Argos loudspeakers | series cross-overs

 

Conversation with designer of The Ultimate Monitor

Andy G wrote:

Dear Sir,

I am a DIY loudspeaker builder "down-under". I have just seen your design for "the ultimate monitor" and it is so good to see someone else realising the importance of diffraction problems, and finding ways to overcome them.

Also, it is great to see a commercial company actually spending the time to use a series cross-over.
I have often felt I have been fighting a loosing battle trying to explain to others that once you get them right, they just simply sound better !!!

I don't have measuring equipment yet, (its a maybe, later, thing) and do all my x-o tuning by ear.

I would be very interested in knowing how you went about tuning your series x-o, and how much more complicated the circuit is than a normal simple series x-o? ( no, I don't expect you would send the actual diagram ;-), maybe just comments on what you have added.
It would also be interesting to know if the main cap and coil values are anywhere near the values predicted by my series x-o spreadsheet.

Perhaps you could do me the honour of looking at some of the very minor work I have done pulling together information on series x-o's??
Maybe you could even provide something to add that would help other DIYers work with series x-os??

my web site is 
http://users.tpg.com.au/users/gradds/   please feel free to browse !

Thanks for any insights you feel you can offer.

Yours,
Andy Graddon

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Hi Andy,
Nice to make your acquaintance. I looked at your website and it is a nice collection with some good stuff in it.

You're right, series first-order filters DO just sound better, but it's not easy to get them there! I haven't read everything on your website, so some of what I have to say may be duplicated there, but I will make some brief comments about my experiences.

1. Time coherence between the drivers is absolutely critical. If your drivers are not time coherent, the crossover is NEVER going to work right. This is ESPECIALLY true for first-order filters. For this reason alone, you should buy a cheap MLS package just so you can measure step functions and bring the drivers into time alignment. You will be astonished by how much difference this makes.

2. The rest of the task is conceptually simple, but very difficult to implement. You have to create a "package" or "black box" out of each driver, making its amplitude response, impedance, and phase as flat as possible PRIOR TO adding the actual crossover elements. If you do this successfully, and have perfect time alignment, then the crossover elements themselves will be perfect based on simple math. In other words, forget about playing around with the crossover elements to get the response right-- they aren't the problem! FIRST make sure the "black boxes" containing the drivers are as close as possible to flat-response resistive loads, and matched for levels. Only then should you actually insert the reactive elements, and by then it is a no-brainer to get them right. Also note that all of this MUST be done with the drivers mounted in the actual cabinet they are to be used in; otherwise you are just wasting your time.

Of course, this isn't nearly as easy as it sounds, as no driver is flat to begin with, neither in level nor impedance nor phase, and there are nearly an infinite number of ways of going about making them flat. I don't have any good suggestions for a "cookbook" approach. Mine was to start from basics, like the zobel on the woofer, and then to progressively modify based on what was needed by testing continuously with level, impedance, and phase plots, and lot of intuition thrown in on the side. Once again, an MLS system is invaluable for this-- I can't even imagine how many different tests I've run on this one design, but I'm sure it's in the thousands. Once I got something that looked good on the individual-driver level, I would assemble the actual crossover and test it too. If that looked good, I would listen to it for a long time until I had a handle on what was wrong with it, then go back and do it all over again. This went on for years, and I don't know how to shorten it. There are so many potential variations in circuit topology that it is impossible to go straight to the best one the first time.

Of course, the most important rule is Einstein's: "Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler." You have to continuously ask yourself, "is there a way to achieve this with fewer parts and/or less complexity than I'm using right now?" Also, your ears are the final arbiter of what sounds right-- when you get down into the "fineness" levels that are required for world-class performance, it is often not possible to measure the subtleties anymore. For example, many of the variations I tried had slightly better impedance and phase plots than the final version did, but didn't sound as good because the circuit was needlessly complicated. The slight inductive rise at the high end is a compromise I chose to live with, because in the end, the acoustic output takes precedence over impedance and phase flatness. (Also, a slightly inductive impedance is very "amplifier-friendly", so it doesn't bother me much.) Please note that my perspective as a designer is not relative to "average" but relative to "perfect"-- throughout the entire mid-band, including the crossover region, the impedance and phase of the final version is still orders of magnitude better than almost anything else in the world!

I don't use actual "design" software packages, as I like to have a good fundamental mathematical understanding in my own mind of what's going on in the crossover, and why. Maybe that's old-fashioned, and certainly it's time-consuming, but I find that in the end, the result is better than a monkey (even a highly trained one) can do on a computer. The problem is that choosing the best topology out of thousands of possible variations is still up to the monkey-- the computer doesn't have any intuitive understanding of what might work better or why, and certainly can't suggest what to try next. Having said that, it is true that most designers use the software. It's a lot easier to get to 90% of optimum in a few short sessions using generic solutions, without having to do any thinking at all. It's that last 10% that's the killer, and at this level, that last 10% is the ENTIRE difference between a merely competent design, and something that is truly world-class.

Hope you find this useful, and feel free to post it on your website. If you do, I would appreciate a link to our site as well. Cheers and hope to see you around,
Karl

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