Pedalling Perth to Melbourne
Ian Hartshorn    March-April 2004

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3 years ago the thought of a long trip on my trike was to go around Australia, maybe. 2 years ago, something a bit more realistic for me. Due to work commitments and naturally money, fly to Perth and pedal back home. I have family over there, so, a quick visit and then start pedalling, sounds great. 1 year ago I started telling family and friends what I was going to do, so there was no backing down now.

During the last 12 months before setting off, I had to decide on whether to, buy new camping gear (due to weight and size), get a trailer or hang everything on the trike where it would fit, workout a realistic and comfortable distance I could travel per day, and getting myself organised to be away from home for two months.

MR Components built Ultra Swift recumbent trike + trailer

As you can see from the above image, I decided to get a trailer - 2 wheeler, and use my existing camping gear. 5 bottle holders up front, 4 for water and 1 for metho (the metho is for the cooker not drinking), 2 x 5 lt water containers and 2 panniers. Some time ago I changed the 21 gears to 63 by adding a 3 speed internal hub, excessive, yes, but I did find that I had a gear for every occasion.

Having 8 weeks off work (long service) and Perth to Melbourne approx 3600kms, that worked out to be 60kms per day for 60 days. Leaving at the beginning of March, I should be home about the end of April. Going across the Nullabor I should be able to do more than 60kms a day, and build up some time for siteseeing or what ever. This is definately not going to be a race against the clock. A diary was kept up to date. I would buy a meal a day where possible, and stay in caravan parks or the side of the road...............Time to do it.

General info -
Caravan Parks - Best...Croakers in Esperence $14 a night, even had shade cloth on ground for tent. - Value for money...Wagin $5 a night, council run - Dearest...Queenscliff $17 a night, football oval facilities. - All unpowered sites
Rarely did I go more than 1 hour without stopping for a break - minimum 5 - 10 mins
Piece of equipment I thought a luxury, now a must - tripod stool - 750gms, Rays tent city, I think $12 pk of 2
Head winds were strong at times, there was always some time of the day when I could cruise at 15+kph
At no stage of the trip, did I finish a days ride due to fatigue or soreness.
Talking to a number of truckies, the 2 flags were visible at a reasonable distance.
The most asked question - With being so low, can trucks see you? Response - NO, but their drivers can.
The 2nd most asked question - Aren't you scared of the big trucks when passing you? Response - NO, I've found car drivers to be more dangerous.
Lowest average speed for a day 11.16kph (81kms) - Highest 19.85kph (123kms)- Trip 14.78kph - My expectation 15kph
Shortest distance for a day 71kms - Longest 132kms - Top speed 62.7kph - excessive, no, not with commonsense, most steep hills I had slowed to the 50s.
Food carried - cereal, sm tin fish, baked beans, noodles, pkt rice+ (meal), tin fruit salad, coffee, sugar, pwdr milk, bread rolls, quantities varying - snacks - arnotts shapes, muesli bars, fruit bars, nut & fruit mix, barley sugar, always nibbling when stopped.
My weight when started, 72kg with overalls and boots, now 65kg - lost 5kg allowing 2kg for overalls & boots.
Being a social rider on Sundays and in my 50s, a long tour for riders should not be out of the question.(if I can, you can)
The future - A trip to Queensland could be on the cards in 18 months/2 years time.

Starting the trip on the 4th March from my mother's in Rockingham(2) - about 50kms south of Perth(1)- heading south to Mandurah then off the Highway to Dwellingup(3), onto Williams(4) then Wagin(5). 240kms travelled so far in 3 days, my 1st pit stop on day 3, a screw holding the gear lever handle had come loose. Also I was beginning to realise that 60kms per day was too short.

I had been told by a few people, that doing a long trip it's best to have a day off after 3 or 4 days riding, to let the body adjust, and I'll feel better in the coming weeks. Well I don't know if it works, but it sounds reasonable, so the 4th day was spent around Wagin. A visit to the historic village where many old building in the district had been reassembled, back to town and do some shopping, washing, fill out the post cards, and also time to go through what I had, and start discarding a few items.

Monday 8th - 120kms done and it felt comfortable, having head winds most of the day. In fact, I've only had head winds since starting. The last 40kms I had a cross wind, which helped me to cruise along about 20kph after turning east at Broomehill(6). Next day was to Jerramungup(7) and onto Hwy 1. The 7th day heading to Ravensthorpe was my 1st day of rain, intermittent showers, enough to get me wet, then let me dry out, only to repeat the process 10 - 12 times throughout the day. One of the steepest downhills so far, approx 2.5kms long and clocking 58.9kph.

Munglinup was the next nights stop after Ravensthorpe. Met a German(?) guy already camped across from the roadhouse, he's been travelling for the past 9 months around Oz and New Zealand, now making his way up to Darwin. Doing most of his travelling by bike, with the occasional lift by truck. Talking about trucks, one section of a road-train. Esperence(8) a great spot to have a day off, so I did. Doing the usual tourist bit by foot, plus shopping, washing, post cards etc. Talking to people in the caravan park it seems there are 4 people cycling across the Nullabor - 1 heading this way on a trike and 3 heading East on "normal bikes". Winds are still South Easterly - great, a tail wind to Norseman(9).

Norseman just over 200kms from Esperence. 26 kms from Esperence is a place called Gibson, with the Northerly winds now blowing, it takes nearly 3 hours to reach. Fortunately the winds die down in the afternoon, and a quick stop at the Grass Patch Hotel is refreshing, then on to Salmon Gums for the night. The Northerly winds continued the next day followed by a thunder storm. Again I was fortunate as I had made it to Norseman, set up camp, had a feed at a roadhouse, and was ready for sleep when I'd say the edge of the storm hit Norseman.

Tuesday 16th - day 12 - Time to get onto the Eyre Hwy and cross the Nullabor. A misconception many people have about the Nullabor - it is not a desert - just a treeless plain. Like most mornings, if I didn't leave early, then it will be a late start, as most people love to talk about something that's different, "the trike". It's about 10:45am, I've visited the post office and supermarket, now it feels like it's time for lunch, so into the roadhouse for a burger. The wind is starting to pick up a bit now, getting gusty too. Now you can almost bet your goolies which direction the wind is blowing. Yep, South Easterly.

Two and a bit days to reach Balladonia(10) which I thought I might have done in two days. Winds were gusty and at times I was finding it hard to keep the speed above 10kph on the flat. Not many fences here either. Having 15 litres of water and 4 days food adds to the weight. Balladonia to Caiguna(11) has the longest straight section of road between them. Winds have changed to southerly and are a help at times, averaging over 17kph for two days. Stopping at the Caiguna roadhouse c/park about midday for a much earnt shower. Later in the afternoon I met Dennis on his Logo trike, he had flown to Adelaide and is on his way home to Perth. Naturally we expounded the virtues of trikes "V" bikes for touring, and of cause the trike won. Dennis also mentioned that a guy with his horse and wagon were on the road about two days away, and to keep an eye out for him.

On to Madura(12), the S.E. winds are back strong and gusty. Over the past couple of weeks I 've noticed that the winds tend to start about 9am, ease up about 3pm, then at times pick up again in the late afternoon or evening. As this part of the country is considered flat - not when one is pedalling, you are either going up or down. One particular rise in the road I decided to put in the effort to maintain 6kph with the head winds, an oncoming roadtrain passed, and left me sitting looking at my speedo at "0" - bugger - after doing 107kms, and 50kms before Madura I set up camp.

Next day the winds were just as strong, into Madura roadhouse for lunch. What a strange place to put a roadhouse - for a cyclist - Half way down the escarpment I had to use my brakes, I can not remember the last time I had used them as the wind generally did that job for me. After lunch, and about 20kms up the road, I decided to have afternoon smoko (yes, I'm a smoker), out with my trusty tripod stool, out with the coffee scroll and can of coke I'd just bought. Watching the traffic go by, I heard "PSSSSH" so I sat there watching the rear tyre on the trike go down. After smoko, it was in with a new tube, the old having a split in a weak spot. Moving on, I could tell I was getting closer to the guy in the wagon, as the horse poo on the road was getting fresher, apparently he does about 30km per day and has been on the road for 8 years.

Monday 22nd - day 18 - Missed the guy with the wagon, (no more horse poo on the road) presumably yesterday afternoon. The rest/parking areas are pretty big in WA, he must have parked near the back of one, in the afternoon. I did meet Dave another guy on a trike with a trailer, a little different though, 1500cc 6cyl Honda Goldwing, the trike kit and trailer coming from the USA. Whilst having a chat, one of the many wide-loads came along, 7 metres wide. It's a body off a dump truck, the type they use in open cut mines and put the ore into, imagine the size of the truck it sits on. Again the winds were blowing, strongest so far, and getting stronger, hard going at 7-8kph at certain times, and the road here is like a billiard table. I should be cruising around the 20kph mark, 2nd lowest daily average of the trip 11.74kph. Pitched my tent at Mundrabilla roadhouse c/park about 3:30pm.

Eucla(13) close to the Sth Aust. border. Sections of the road are used for the Royal Flying Doctor Service. Climbing the Eucla pass took awhile. Back up the escarpment, a gradual slope at the start and getting steeper, about 5km long, the last 1km took about 15 minutes. Knowing there is a coldy at the top (flavoured milk) it was a long 15 mins. After lunch and a little farther along the road is Border Village, another smoko never goes astray. Off again, but it wasn't long before Andy caught up to me to say g'day. One of the three riders I had heard about, they had spent most of the day looking around Eucla and Border Village. We all set up camp at one of the Aussie Bight lookouts, about 25kms from Border Village.

Next day, Peter, Andy and Annie (2 wheelers with "bobs") had already taken off before I was up, we knew the weather was going to be, Northerly winds with temps possilbly getting into the 40s. We caught up with each other just after lunch, they had stopped in a rest area on the right side of the road, while I stopped at one on the left. Chatting to Peter I mentioned I would probably push on to Nullabor roadhouse(14), due to the easy going in the morning. Wrong, we took off together, and noticed a cool change, head winds getting stronger, 2 1/2 hrs we had had enough, about 3:30 we set up camp. The flies today were unreal, they seemed to be sitting on the side of the road, waiting for somebody to stop so they could pounce.

An early start to beat the flies before "they" get up, lunch time we reached Nullabor roadhouse, here we parted company. Mid afternoon a guy in a van heading west pulled up, only two reasons for this, either he wanted a chat or to dong me on the head and pinch my trike, as always it was a chat. E.L.Davidson (poet) has been travelling around, stopping when something looked interesting and chatted to people, after awhile it turned out we had met before, 1968-72 at Lightning Ridge (opals) My father and I were mining for opals, and he was selling fruit and vegies from his truck, it turned out that we were one of his customers.(good onya Snowy)

Friday 26th - day 22 - Flies are not as bad today. Stopped at Yalata roadhouse(15) for lunch, here I met a couple driving their A Model Ford to Perth for the annual Rally to be held over Easter. Over the next 2-3 weeks, I was able to see many of the old Fords, Austin Healeys, MGs, Morris and Austins, most were driven, but some on trailers, no doubt having their individual rallies in different places.

Nundroo roadhouse to Penong, about 80kms - going great in the morning averaging just over 22kph. At this rate I'll be having lunch in Penong, wrong again, 35kms to go and hot strong NE winds start blowing. You soon learn not to make plans or set a timetable for the day. It certainly felt like the hottest day of the trip. Riding along after having lunch on the side of the road, I could hear a popping sound coming from somewhere. Slowing down, I noticed little bubbles of bitumen on the road, and as I ran over them they would burst. Any shade I saw on the side of the road I would stop for a few minutes, this was generally about every 4-5kms. Finally arriving in Penong close to 3 o'clock.

Next day was raining, 2nd day of rain, which was ok, as it started after I had set off. While not heavy, it was constant and lasted for about 3 hours. Having lunch in Ceduna, then a quick ride around town, it was back on the road to Poochera. A few more showers for about an hour, and that was it. Stopping to set up camp on the side of the road, I noticed several items were slightly wet, but dried out quickly. Reaching Poochera next afternoon, it was reasonably uneventful, except for the surface of the road, nearly 50kms of what felt like riding on corrigated iron, this was on the shoulder of the road which was 1-2 metres wide. Here I avoided the shoulder as much as possible, no doubt drivers were annoyed as the shoulder looked good, and probably thought I should be on it. What a shocker.

Tuesday 30th - day26 - More rough road to Kyancutta(16), stopping here to buy some food and morning smoko. Chatting to a local, she said 3 attempts to fix the road over the past seven years, haven't made it any better.
Next day, a little morning drizzle, clearing before setting off. Gentle rolling hills, about 4 of them, a long way up and a long way down. Once getting off to check the wheels were free and pumped up, as I was sure I was going downhill, but looking back I could see I was climbing. An easy short day to Kimba(17), time to do some washing, check over trike etc.

From Kimba to Iron Knob for a late lunch, a great run nearly all day, cross winds were a help, I didn't want to stop on the side of the road today for lunch, as I was averaging around 20kph, reaching Iron Knob about 2pm. Two more of those wide-loads, this time I had to pull over and stop. After lunch on to Nutbush c/park for the night, it's also a convention center, in the middle of nowhere.

Port Augusta 40kms away, so an early lunch there. 20kms South, turn off the highway to Wilmington(18), up through "Horrocks Pass". A couple of kilometers off the highway, again I get off to check the wheels, and again I'm climbing, 21kms to Wilmington, 13kms up, getting steeper as I get to the top and doing 4kph up to the crest, then 8kms down, great, that's more like it. Large flocks of cockatoos around Wilmington, and they know how to make a noise. On the West side of Port Augusta, is salt bush and scrub, on the East side it is more grain and sheep country.

On the way to Peterborough(19) the next day, is a little spot called Willowie. For a place you could consider in the middle of nowhere, it has the best kept cemetery that I've seen. Orroroo, a nice town for lunch. Then Peterborough where the railway lines intersected from, Port Augusta, Burra, Broken Hill and Port Pirie. A lot of old stone houses and building in various states of condition, from restored to just foundations, are scattered throuhout this part of the state.

Sunday 4th April - day31 - Nice sunny day as most of the days have been, great for riding (very little wind). Stopping in Hallet for lunch, I realised it was Sunday and most country town stores are all close. Like most big city dwellers, one tends to take a lot of simple things for granted, just as well I have a few meals on board. On to Burra(20), a copper mining town, with the restoration work that has been done here, it reminded me of Maldon (Vic). The workmanship on most of the existing old building suggested this was quite a wealthy town in the good old days. Now is good time for a pizza and a beer.

Next stop from Burra was Morgan, stopping here for afternoon smoko on the banks of the Murray River. As soon as I thought about the Murray, I started thinking the trip was coming to an end, but not quite. Anyway I decided to continue to Waikerie(21), getting on the ferry at Morgan and crossing the Murray. What a contrast, on one side of the river, sheep and grain country, to orchards and vinyards on the other. Best daily average of 19.85kph for 123kms.

Up the next morning in Waikerie c/park, packed up and ready to go, I had a slow leaking tube, not flat but close. Out with the tube, found the hole, but couldn't find anything in the tyre. In with a new tube, fortune again, it is still up. The offending tube pricker most have removed itself. On to Renmark(22), having an easy ride all day, and after setting up camp, a walk along the Murray and check out the numerous house boats.

Wed 7th - day 34 - A bit of day-dreaming, as Victoria was only a short distance away, and getting closer to home. I have the time, should I make a quick dash to Sydney - an oncoming cyclist soon woke me up, a German guy coming from Sydney, on his way to Adelaide (he's another smoker). After wishing each other the best, it was along to Cullulleraine for afternoon smoko. Another 20kms farther on, I set up camp for the night. Great, that is till the morning.

Another good nights' sleep, packing up, next was the self-inflating mattress that had to be peeled from the tent floor. Bindi-eyes, hundreds of them, but only on one side of the tent. Fortune again, if they were on both sides, perforated feet. The mattress appears ok, next night I blew extra air into it, and next morning it was still there, and I slept well too. Anyway, back onto the road, and headed for Ouyen along the Sunraysia Hwy, another great day for cruising. Yes, I skipped Mildura, mainly because it was one day before Easter and traffic was building up. On the way to Ouyen, most of the traffic was heading in the opposite direction. (that was fortunate).

Good Friday - day 36 - "another great day for cruising" (copy & paste). The days seem to be getting better, sunny, light breeze, not hot but not cold. Still heaps of traffic going in the opposite direction, probably heading for the Murray River. A stick-up, I thought bushrangers had died out, Woomelang(23) is the place, and here they do it with a difference, they give not take. They gave me the opportunity to donate to the Good Friday Appeal, gave me a coffee and the chance to chat about the trike. Good people (hi Pat) at Woomelang. Birchip(24) coming up, don't expect anything to be open, into the c/park and it looks packed. Hang gliders everywhere, not in the air , in the caravan park, their annual championships are held in this area. Another entertaining afternoon and evening, Fortunately for me, the office at the park sells take aways, fish & chips tonight.

St Arnaud(25) was the next stop for the night, arriving early afternoon, a good time to catch up with those little tasks one must perform every now and then, you know, washing, check trike, a shower etc. Only 3 more pages in my diary, it's a small book, small books weigh less than big ones.
Typical of an entry in my diary - 9864 Sun 11-4-04 Stopped next to rail line 3km Ballarat, Dist.128km ave.15.04 weather sunny wind s.w. - pretty good run all day - but felt I was pushing into head/cross all day. Surprised I still felt good when setting up camp - see how I feel tomorrow. set up camp in the dark. Allowed on Fwy. * I know I went thru Avoca(26), but no entry.

The 9864 is the total distance the trike has done (not this trip), the date, distance & average travelled for the day, comments on the weather, how the day was in general - pretty good run all day - means "another great day", 1st time I set up camp so late, in general it is about 4- 4:30pm. Allowed on the freeway to Ballarat using the emergency stopping lane, great. Most freeways bikes aren't allowed.

Ballarat(27) to Queenscliff(29), and I feel great, today it was only "good run all day" instead of a "pretty good run all day". 2 of the steepest hills on the trip, 1 at Buninyong near Ballarat, the other at Batesford near Geelong(28). Early rise tomorrow to catch the 7am ferry.

LAST DAY - day 40
and my first brush with the law

Started out the same as all the others, apart from getting up early, onto the ferry at Queenscliff and off to Sorrento. 8am I'm feeling hungry. Since getting off the ferry, I've been looking for some place that was open with take aways. The only one I could find on the main road was McDonalds, at least they have chocolate shakes, into order, "sorry we don't have shakes this time of the morning", and pointing to the breakfast menu, I could see I didn't have much choice. I finished up getting a cup cake with an egg in it, called a mac muffin, I wanted one of those real burgers you get in the roadhouses, where they are served on a dinner plate with a knife, so you can cut it in half in case it is too large to hold in both hands, or if taking away, they cut it in half before bagging it.
After morning smoko it was on to Dromana, then the freeway to the Mornington turn off, and here it happened. Pedalling along in the emergency lane, the police pulled up in front me and informed me, that bikes are not allowed on freeways and to get off at the next exit. "It's dangerous here, the cars are doing a 100ks and you could get yourself killed." The policeman was right, it is dangerous, cars are doing 100ks and I could be killed, but I still found it very ironic considering the past 40 days. (The entry sign at the time does allow bikes on this freeway).
11:30am a quick visit to Tam & Julian's and to see young Bryce walking, (was close, when I left) in Mt Eliza, onto Frankston and arriving home 1pm.

A Great Trip

Approx cost $2000 includes - air fare to Perth. Much cheaper for the non-smoker who doesn't buy souvenirs.
Things I'd change next time - possilbly tent, sleeping bag and mattress they're bulky - definately cut the handle off my tooth brush to reduce weight.

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