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| Saturday 13 September We had an early morning tube ride to catch a short flight from LHR to Belfast City airport, where we were met by Neil with four year old Cameron and whisked off to nearby Bangor where Jude and two year old Oliver were waiting. Only for a cup of tea as it turned out, before we were off again in two cars, this time headed for Port Ballintrae (PBT to the locals), gateway to the world heritage Giant's Causeway. They don't call Ireland the Emerald Isle for nothing. Green rolling hills punctuated by hedgerows, stone walls and what we would think of as heritage buildings but here they doubtless consider modern. Arriving at PBT the first thing that hit us was the sharp salt and seaweed tang in the air. Set above a pretty horseshoe bay with a sandy beach, Neil and Jude had arranged for us all to stay at a holiday apartment owned by family friends. After a quick lunch we geared up with babies in backpacks and plenty of warm clothes under Jude's strict instruction. Turned out we didn't need our coats: the sun came out, there was no wind and we were soon stripping off and sweating on a perfect Autumn day. It was a delightful walk to the Causeway, like something out of a Famous Five book, and we introduced Charlie to wild blackberries (much to the detriment of his clothes). An ancient volcanic basalt feature, the Causeway looks eerily artificial with its regular hexagonal columns stepping down from 100m cliffs (reminiscent of the coast around Red Rocks in Wellington) towards the sea and nearby Scotland. The area is certainly worthy of its World Heritage status.
Back in PBT Jude cooked a hearty meal while Neil and Dave talked about mountain bike rides around Sydney. Dave met Neil during his time at ABN Amro and they became regular riders. Jude was living in Sydney when they met and she lured Neil back to Ireland to get married and start a family a bit closer to her parents.
The next day was back to grey, but the rain held off until late afternoon, but which time we had visited the Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge, taken in Sheep Island and Whitepark Beach and had a quick wander around Dunluce Castle where an archery display was in progress.
We lunched at the famous Bushmill Inn where Dave managed to complete his compulsory Guinness. Then it was back to Belfast, where Neil and Jude provided a quick tour including the Europa Hotel (with the dubious distinction of being the most bombed in Europe, the Crown Bar (the most famous pub in Belfast with a fabulous interior – unfortunately it wasn't child friendly so we couldn't stay for a pint), the College, City Hall, the leaning Albert Clock (a miniature Big Ben). They then took us through a Protestant suburb to view some of the Loyalist Murals on Newtown Ards Rd, which give a sense of the depth of feeling in this divided community. Then it was past the imposing gates of the Stormont (Parliament) and back to Bangor just as the rain began.
It continued through Monday, but Jude and her father took us out for a lovely drive through Bangor and down the Portaferry Peninsular, with lunch at a café in a big garden centre, much to the kids' enjoyment. We hid Charlie in the big flower pots. Then it was time to say goodbye and head back to London.
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