Since day one, I have hated those black plastic tubes for the wiring and decided to route the control wires through the handlebars instead.
I am not the first to do this so let’s give credit where it’s due (applause is necessary!):
Thank you all
CAVEATS:
I did a search for the stock color wires so I could just extend the harnesses but that proved fruitless. Radio Shack and parts houses have about 4 colors which I did not want as it would make it very hard to troubleshoot problems. I found an outfit out in Sonora, CA. called KayJay (http://www.kayjayco.com/) that sold me 10 feet of fourteen distinct colors for $22 shipped (16 gauge). No high currents passed through these wires so they were perfect (you need a minimum of 10 distinct colors if you decide to go with unique colors).
The original plan included de-soldering the wires from the control side and un-pinning them from the connectors in the headlight bucket and re-doing the entire wire end-to-end with longer wires. I decided against it for three reasons. It was going to be a real pain and take a lot longer, de-soldering and re-soldering on the controls could introduce problems, and re-doing the connectors might also. Therefore, adding wire to the existing harnesses seemed to be the right idea.
The first step is to mark the position of the bars and the controls so you can return them to that position (figure 1).
You also need to tape where you will be drilling holes. For the center bars hole, put some masking tape in the center of the bars, get down beside her, hold the pencil over the tape, and line the pencil parallel with the forks and make your mark. Measure 1/2” around the bars and make another mark (roll the bars forward to do this). Mark a line parallel to the bars at the mark you created. The angle of the wire routing will look much better this way.
Figure 1 shows the throttle side with the marks. I know you cannot see the mark for the hole but I put a pencil into the half moon hole in the control where the wire bundle is being removed from and marked it and that’s where I am drilling holes. Note the red arrow showing a fray in my throttle cable. I will be replacing these soon... Do the same to the left side (figure 2 shows throttle control side already detached).
Figure 1 - Mark the position of controls on the bars and bar clamps and where initial wire hole will go.
Figure 2 - Control detached and hanging. White zip-tie holds harness to control
The wiring harnesses travel from the controls into the back of the headlight bucket. Unbolt the controls (if you have not already) and pop the plastic loops out of the bars (you now have holes in your bars! These will have to be plugged, so get some little chrome buttons). Strip the black sheathing from the wires carefully using a pair of diagonal cutters or heavy scissors. Go slow and watch out for the wires! Remove the headlight and unplug each connector block (mark them first) and then pass the control blocks out the back of the headlight bucket.
The throttle side is easy as the wires to the brake light switch are spade connectors and come right off. Now you can work on this sucker on your bench (figure 3). The clutch side has a connector for the clutch switch that is not easy to remove from the control so write down the color code of the two wires and cut them leaving about 10”. You still have to extend these wires so the point is to make them long enough that the splice is inside the bars.
Figure 3 - Throttle side harness. White turn signal connector and wires.
Figure 4 - Sheathing cut and about to remove harnesses from bucket. Turn signals have been relocated.
The next thing is to prepare the bars for wiring and here’s where I screwed up somewhat. I figured I did not need to remove the bars from the bike and I wish I had. I could have done the holes on a drill press and saved myself a lot of time filing. Regardless, mark and drill two 3/8” holes in the centerline you marked earlier on the bars real close to each other and at the center of the bars (see figure 5). Drill a hole in the bar ends where you marked and where the control housings will hide them. Connect the two holes and file and sand and file and sand until the connected holes can pass the tissue test. (Take a piece of tissue and stuff it in the hole and pull it out. If anything snags, keep filing and sanding until it pulls out clean).
Figure 5 - Center holes connected and almost done filing (bars are rolled forward).
Figure 6 - First bar end hole drilled and about to do another next to it (clutch side).
Do not skimp on cleaning up the holes! Make them smooth or you could run into problems later!! You can now bolt the handlebar clamps and metal housing halves (left side – clutch lever housing; right side – master cylinder & housing). You can roll the bars up some but you still want them forward so you can get to the center hole. On to the wiring!
With the harnesses out on the bench, get your soldering iron fired up. I decided to work on the throttle side first as there are less wires. Write down the colors of the stock wires and then decide which colors will match from the wires you bought. Match like colors and for the others, use as close a color as possible. Write these down next to the stock ones! Cut the first stock wire you are going to work on about 14” long (this will ensure the joints would be well into the bars) and strip it 1/4”. Take a 24” (more or less depending on the length of your bars from control to headlight bucket) length of the proper colored new wire and strip it 1/4”. Splay the individual strands of each wire out and then reform them so they are straight again. You are going to interlace the strands of each wire to make the smallest profile you can. Figure 7 shows the left wire splayed out. Flatten them again just before you interlace them. This figure also shows my jig that holds the two wires tight together.
Figure 7 - Left wire splayed
You can either make a jig to hold the wires for soldering out of some stiff copper wire about 6-8” long with alligator clips on each end or buy a holding jig from Radio Shack. The purpose of the jig is to hold the wires tight to each other while you solder. Interlace the strands and work the joint with your fingers so it is as round and small as possible and solder the wires together. Figure 8 shows the wires interlaced and ready for the solder. Note the connection is round and the individual wires are tight to each other. This will give you the best solder joint, mechanically and electrically.
Figure 8 - Wires interlaced ready for solder
Figure 9 shows two wires soldered. Note that the connection is not much bigger than the insulated wire itself.
Figure 9 - Wires interlaced and soldered.
Start on the other wires and be sure to stagger the joints about 1”. Use heat shrink on all joints. You will end up with something close to figure 10. Complete the wires in both harnesses.
On the clutch side there are three differences. The first is two orange wire crimped to a single orange wire about 6” down the stock bundle that provides voltage to either side of the turn signal switch. Instead of running two wires, I decided to recreate this joint very close to the control and use one orange wire in the bars. The second is the way the turn signal wires are connected. They are also crimped onto existing wires. I cut them at the crimp as I would be relocating the signals to the forks. The last is that you have to solder the clutch switch wires and you will have to do this while they are attached to the bike. Here’s where the simple copper wire/alligator clip jig comes in handy as it is light and won’t strain anything.
Figure 10 - Wires soldered in a stagger pattern and heat shrink installed.
You should now have two harnesses with plenty of wire to get through the bars and into the headlight bucket (figure 11). Heat shrinking the bundle will not add any value but you can add a small piece (6”) to the end by the control unit itself. Now let’s get them in the bars!
Figure 11 - Throttle side upper section done. Black and gray wires are for brake switch.
It is easy to get the throttle side through the bars as there are so few wires. Cut the trailing ends of the wires in a stagger pattern and tape them into one bundle. Staggering will give you the smallest profile and make it easier to get through. Go ahead and mark the end of the bundle for identification. Slide the bundle into the hole and continue to feed until you see the end at the center bar hole. Use a pair of needle-nosed pliers to extract the bundle and continue to feed until you have about 2 inches between the hole and the control as in figure 12. Note the heat shrink on this end of the wires. Call this added insurance in case there are any burrs left on the hole. Now would be a good time to seal the hole. I used clear silicone.
This side is done and you can re-install the control and re-attach the brake switch wires!!
Figure 12 - Throttle side done. Note heat shrink, brake switch wires and spade connectors
To get the wires on the clutch side through requires a little more finesse. There are more wires and therefore a thicker bundle. Get a length of strong (30-50 # test) monofilament and fish it through the bar from either the center hole up or the top hole down (see figure 13). Stagger the wires again for the smallest profile, tape and mark them, and incorporate the monofilament so that it will not pull out. Use a lubricant that will dissipate (like Dawn dish soap) and lube the bundle. Pull on the monofilament from the center hole as you feed the bundle from the top. Work it all the way though and again leave about 2” between the hole and control. Keep the bundles from each control separated especially if you had to use some of the same color wires on both sides. Seal it and button it up, you are done up here!!
Figure 13 - Throttle wires routed, monofilament fish 'wire'
Now we are going to tackle the connector ends!
I opted to cover all the wires with braided stainless steel sheathing. Pep Boys has a kit that people use to cover their hoses and such. It comes with several sizes and plenty to work with for $20. Cheap enough for a good look. Use the second to smallest size if you go this route. If you do decide to do this, it must be installed now. Cut a length of the braiding about 12-14” long and thread both bundles through it. You will be able to trim it later. Push it all the way up and stuff the raw end into the hole. Put a tie wrap on it at this point so it won’t slip. Dressing this end is a matter of preference so do what you think will be aesthetically pleasing to you. I used a sharpened (not real sharp!) wooden stick to poke the braid up into the hole and then sealed it with silicone. Whatever you do, seal the hole! From the other end of the braid, keep pushing the braid up and tape it off so it is out of the way for now (see figure 14).
Figure 14 - Wire bundles separated with initial SS braid position
Now would be a good time to get out your trusty multi-meter and check the wiring so far. Set the meter to ohms and connect one lead to ground and check every wire for shorts to ground. I connected mine right to the handlebars as that was the likeliest spot to short to. Everything OK and no shorts? Start working on either block. I started on the throttle side as it had fewer wires. Also, after staring at it for a bit, I decided to remove the headlight bucket completely to make the work easier (figure 14 also shows this).
Refer to your color code chart and match the colors. Ah..., you did write them down, I hope? Use the same methods as above to get these wires soldered together. You do not have to stagger the joints here as room is not an issue. Slip a piece of heat shrink on one side of each wire before soldering or you will have to de-solder the joint and do it again! I have no idea why this came to mind. I have never done this.
Figure 15 shows about half the connector block’s wires done. The red arrow points to where I connected in the pigtails for the turn signals. Now get the rest of the wires done. Here’s where a stool helps!
Figure 15 - One connector almost done and turn signal wires attached
You do not need to install the headlight bucket to test everything. Connect the battery back up, plug the connectors back in, plug in the headlamp (support it with something), and turn on the key. Got lights on the dash? Headlight? High beam? Do all of the switches work? Does she start? Try everything!!! If it all works, go have several beers!! You’ve earned it!
Remove the tape from the SS braid and work this down as far as it will go. If it’s too long, use some heavy duty scissors to trim. Put a rag underneath and catch every strand!! The object is to get the end to disappear inside the headlight bucket. Once you have it down as far as it will go cleanly, install a zip tie about 3/4” up from the end and tighten it down. Fold the protruding braid back against to zip tie and wrap this with black electrical tape. This makes a nice clean end. See Figure 16.
Figure 16 - Both connector blocks done and SS braid dressed
Hold the headlight bucket up close to its normal position and shove everything back inside and loosely bolt the bucket back on. Try everything again and make sure it all still works. Complete the headlight installation and again check everything. If it all works, go for a ride!!!
Figure 17 shows what it should look like just prior to installing the headlamp.
Figure 17 - Ready to button up
Figure 18 - What your bars should look like now
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