Patchwork, is the piecing together of various small shapes of fabric to make one large piece. Quilting is the stitching that binds the layers of patchwork, padding and backing fabric together. This craft has been noted in history since very early times. It was firstly a craft generated by necessity and practical reasons, but as it made its way down histories trail it became a popular pastime that anyone could do.

A few very old examples of patchwork have been discovered. A quilted funeral tent canopy was found in the tomb of Queen Esi-mem-kev of Egypt, who lived about 980 BC. In 1903 a carved ivory figure of a Pharoah from the Egyptian First Dynasty c3400 BC was discovered. The Pharoah is wearing what seems to be a quilted mantle. Another piece is a carpet found on the floor of a tomb. This was believed to have been made during the first century BC. The pattern of this carpet is similar to patterns still in use today.

The next recordings of patchwork are from the early Middle Ages. During this time two heavy outer fabrics, quilted with layers of soft padding between them were warn as body armour by the armies of William the Conqueror and the Crusaders. These patchwork body armours served not only as armours, but gave soldiers warmth and protected the soldiers from chafing. The patchwork armours the soldiers wore were for practical use only, so they were simply stitched together with strong thread in straight lines.

It is believed that this quilted armour inspired the making and use of quilted bed covers (McCalls (eds) 1982). Quilted bed covers became frequently mentioned in household inventories and accounts of the 11th, 12th and 13th centuries.

In the 14th century there was a major change in the climate of Western Europe. The winters became extremely cold and bitter. This climate change made the quilted bed cover a necessity. People used anything they could lay their hands on to fill the patchwork covers, such as moss, feathers, lambs wool and even grass - they were desperate for warmth.

In Southern Europe the winters were not as harsh and patchwork and quilting became a decorative way of dressing yourself, your bed and your household. The practical pieces such as bed covers became beautiful to look at as well as useful items.

In Britain and Holland, patchwork and quilting became a business (not unlike our cottage industry). The quilting on bed covers became intricate and the "bed furniture" became a most prized possession to be handed down through generations. Quilts became important family pieces and young girls would learn to patch and quilt at an early age so they could begin a dowry. When a girl became engaged she would start her Bridal Quilt. This quilt would be the most elaborate in her dowry, and the bride to be would have friends and relatives to help her finish it.

The tradition of quilt making was taken to America by the Pilgrims. They took at least one piece of "bed furniture" with them in their meagre luggage. The pilgrims had a hard time in America with the harsh climates and poor land conditions. As things wore out there was no money to replace them, so everything was repaired and reused. "Bed furniture" was no exception, the quilts were patched over and over and these quilts became the basis for the inventive patchwork patterns of the 18 ^th and 19 ^th centuries.

Quilting and patchwork became an essential thrift craft and was established as part of the domestic and social life of the time. The patchwork was not only used as bed furniture but for tents, mattresses, flooring, crop protectors and clothing. The women of the time had a hard life so held quilting bees as a way to "enjoy a productive break from their considerable chores" (Chainey, 1977).

With the population growing quickly, America began to prosper. Shipping routes between Europe, America and the Orient opened up and imported fabrics became available. There was now a wide selection of fabrics to be had and patchwork became an art.

The popularity of patchwork grew until World War I broke out. It was at this time good quality manufactured items became more readily available and people seemed to opt for ready made eiderdowns rather than handmade quilts (Chainey, 1977). As women began to enter the work force filling the positions left vacant by the men who went to war, there simply was not enough time to do such things as patchwork.

During the war years less time was devoted to patchwork and it became a concern that the skills associated with patchwork would die. In England, the Rural Industries Bureau wanted to ensure the ongoing tradition of patchwork and decided to commission same works by skilled patchworkers. The Bureau also encouraged them to pass on their skills to others.

It was in the early 19^th century that patchwork was brought to Australia by the British. Elizabeth Fry (1780 - 1845) was a British prison reformer who insisted that prisoners needed help rather than punishment in order to become good citizens. She did a lot of work for female prisoners in London and when she became aware of the prisoners’ conditions aboard convict ships headed to Botany Bay she decided to help there too. She was a strong believer in "the habit of industry" (Rolfe, 1987).

In 1818 she brought about the reforms on a ship called Maria (these reforms were similar to what she had instigated in London). On board ship the women would be divided into groups of twelve, these groups were provided with patchwork materials as well as some other knitting and sewing requirements. At the time there was a market for patchwork in New South Wales so that what was made during the journey could be sold on arrival, providing the women with a little money and some dignity.

Elizabeth Fry continued to visit and help organise the women on the ships leaving for Australia until 1841. In 1827 Elizabeth Fry wrote:

Quilting and patchwork nearly faded out until the late 1960’s to early 1970’s when there was a surge of interest. This interest was brought about by the American Bicentennial Celebrations. The organisers of the celebrations decided since patchwork was part of American history they would hold a patchwork competition. This competition renewed old interest and sparked the interest of a new generation.

The history of patchwork goes back many years and spans the globe. It has a history built on necessity and thrift. Patchwork today is considered a creative pastime and at certain times in our history would have been regarded likewise, but generally it was done for a need. That need might have been warmth, thrift or even more intangibles such as socialisation and dignity.