Here's the info on the lights and bar, and notes on the installation. Have a beer (or two) as this is really long and I don't want to leave anything out. I also cannot take credit for the idea of using these. I believe member Hank was the first to take the plunge.

The part # for the bar is 01ZX1176W and the lights (5" - 55W) are 88ZX8602P. Use the link below and plug these numbers in the search box. You only need the one bar and the two lights as everything is included. http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/StoreCatalogDisplay?storeId=10101&langId=-1&catalogId=10111

Installation :
The mounting plate welded on the bar is slightly off-center (others have reported the same).  Do not measure end to end on the mounting plate to find center (what I did, more on this), measure end to end on the entire bar and center that on the upper fork mount. I used masking tape on the bar and the upper fork mount, measured, and aligned both to get the center point.

You will have to ream/enlarge the mounting plate holes (straight out towards the ends) as the centers of the mounting plate holes are closer together than the holes in the upper fork mount. Get it lined up and mark the plate underneath with a permanent marking pen. No big deal to ream this with a Dremel and a straight routing/cutting bit (regular steel bits will overheat and destroy itself, even using cutting oil. I used up two old ones I had and have since replaced them with a carbide one). There are other methods to accomplish this (as in, a drill press), although the Dremel gave me finer control. I ground, checked, ground.... until it fit.

What really sucks is that I had marked center on the mount plate (instead of the entire bar) and installed it that way. So the light mounting clamps are not aligned the same (the right clamp sticks out past the bar about 3/16" and the left is flush). In other words, the bar itself is shifted to the left (looking at it from riding position). However, as you can see from the pics, the lights are aligned on the bike and that was the most important thing for me. Still pisses me off, so I think I am going to replace the bar itself and re-ream it properly. I can afford a $20 mistake <GRIN>. Note in the latest pic that I have a couple of rubber pieces (about 1/16" thick) to protect between the lights.

You will also have to ream out the holes in the P-clamps that come with the bar as the bolts on the lights are substantially larger. Plenty of room on these P-clamps to accommodate this change (a drill press would help). The P-clamps come with Allen head set screws so that once you have them adjusted, you tighten them down and they should stay. I removed them while messing with the whole thing and dropped one on the garage floor right there in front of me. I looked at it and said "I need to pick that up", promptly forgot about it and within minutes, kicked it into oblivion (I have still not found it). Went to ACE and replaced it...

After mounting the bar, I found that taking apart the lights (extremely simple) so I had just the housings and mounting bolts to deal with was the way to go. The P-clamps can go on with the hole to the front or back. If you put them on where the holes are forward of the bar, the lights will be forward of the headlight. I originally installed them this way, didn't like it, and re-installed them with the clamp holes to the rear of the bar. They
now line up darn near perfect with the headlight.

I have been running these lights since February and am mostly happy with them. There are a couple of things I will change. The Allen head set screws are difficult to deal with at best. You have to have a right angle set of Allen wrenches and they are way too close to the light mounts. I plan on drilling and tapping new holes on the bottom of the P-clamps and installing Phillips set screws. This will make adjusting a breeze. This issue may have been mitigated by using smaller lights, but I really like the look I achieved with the 5" lights. I see the bar problem every time I look at the bike. I doubt most people would even notice it. I do and it has to be fixed...

Wiring:
I ran 2 14G wires 'hot' wires (removed the tank to route properly) all the way back up under the seat and spliced into switched 12v (the big green wire on the biggest plug there). This was easy for me as I installed the Freak right after Christmas, so all the wire bundles that are normally under the airbox 'reside' there now. I also installed an inline blade type fuse connector right there (with a 10 amp fuse as I was drawing 8.5 amps). I ran the negative wires from the battery up into the console where I mounted a 10A single throw double pole switch on the left side (removed the rubber piece and reamed to fit the switch) and then continued these wires on to the lights. I like being able to control the lights (I turn them off when shutting her off and turn them on after starting the bike).

Other than the mistake with the bar, I am pretty happy. They held up through a week of being battered with salt air up in Daytona where I saw rust forming on things I didn't think could rust! (NOT the lightbar). They really throw a lot of light where I need it (I adjusted them about 1" above the center line of the low beam). I have also noticed a new 'respect' from cagers. The reduction in pullouts by these idiots is nothing short of astounding. No matter what I do, I will forever have a light bar.

Finally, the lights come with some really cool looking SS (I think) flexible conduit for the wires. They are only about 10" inches long and I have tried to find some more of this stuff because I would like to dress up other stuff and I do not like that plastic split crap like at Pep Boys.

I hope this helps if you decide to go with this system.