 1st trip) making ride quite relaxing. Arrive at airport in good shape at about 4pm. Plenty of time.

Hang at Qantas lounge (c/o Hames). Make some calls home. Have a few beers and a shower. Miss call to plane. Eventually an official comes to get us. Once again Peck is last on board.