129 Khon Kaen—Bangkok
Sunday 23 January 2005

Yesterday Nathanon dropped me at Khon Kaen airport a few hours before my Air Asia flight. I bought a Bangkok Post to fill in the time. Had not read much when Sam arrived. Was not expecting him. Had not heard from him since he emailled me a New Year card. Sam teaches French at MSU and had a desk near mine, back in 2003. He was on his way to a friend's wedding. So I had company before and during the flight. Otherwise the flight was pleasant and uneventful.

When I compare Air Asia with the higher-priced airlines, one of the noticable differences is that they have free seating. I consider this a plus. It saves time and the hassles of pushing past others in the aisle to get to your seat.

I was a bit concerned about my bag because the zips were busting. Had visions of my underwear and toiletries spread around the Air Asia hold. This is a daypack I bought in Melaka; not a cheap one. It is branded Pierre Cardin and with the price I paid, I assumed it was genuine. However the quality has not lived up to the price. In Khon Kaen I was looking around Fairy Plaza for some straps to wrap around it. Instead, I found a shop with what I hope are decent backpacks. I bought one that is 40+10 litres. Bigger than a daypack but small enough to keep me to my commitment to travel light, thereby saving my back. Apart from what I trust is good quality, I chose it for the comfortable back support. This one has a 'lifetime warranty' whatever that means. The brand is 'deuter' but in this region you can never be sure if it is the real thing.

Ead and Tong picked me up from Bangkok airport. We met our other friends and had dinner at a Japanese restaurant. It came to $A12 each which seems really expensive to a boy from Mahasarkaham.

I have been talking to people and looking on the internet for information about getting to Cambodia. A visa is not needed, at least not in advance. It seems that taking a bus can be a bit of a horror trip. I am therefore thinking seriously about flying, which is expensive as there is only one airline that does it. Will cost me over $A200 with departure tax. Seems a lot for such a short distance but I feel I would rather fork out the $s than endure a possible 14 hours on a bus.

128 Dangerous?
Tuesday 18 January 2005

Tonight I will be having dinner with my friend Petra. Perhaps we will go to the all-you-can-eat-cook-it-yourself barbecue as usual. This is a trend here in Thailand that is extremely popular. You go with a group of your friends and sit at a table. A clay pot, about 30 cm or so diameter, full of hot charcoal, is placed in the middle of the table. A domed metal lid is placed on top of the pot. This lid has holes and grooves. Around the perimeter is, lets say, a moat into which water is poured. You take a bowl to the food table and fill it with raw meats of your choice. You can also choose chopped tofu. Salads, vegetables, noodles and sauces are also provided.

Back at your table you first stick a lump of pork fat on the top of the dome. As it melts it greases the rest of the dome. You place your meat on the grooves and cook it yourself. Noodles and vegetables can be placed in the water-filled moat. You pig out until you can't eat any more and then you pay somewhere between 50 and 100 baht, ie usually less than $A3 per person, plus drinks.

I wondered if this was a local trend or if it existed worldwide. Somehow I could not see it happening in the West. I described it to my son, David, who is a chef. He started to point out all the workplace health and safety issues that would make it extremely difficult. I also pointed out the hygiene issues. We came to the conclusion that the only way Australians and other Westerners are going to enjoy this trend is to come here to Thailand.

Issues such as these are part of what makes life in Asia so much different from the West despite modernisation. In the West we are protected by rules, regulations, laws and the fear of being sued. Public liability insurance was one of the issues that helped me to not feel sorry about giving up my storytelling career.

There are different challenges here. Footpaths, where they exist, can be rough if not dangerous, or blocked with vendors' merchandise. Often it is safer to walk on the road among the traffic. Often you have no other choice. Duty of care is non-existent here. You take responsibility for yourself and you must take care in everything you do.

When I say this, I mean that no one is required to take responsibility for you. However Thai people are warm and friendly and they have their ways of looking after their farang friends who might not be aware of potential dangers. I never get the feeling that life here is actually dangerous—just different.

127 FZ20 and low light
Monday 17 January 2005

The camera that I had decided I wanted to buy is the Panasonic FZ20. As I wrote earlier I was attracted to it, or at least its predecessor, because of the powerful zoom lens. But I want a camera that does more than just take pictures of distant subjects. I want a camera that enables me to take good photos in many situations.

One of the shortcomings of the FZ20 is said to be its inability to take good shots in low-light situations. But just how bad is it? It seems that the other digital cameras on the market with long zooms have similar problems. When I compared the FZ20 with these other cameras, based on criteria relating to my needs, it comes out way in front. Even if the others take perfect night shots and the FZ20 takes duds, I would still want the FZ20.

On the forums they say to buy your camera from a shop that allows you to return it if it doesn't suit your needs. It is fine for them to say that in America or wherever. That option may not be available in north-east Thailand. I decided the FZ20 was the one I wanted but I still wanted to know how bad the low-light pictures were.

On my favourite forum, owners of the FZ20 often show off their photos and they are quite impressive—the sort of photos I would want to take. But not many night shots. So I started a forum where I challenged the members to display their low-light photos, good or bad. I'm impressed with the results. Perhaps you'd like to take a look too.

126 New camera? Not yet.
Sunday 16 January 2005

Rather than the label of photographer, I consider myself to be a visual artist who got lazy. Back in the days when I used paint and canvas my objective was never to create a beautiful picture. There are plenty of people around doing that. They produce hundreds of versions of the same picture. My objective was to learn. I would approach every picture with a question like 'If I do this, what will happen?' It never concerned me when people didn't understand or like my paintings. I didn't need their approval. That was never what I painted for. I would like to think that I approach photography with the same attitude.

I believe the most important photographic accessory is the eye behind the viewfinder. Some years back, in the pre-digital era I was in a camera shop where I had recently bought a camera. Sorry, I can't remember the make. I don't have it now. It was stolen. But it was a common-brand 35 mm compact. In those days the shops sent film out for processing. While I was there a batch of pics came in. The assistant took a quick look through the delivery. He got excited, 'Oh, here are the first shots that so&so did with his new Nikon.' I couldn't afford a Nikon but I was interested in seeing just what such a camera could do. It was terribly disappointing. They were snaps that could have been taken just as easily with any cheap camera.

My present camera is a Kodak DC265 that I have owned for five years and is starting to get a bit wonky. About a year ago I was browsing around the shops of Singapore and was impressed by the long zoom of a Panasonic FZ10. I like taking candid shots. Many Asian people love to pose. I figured such a camera would enable me to get some distance from my subjects. The guy in the shop was really keen to sell it to me but I wasn't convinced. I began reading, trying to figure if this is the best camera for my many purposes. Since then the FZ20 has come out. After much research on the internet, I finally decided to buy one. I made that decision on Friday last week.

On Saturday came the news that Panasonic is going to announce some new models next month for release in the not too distant future. So, once again, I will put off buying my camera. Would like to see what the new offerings are first. Looks like my visit to Angkor Wat in two weeks will be done with the Kodak.

125 Travel plans
Friday 14 January 2005

My stay here in Thailand comes in three month cycles because three months is the length of a tourist visa, ie two months plus a one month extension. My current three months expires on January 30.

Before that I plan to spend a week in Bangkok. I have booked my plane flight for next Saturday. I was going to get a sleeper on the overnight train but with cheap air fares I can fly for only a little more. Saves me a lot of time.

Before I left Australia I had a group of Thai friends who I mixed with in Brisbane. We got together for a regular language exchange plus the usual sorts of activities that friends do together. My friends were all doing post-graduate studies in Brisbane. Most of them returned here a long time ago. The last, Joy, returned with her PhD in pharmacy just recently. It has therefore been decided that we should have a reunion which has been scheduled for next Saturday evening.

That will then give me a week to spend in Bangkok organising my trip to Cambodia, which is my next destination. First I have to apply for a visa and look into the transport options. I also plan to drop my computer into Apple as somehow I have just a little sticky stuff inside the CD drive slot. I am also getting very serious now about buying my next camera.

I really do not know how long I will spend in Cambodia. My first stop will be Siem Reap which will be my base from which to explore Angkor. I am not sure how I will find this. If I have a new camera I might find it quite inspiring. It is possible that I could spend two weeks (or until my camera runs out of memory) just taking photos. On the other hand, if the place is overrun with tourists, I might leave within a day or two.

Probably the next stop after Siem Reap, unless I get any better ideas, will be the capital, Phnom Penh. It is here that I will need to apply for my new visa to Thailand. I won't do that until I feel almost ready to return and I really don't know how long it will be before that will happen. It is of course possible that I won't want to come back.

I have no idea what options there will be for communication with the outside world. I won't be taking my computer with me but will rely on whatever is available in the way of internet access. Almost two years ago I made my first visit to Laos. Internet access there at that time was very slow. When I returned just a few months back they had high-speed access as good as I get here in Mahasarakham (or perhaps better). But I really do not know if Cambodia is behind or ahead of Laos.

If I can get good regular internet access I will do my best to answer any emails sent to me. I will not be updating my website before I return because, as I may have mentioned, I am not taking my computer. However for anyone who is really keen to follow my adventures, I will do my best to place my blog on another site. Just check this address.

I have finally organised a small group to do Thai lessons together here in Mahasarakham. I get in one lesson before I go off travelling. Such is life. Hopefully they will still be going when I return and hopefully they won't be too far ahead of me.

124 Look a farang
Thursday 13 January 2005

There must be at least ten farang living in Mahasarakham at the moment but still we seem to be something of a novelty.

As I walk or ride my bicycle down the street heads turn and occasionally I hear someone say to their friend 'farang'.

Sometimes I wish I knew enough Thai to be able to say to them, 'That's very observant of you.'

But I understand. It's as if a kangaroo were to hop down an Australian suburban street. Sure we've all seen a kangaroo before but because we're not expecting it, we turn our heads and say to our friend, 'Look a kangaroo.'

I thought perhaps the equivalent here would be an elephant walking down the street. But not so. Recently I was having dinner with two Thai friends on the balcony of Medsai. Someone walked by, right outside, with a small elephant. I watched my friends to see how they reacted. I'm sure they saw the elephant but neither turned their head the slightest. It meant nothing to them.

But a farang...

123 Learning to be calm
Wednesday 12 January 2005

Thai people tend to have a different style of driving from the way we Westerners drive. It is quite common for a student on a motorcycle to pull out from the curb or a side street without checking for oncoming vehicles or bicycles. The person on the oncoming bicycle is often me. This is a very good exercise for me in learning to be calm and accept what I can't change. I have an urge to yell out 'Why don't you look where you're going, you stupid ****ing idiot!' But that would be totally useless because they would be unlikely to understand me. Until I learn to say that in Thai, all I can do is to say to myself 'Mai pen lai' and simply accept that this is the way things are.

122 Can something good come from this?
Monday 10 January 2005

Have been thinking about the tragedy here in Asia and its implications for humanity. My first thoughts were that we are nothing. As I watch film of people being swept away by the waves I think we are just like ants who can be hosed off a driveway. We each get so carried away with the importance of whatever it is we are doing with our lives. But the reality is that in the total scheme of things we are nothing and in the long term nothing we do really matters. Everything humanity has created could be wiped out completely by some future cataclysmic disaster.

On the other hand, I do not believe anything is ever all good or all bad. And what I am seeing as I watch the news each night is people coming together to help each other. We live in a world where selfishness rules. Until recently the news each day was filled with people killing each other basically for reasons of their own selfishness of one sort or another. Now we are seeing news of people working together to try to help the needy. Is it too much to hope that out of this disaster humanity can start to learn to live together unselfishly and in peace?

121 Buying a camera
Thursday 30 December 2004

In case you are wondering what it is like to buy a camera in upcountry Thailand...

I have been doing a lot of research on the internet to find a suitable replacement for my five year old Kodak DC265 which has served me well and is the tool that was used to create most of the photos you see on this site. At the moment my short list includes two cameras: the Panasonic FZ20 which is listed at a price of US$599 and the newly released Nikon Coolpix 8800 at US$999. If you think these cameras are expensive; while my DC265 is very basic by the standards of today's digital cameras, back when I bought it, it cost more than either of these cameras do today.

I am living in Mahasarakham, which is about 60 k from Khon Kaen, quite a large provincial city. I have to reach KK by public transport. To put it briefly, to get from my home to the camera shop takes two to two and a half hours. So, this is virtually an all day expedition. This week I was obliged to take a trip further north to renew my visa, so I took the opportunity to check out the camera shops of KK on the way back.

Nathanon had recommended a chain that also sold through the internet. Mangpor came along as my guide and translator. This was quite a small shop with a limited range of popular cameras and very few accessories. They had a Panasonic FZ20 which they would allow me to handle but would not put a battery in it. My friend asked if they had a returns policy. They said yes. You could return the camera up to a month from the purchase date. There was no refund but the amount would be credited towards the purchase of another camera—but only one from the same manufacturer. I liked the feel of the camera but they did not have a Nikon 8800 for me to compare it with, nor had they heard of it. Their price for the FZ20 was 24,000 baht, about $US614.

We found another camera shop downstairs in the same mall. It had a better range of accessories. They had a Nikon 8700 but no 8800. They suggested it had not been released in Thailand. The price of the 8700 was 38,800 baht, $US993.28.

Later we went to another mall with a bias to technology shops including many selling pirate software and DVDs. There was another branch of the first shop we went to. They had more accessories but no FZ20. He said it was a hot seller that they couldn't keep in stock. They had the Nikon 8700 on their price list at 34,000 baht but none in stock. He agreed that the Nikon 8800 had not been released in Thailand and said I was wrong when I said it had a stabilized lens. (It has but Nikon call it something else.)

Mangpor then remembered another camera shop. It had a fairly good range of accessories and both the Nikon 8700 and 8800. The 8700 was 38,800 baht. The 8800 was 45,000 baht, $US1,152.

They were very helpful and put a battery in the camera so that I could take a few shots. I preferred the feel of the Panasonic in my hands. I also found that there was a too much to learn to give it any real tests in the shop. But at least I did get to have a good look at it and see what the zoom could do. I checked the warranty and it said it only applied in the country in which the camera was purchased. So, if I take a trip elsewhere in the region and take that camera with me and it goes kaput, I would have to return to Thailand before I could have it repaired.

I expect to be in Bangkok in about three or four weeks. In the meantime I will be hunting through the online forums trying to learn a bit more so that I spend my money wisely.


120 Why blog?
Tuesday 28 December 2004

Recently a friend asked me what a blog is. I was amazed. I thought there was no one on the planet who did not know that. So, for the uninformed, here is John's explanation of blogging.

'Blog' is short for 'weblog'. It is basically an online journal. This has become quite a craze over recent years with the availability of cheap or perhaps free (sponsored) webspace.

People just write and upload it to the net for anyone to read. People use them for all different reasons. eg, My friend Sarah who I met in Melaka is travelling 'until the money runs out'. Like me she has very flexible plans. Unlike me, she does not write emails often. But if anyone wants to know where she is or what she is doing they can check her blog. A few years ago a guy started writing a blog about life in Baghdad. It became very popular and was eventually published as a book.

There are whole websites where you can read other peoples ravings. Try www.tblog.com as an example. Some people must have very little to do with their time because apparently there are more blog readers than there are blog writers. Popular bloggers build up quite a following. Personally, I think that 99% of them are online wankers. The reason I started mine was that people kept saying to me 'I hope you are keeping a diary of your adventures.' I wasn't. However, I could not see the point of writing stuff that would never be read. So, I added the blog page to my website.

I don't feel a commitment to write on a regular basis. Until now there were only two entries for December. But sometimes it is almost daily. Perhaps the more often I write is actually an indication of nothing happening in my life. I have said before that I would rather be living life than writing about it. Many of my blogs start off as emails that I decide could be edited into something that others might find interesting. Not sure who reads my blog but I do get comments about it from time to time.

119 Safe
Monday 27 December 2004

In case you are wondering, I am in Mahasarakham, which is a long way inland and safe from the effects of the tidal wave.

118 Gone two years
Tuesday 21 December 2004

It is now two years since I left Australia and as things stand I have no plans to return for a visit or otherwise, certainly in the near future. I miss not seeing my grandchildren growing up but lets face it, they are scattered around the country. I would have to do a lot of travelling to keep up with them even if I was in Australia. Hopefully, they will be brought or sent to visit me sooner or later.

When I look back on my life I can think of times when I have been happier. However, happiness is impermanent. My life in the past was more highs and more lows. I think however that it would be right to say that I am more at peace with myself now than I have been at any time in my life. My only real concern is that I might one day have to leave and there is nothing I can do about that. I simply accept that is the way it is and will face that if and when it happens. For the moment, this is where I want to be. People here are surprised when I tell them I have no plans to return to Australia. The assume that life must be better in the West. But sadly, for all we have in Australia, I don't think people are any happier.

© copyright John Shield 2003 - 2005

To read this in the order it was written, scroll to the bottom and work your way up.

April 2004, includes: My first trip to KL; Passport; New computer; Karma.

May 2004, includes: Getting it all together; Across the street culture; It's happened again; Writing process; Sincerity; Boring; Why?; Bag snatchers; Cross-cultural communications; Listening without projections; Malaysian or what?; Definitely Malaysian; Battling Bunga Raya; Free food.

June 2004, includes: A democratic proposal; Towards a mail-forwarding etiquette; The smell of durian; Almost free food; Charity fair; Fighting evil; Attempted robbery; Smokers; Cyber cafes; Tropical fruit-lovers paradise; Consumer society; Another snatch-theft death; Passport application—again; Why I prefer squat toilets; If I had a mothball in this hand; Troubles in southern Thailand; Ninety-one today; Going back; Stopping the snatchers; Karma and choice; Hazy skies; Formula for happiness; Where to next?; Trishaw respect; Desire for union; My new grandson.

July 2004, includes: No water; Malaysian society & politics; Buying a camera; KL scam; Attachments; Garage Band; Grandchildren; Moves; Farewell Tzu Chi; Travelling: Melaka - Penang; Women in black; Bureaucracies: I can cope; Giving with no expectations; Back in Thailand; Making merit.

August 2004, includes: Back to Mahasarakham; Independence; Passing time; Observations from the omelette shop; Pad Pak; Procession; Storm; Famine?

September 2004, includes: Street vendors; The omelette shop; Shopping in Sri-sawas; Restaurants; Off to Udon; In Udon; Toad soup; Buying speakers; Sweet talk; The price of happiness; The right to vote.

October 2004, includes: The real issue; Who are the real Australians?; The Best?; Out of Thailand; Instant Millionaire; Nong Khai to Vientiane; National Library of Laos; Social security in Laos; Please help me!; Lao delicacy; Everyone wants a sponsor; Vientiane markets; Of girls and bombs; Pronunciation of names; Being dead; Renting a bicycle; Losing and gaining customers; Making plans again; Bun Nam Festival; Party's over.

November 2004, includes: Visa applicataon; Lao Tradition show; At the bus station; I didn't make it; Tips for travellers to Vientiane; Visit to an Isaan village; Crickets and grasshoppers; Don't eat cockroaches; Village of the Red Waterholes; Thai winter; All Asians look alike?