journal entries

Jul 05: [DW] Land of Pharaohs

Jun 05: [TS] Crazy Cairo

May 05: [TS] Sudan

Apr 05: [DW] Serengeti

Apr 05: [TS] Bandit Zone

Mar 05: [DW] Rwanda

Mar 05: [TS] Zanzibar

Mar 05: [TS] Into Interior

Mar 05: [DW] Ethiopia

Feb 05: [TS] Nile Challenge

Feb 05: [TS] The Pilgrimage

Jan 05: [TS] Mtwara

Jan 05: [DW] Tanzania

Jan 05: [TS] Wheel Clamped

Dec 04: [TS] Madagascar

Dec 04: [DW] Malawi

Dec 04: [TS] Mozambique

Nov 04: [DW] Okavango Delta

Nov 04: [DW] Zimbabwe

Nov 04: [DW] Botswana

Nov 04: [DW] Sesriem & on

25 Oct 04: [DW] To Sun City

22 Oct 04: [TS] Etosha Nat Park

18 Oct 04: [TS] Namibia

2 Oct 04: [TS] Lesotho

28 Sep 04: [DW] Wild Animals

24 Sep 04: [DW] Wild Coast

16 Sep 04: [TS] Garden Route

9 Sep 04: [TS] Arrival

Aug 04: [TS] Intro

Port St Johns: The Wild Coast
24 September 2004

Just heard Tom's last report and thought I'd clear up a couple of matters. Yes its true! I can speak whale, but not that fluent in ostrich. however can get by with short conversations. Secondly, out of the 1001 ways to use a broken mirror book, broken mirrors 347: are used in SOS situations, especially in the Kalahari desert. They attract rescue missions by flashing possible or potential rescuers, using the sun. Oh yeah and what has Tom got against the whales?? Well after leaving Port Elizabeth (following a big night at the casino to watch Hewitt in the US open final), we did some more coastal touring, along the "wild coast" as its called to a place called Port St. Johns.

On the way, were some absolutely magnificent spots. One favorite was a little village called Cintsa where we stumbled across a 2 story bungalow right on the beach. It was decorated with beautiful timber furniture, one piece being a long table that would seat about 20. So sure enough we put it to use with Tom being at one end and I the other, having dinner, almost needing a telephone to talk. This place was amazing, the natural beauty breathtaking, not to mention the beach and the people.

On our drive one day, we stopped at an isolated shop to buy a drink. We saw he sold pies there and asked for one. The owner called out to "Millie", his native maid, who came from the back of the shop, to serve u when he was standing right next to them. Ah it must be great to be the king. We stayed in the kombi the other night and discovered after lifting the roof, that there was another double bed. We were pretty happy about this extra space but still played scissors paper rock for choice of bed. Tom's one up. We have been eating lots of seafood and doing our fair share of sampling the local wine and beer. All fantastic but we suspect our choices may be limited the further north we go. We were in a bar the other night (at Port St Johns),and asked the local south African what the population of his town was. He answered about 250 to 300 white people and left it at that. We found out the next day that there were over 2000 people, white and black. Without being critical we observe the conditioning of people here. The speed of change with some and the slowness of acceptance with others.

Some towns we went through were all black people. They were so alive, people bustling, markets & stalls everywhere and plenty of curious glances thrown our way.(and vise versa). They have a friendly nature & usually give us an enthusiastic wave as we drive along the roads. From Port St Johns we turned north towards the Drakensberg ranges where we thought we could do some hiking and go through into Losotho. Stayed at a place called Underberg for a couple of nights while we surveyed the scene. On the first day we got a guy to take us up through the Sani pass into Lesotho so we could access the road to see if our vehicle could make the trip. Not a chance. Only 4 wheel drives could get up with the average gradient being 3-1 and some places 2-1. That is for every 2 meters forward, you elevate 1 meter. The road/ pass was fairly spectator with great views. We saw Eland on the way up. After a couple of casual checkpoints, we entered the Kingdom of Lesotho. Had lunch at the highest pub on the African continent, just over 3000m I think.

We went on to a village of round mud huts with thatched roofs. Michael our guide, took us into one of these, that of someone he knew. It was fairly basic with dirt floor and fire place in the center, no chimney. Two blokes sitting out the front, shepherds I think, while the women who was quiet hospitable, shared bread off the fire and beer made from sorghum. A great experience. A full day by the time we got back down the mountain and a few beers with the locals. The next morning we got backpacks, some food and other supplies and got Michael to take us up to the start of a 5 day, 60km trek. There was shelter huts along the way where we spent the nights. Before leaving we were told (by no less than 5 people) that a huge snow storm was approaching, but this was our time and snow would be welcomed if it came, said us. We had spectator weather. Sunshiney days all the way through. Just quickly on this. waterfalls, crystal clear pools (which we swam in) spectacular mountain views , grassy hill sides, petrified forest, cave with ancient paintings. Surprised a family of baboons one day as we crested a hill. About 30 of them, 20 meters away near a water hole. They sauntered off. On our map was marked a pub 3km past the end of our trek. It ended up being a resort where an extremely pleasant afternoon completed the trip.