Taking Your Puppy Home
When you first take home your puppy, there will be many new and uncertain things, both for you and your puppy. It will be the first time he will be away from his mother and his brothers and sisters. This will be a very traumatic time for the puppy and he will need lots of TLC.
HOUSING 
A box containing plenty of soft, warm bedding, in a warm, draught free spot is essential for the first few weeks, preferably in a laundry or a weatherproof outhouse. A soft, safe toy will help ease his loneliness. Some say that the ticking of a clock near his bed will also help. His box is his own special place where he will go when he wants to rest or to escape from too much handling and the place where he will take all his treasures. It is his refuge and he should never be dragged out of it. As he grows, it will be safe for him to sleep in a kennel outside, but make certain that all fences are secure and that he cannot dig his way out. Beagles are scent hounds and never develop road sense. They will always follow a scent regardless of traffic or other dangers. When not at home, the most sensible idea is to place him in his own enclosure. This will prevent him digging up the garden and keep him safe if someone unwittingly leaves the gate open.
REST
Your puppy is still a baby and needs plenty of rest. Don't over-tire him by playing with him for too long and do not disturb his sleep. Constant interruptions can make him nervy and irritable. Young children must be taught to leave the puppy alone during his rest time.
HOUSE TRAINING
This need not be difficult if there is perseverance and consistency. Try to arrange a close and easy exit to the garden. Always take the puppy outside after a meal, after a sleep and whenever you notice that he is restless or uncomfortable. Always take him to the same spot and praise him when he obliges. If he makes a mistake, scold him and take him outside at once. It is not necessary to smack him, he will soon learn from the tone of your voice if you are pleased or cross and in a short time he will be endeavouring to please you.
GENERAL TRAINING
A Beagle is a strong-willed, high-spirited dog and if you are to have a happy relationship with him, you must be firm from the start. When you are training him use just a few essential words and always the same words—his name, no, come, sit, stay. Most young pups come readily when they are called and soon learn their own name. However, they are easily distracted and you may need to use a small piece of food to get him to come to you at first. Always praise him when he comes. Never call a dog to you to punish him, next time he will stay away. It is not necessary to smack, a tightly rolled newspaper tapped sharply against your leg and a firm 'no' will generally stop some particular mischief, but if he still persists, remove him from the spot and divert his attention to something else. As a baby puppy he needs safe toys to play with and cut his teeth on, but make sure he cannot reach anything that could injure him. Make sure he does not fall or jump from chairs and furniture as this could damage his shoulders during his early months.
THE LEAD
When your puppy is used to his collar you can begin getting him used to the lead. Attach the lead and let it hang loosely, call the pup to follow you, using food if necessary. He will soon get the idea. If you intend walking him off the lead, start right at the beginning, when he is little and will follow you readily. Try to avoid chasing him if he runs off, run the other way and call him and he will most likely run after you. Do not allow your Beagle to run loose near busy roads, one should remember that the Beagle is a hunting hound and loves to follow an interesting scent.
TRAVELLING
A few dogs suffer from car sickness which is very distressing for the dog and his owner. It can almost always be avoided by taking care in the beginning, once a dog associates the car with the unpleasantness of being sick, it becomes psychological and is very hard to cure. Take the puppy for short rides at first, it is most important to avoid sudden braking and sudden acceleration, and go around corners and curves very gently See that the puppy has some air.
GENERAL HEALTH
Naturally your puppy's health is the top priority and since prevention is better than cure, one of your first duties is to register your puppy as a patient and yourself as a client with a Veterinary Surgeon of your choice. It is wise to take your pup for a regular check-up. If you have any worries about the health of your Beagle, consult your Veterinary Surgeon, he will also advise on the necessary booster injections. A bitch puppy will normally come into season for the first time between six and twelve months of age, the season lasts three weeks. During this time she must be safely confined away from male dogs. It is advisable to consult your Veterinary Surgeon about having your bitch spayed.
WORMING
Your puppy should have been wormed for a number of worms before you pick him up. Worming will be an ongoing task to ensure you Beagle stays healthy. Talk to your breeder about suitable worming programs. If your Beagle eats well but does not put on condition, take a specimen of his droppings to your Vet for examination.
GROOMING
Puppies under six months should only be bathed if absolutely necessary and then with the utmost care, being sure to keep him warm and dry him as soon as possible. Adult Beagles can be bathed about every three months with a mild dog shampoo, being sure to remove all traces of soap from the hound's coat. Being a clean, short-coated hound, the Beagle does not require a great deal of grooming. A regular brushing with a hound glove or brush is recommended. Nails should be kept short. If your hound is having plenty of walks on concrete footpaths, it should not become necessary to have his nails clipped.
CARE OF YOUR PUP
The first six months of a puppy's life are most important, and correct feeding, care and training can lay the foundations for a sound and healthy dog.
FEEDING
It is advisable to continue the diet that the puppy is used to for at least a few days as any immediate alteration may cause diarrhoea. There is no need to give additives if you feed good quality processed food. Talk to your breeder about the feeding times for your Beagle. An occasional fresh brisket bone or fresh chicken wing or frame is good for the teeth. It must be fresh —NOT COOKED.
FEEDING RULES
Adjust the amount of food to the dog's needs. If food is not eaten within ten minutes, remove the plate. Beagles are notoriously greedy and once fully grown do not overfeed them. Keep him in good condition, a fat Beagle is unsightly and frequently unhealthy. Plenty of fresh clean water should always be available.
TEETHING
Somewhere around 3 months of age your puppy will lose his milk teeth and gain his permanent teeth. His mouth may be tender at this time and he will need plenty of hard biscuits and a raw marrow bone or knuckle bone to help remove loose teeth. Sometimes the milk teeth are reluctant to make way for the permanent teeth. If very stubborn it may be necessary to have the teeth examined by a Veterinarian. Tartar build up on your hound's teeth should not be a problem if he receives hard dog biscuits as a part of his regular diet.
IMMUNISATION
Your puppy should have had a first injection for Distemper, Hepatitis, Parvo-virus and Kennel Cough.
PLEASE NOTE: IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT YOU DO NOT TAKE PUPPY INTO PUBLIC PLACES UNTIL 2 WEEKS AFTER SECOND NEEDLE.