JARCAT NEWS

SINCE 1980

JARCAT FIVE - JARCAT SIX – JARCAT SEVEN

CORAL COAST TWENTY FOUR

CORAL COAST TWENTY NINE

CORAL COAST THIRTY S

J282 DINGHY

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NOVEMBER 2000

http//www.ozemail.com.au/~rhturner …… rhturner@ozemail.com.au

 

Most sailors at some stage yearn to sail over-seas. Many sailors do.

I am no exception. I built my CC29 fifteen years ago with the intention of offshore sailing.

A look at the map (a good map) will show the nearest Overseas port to Brisbane to be the French port of Noumea just 750 nautical miles away to the north-east.

Lorraine is a Bay sailor. Last time we sailed north from Brisbane as a family we almost made it to Noosa when we were forced back into Mooloolaba by tiredness. We had all taken sea-sickness pills and could not keep our eyelids apart. Next day Lorraine & the boys were on a bus for Tin Can Bay, Lorraine’s departing words "I’m never sailing on the ocean again."

Imagine my feelings when I overheard Lorraine talking to a friend of hers and saying we were going to sail to Noumea in September.

I had not been out on Coral Coaster for 19 months. It had been lying in the river at the bottom of the yard wollowing in the mud under the mangroves. A bit of a mess would have been an understatement.

First come the hose & detergent and elbow grease. Then I found the rubbing strip to have some rot, that was removed and replaced. I knew the front windows leaked. They were removed & refitted differently. An engine oil change and an air filter fitted. Tighten and or replace the odd bolt here & there. The list seemed to grow rather than shrink.

Eventually the evening had arrived, we moved the final stores aboard and down-river with the ebbing tide we went. I was pleased to find the transoms, as always, only a little underwater. It felt like something was missing.

We pulled into Coochie Mudlo Island where I found a leak in an engine cooling pipe. Not a good start. Ian took me to the mainland in his rubber dinghy. A trip home with the pipe in hand, a quick soldering job and back to Coochie. Rob & Jodie were at the jetty waiting to take me back to Coochie on their J6.

Next day arrived but the wind didn’t. We motored out over South Passage Bar and headed North West. Not far out the motor began losing power and the sails did more work. The motor was stopped and we were on our great adventure.

On that first day we encountered two ships a dolphin and a trawler in that order. By evening we are all feeling sick.

Day two, after a slow night the wind went elsewhere. We removed the sails which were simply flogging. Then we motored for an hour in a two metre swell. Then bled the diesel and tightened all the hose clamps and motored a little longer. By 8pm the wind is back and we are sailing.

Day three. A bird hitched a ride last night, balancing on a lifeline near the bow. On the horizon to our South we saw a Schooner. On the VHF he said he had come from Noumea, five days ago. Lorraine seemed happier now she realised we were not alone.

Day four. The wind rose more last night so it was off with the genoa and put some rolls in the mainsail. The house battery went flat so motored for an hour and later for half an hour until the diesel stopped. Now limited to nav lights & auto-pilot. Lorraine is sick & negative. Not enjoying the conditions. Douglas sleeps but did have breakfast. I am feeling tired but fine.

We slip between Kelso and Capel banks.

After dark the gusts are 25+. Staysail & a couple of rolls in the main to balance the lack of jib until dawn.

Day Five. Jib, staysail & main. Holding up close to the wind. Had a warm shower in the cockpit using the garden pressure sprayer. We all feel better. In the evening we saw Amaroo and Roustabout on their way to Australia. The autopilot will steer 064 but not the required 073 degrees. During the night the wind initially came up then died. We did the usual response to the rising wind by dousing the jib but later we needed the jib and were too tired to replace it.

Day Six. When I came on watch at first light I hand steered to gain speed and a higher course. I tacked to the south for a couple of hours. After breakfast I let the autopilot have the helm as the wind has swung more southerly an we could head almost for Noumea. The seas were a confused 2.5 metres, some much bigger.

Day Seven. During the night we were becalmed between squalls. Later I was hand steering with main & ss & genoa but could not keep the concentration so dropped the genoa & handed over to the autopilot & Lorraine. Later we stopped to empty the anchor locker of a bucket of water and to place the anchor in that locker too instead of the anchor chute off the bow. Motor-sailing with wind 20-30 knots and sharp seas. "Seas are large and wind almost from Noumea". "We are making reasonable headway but VERY rough" Later entry "4 knots into confused 3 metre sea".

The 7pm entry says "Can see a green light far ahead."

Day Eight. Lorraine woke me with her screeches of delight at seeing the hills of New Caledonia at dawn. We motor-sailed tacking upwind along the reef to Dunbea Passage then sailed across to Noumea. Entering Port Moselle with a Yellow Quarantine flag high aloft on the jig halyard and a huge Australian flag flying from the backstay. 1700hrs.

NOUMEA.

Lorraine loved the marina life. We were a short walk to the CBD and local buses. At night the huge car park adjacent the marina became a take-away food mecca. We often purchased our evening meal from one of the vans. Of a morning we would purchase Chocolate Croissants and Sultana Croissants or bread rolls (very sweet). These would need to be eaten that morning or they would be stale. A tasty and inexpensive breakfast.

One morning we tried a "Coffee & Croissant". The locals dip the Croissant into the bowl of hot coffee. (Once was enough)

The "petit train" is a tourist venture. With four little carriages towed behind what seemed to be a converted tractor to look like a steam engine. Painted green with flashy trim. This "train" drove along the roads of Noumea taking tourist to the sights. We took a tour to the Aquarium and Zoo. The Aquarium is rather small and located in a side street. After seeing "Under Water World" at Mooloolabah in Queensland, I guess I was not so impressed. Then we trundled along the roads through the Latin Quarter, Central Business District and climbed steep roads to the Zoo. The Zoo had an array of animals and birds housed in restrictive cages (like an Australian country zoo of thirty years ago) it is atop a big hill. Then we trundled back down and along the waterfront & up to a lookout. Back along the beach to drop off tourists at the big three hotels. Finally the young driver dropped us off right at Port Moselle. We had a great time. The driver ringing the bell so often. Fun. Late in the tour we realised the driver was ringing the bell to all the pretty ladies he saw!!!!

We hired a Renault Twingo car for two days. Lorraine made sure I kept to the right (wrong side?) of the road. This was important when turning out of driveways and one way streets. Also very important after driving for hours on narrow country roads!

I purchased a good road map from a newsagent and off we went. I somehow managed to get onto the only toll road out of Noumea. Even that petered out to a normal 2 lane road after just a few kilometres. We drove North along the West coast, calling at anything which may be of interest. One bay was beautiful, reached only by dirt road. There was a launch ramp but no facilities.

Further up the road we turned right towards the Eastern seaboard which was much more "tropical". According to the map there were plenty of towns.

The road narrowed, then changed to dirt. Many of the Mountains have been mined for nickel. Huge red scars. We saw a super long conveyer belt taking ore from the top of one mountain all the way to a bay where it fell into a ship, another ship was waiting. Nearby there was a small town of "Western" houses and tarred roads.

The ranges over the East side of New Caledonia tend East/West and the only road, North/South. Thus it’s a case of very steep up and very steep down, a narrow valley and up & over again.

Driving North we entered a region of "One hour North, One hour South" road.

Rather narrow dirt with very limited vision and very steep, hairpin bends etc. Unfortunately we entered with half an hour to complete the trip. In retrospect we should have waited. By the change of the hour we still had not completed the section. It was more good fortune than good management that we did not collide with the first group of oncoming 4Wdrives. They were cutting the corner and I couldn’t pull up and allowed us to "slide" to our left & stop. This placed all of us on the wrong side of the road. They kept driving and I drove much more carefully using the lights & horn as a warning that I was coming. An experience.

The "towns" on the map turned out to be tiny villages, often just a convenience store. There were many dilapidated houses, many with tidy grass huts nearby. I have to assume the government tried to assist the Islanders with housing but the Islanders prefer their traditional houses. The "grass huts" are really quite substantial with side walls to about shoulder high in a circle, a pole up the middle holds the roof. Beams radiate from the central pole to the top of the wall with smaller "branches" forming circular support for the thatching. One we went into was about 7 metres across.

Since very few of the "towns" sold petrol I decided to refuel at half a tank. The people were all friendly towards us. Indeed all seemed very happy. We purchased ice-creams and French Sticks and sliced meat. The French Sticks have a harder crust than in Australia.

Half way up the island and we turned back to the West coast. My map showed caves to the North East of Poe. We stayed the night at a beach resort with a sandy beach and about a kilometre to the outer reef. The resorts use yellow markers to separate their own swimming areas.

The caves were along a road running East from the "highway". The road lead up a valley for about 20kms, over a ridge then down into another valley. We measured our distance and there were some dark rock outcrops with huge fissures. No signs but we assume these were the caves. We drove on further until we reached a small tribal town. Very westernised.

Back to Noumea. 770km in two days.

Douglas had made friends with Anna, whose family were emigrating from England to Australia on a 44' English Catamaran.

Anna came aboard for a few days while we sailed around the South to the Bai De Uie.

It blew very hard on our nose, and the wind screamed in the rigging while we were there. The next morning Anna & Douglas sailed the J282 in the Bai. Towards evening we had a go at rowing up a nearby stream but nightfall beat us. Next morning on the high tide we motored the J282 up the stream only to be thwarted by a complete tree fallen right across our path. We never saw the waterfall. The immense beauty of the Tropical foliage was of compensation.

We sailed back past Ilot De Porc. An amazing Island which is round like a porcupine with Pine-like trees with few branches.

On the third of October we had cleared out of New Caledonia.

  • After leaving via Amadee at dusk, we had a good first day with rising wind on a reach. By nightfall we were under staysail & reefed main. By 2100 we were running under bare poles with gusts of 40+ and tired. After much discussion, I set the parachute anchor at about 2200 and we waited. As I had suspected the wind increased and the waves with it. The wind was from the South South East. By lunch time the wind was 40+ with gusts of much more, Worse it had swung more to the south with four metre breaking seas and the occasional big one when the wave trains coincided. The ride to the Para-Anchor was quite acceptable. Some waves would send thick spray right over us but mostly we rode over them with the peaks bursting around us. (Not Southern Ocean stuff but then we are not Southern Ocean sailors)

    After 36 hours I pulled in the para-anchor and we continued back to Brisbane. We did not have a good passage as the wind rose & fell. "A little tropical music, a starry night, low swell & a following breeze. Warm tropical night. This is just enjoyable, a whole new feeling." I wrote in the log. Didn’t last.

    The return trip seemed to drag on, it did.

    Approaching Moreton Island (100 miles off) almost dark. VROOM. Surveillance came over. They then came up on VHF. What is ships name? where from? how many aboard? any animals? where you landing? and the interrogation continues.

    The radio is all talk of a strong wind warning from the south. When we are hit by rain & strong wind from the South we are prepared and act accordingly. After dawn, we should be able to see Moreton Island. Wrong! Quite limited visibility. Breakfast.

    I am on watch when the wind rises rapidly. It is a reach so I try to hold it, we can see Moreton Island but the wind is too much. A call for help and get forward to capture the falling genoa which I've released on the way. Lorraine & Douglas release the staysail. The wind is 40+ and I figure I can reach under the main, it is a calm sea. I should have known better! The wind kept rising, as boat speed reached 17knots steady I decided I’d had enough. (I could hear Lorraine screaming louder than the wind). Rounded up and dropped the mainsail. I left Lorraine in the cockpit, motoring across the growing seas.

    Again I was drenched. We were all drenched. A bite to eat & sleep.

    We called coastguard for information about holding Morton Island close to port as we worked into the bay and after being told of our two foot draft they agreed, that was a much safer route. We stayed off Tangalooma for the night & cleared in at Scarborough the next day. The diesel was no longer working so we were towed into the wind, up the narrow entrance and placed on a berth.

    Our overseas "holiday" had come to its conclusion.

    New Caledonia is FRENCH. Typically French they do not (wish to) speak English. Meat is a rarity and when found it is either akin to leather or stewed.

    Noumea is totally different to the rest of New Caledonia.

    If we went back we would book a six day tour around New Caledonia which stays at quality "hotels". The tour we saw was not overly expensive and included everything.

    #A typical scene on the East Coast

    PARA-ANCHOR.

  • The Coral Coast 29 is a very light-weight cruising catamaran. At 8.6 metres long and 4.8 metres wide I consider it at the lower size for offshore cruising safety. Thus I purchased the Para-anchor before leaving. Lorraine was well aware what the Para-anchor was for and "Freaked" when she saw me about to deploy it. More the representation to a person already distressed that this was the final resource, the liferaft in monohull terms. With the Para-anchor came an instruction book. Earlier in the evening I had been forward and rigged the bridles so they lead back over the starboard bow staunchion, ready for the 80 metre main nylon line of the Para-anchor. Now it was very dark and I knew I had just one chance to set the chute cleanly. I had a reel of nylon line and I needed both ends. The book does skip these minor details! I did not have a helpful crew (too frightened to be of any assistance). The answer was to make up three hanks and lay them on the cabin, behind the dodger. Followed by the chute, 6 metre bouy line, huge fluorescent red bouy, 6 metre floating ski rope and finally the little float. Before going forward to deploy the Para-anchor, I slipped the "Locking loop" off the hanks so the line would be free as it hit the water. I then went forward to tie the bitter end to the bridle. When ready, I called for Lorraine to make a sharp turn to starboard in the next trough. As I felt the cat turn I dumped the bridle over, followed by the three nylon "hanks", the 'chute and bouys.

    I stood on the side deck as the crest went under us. I waited there holding the shrouds tightly. "It did not work, it was a waste of money, weight, time and effort". Finally the bows turned up into the wind. The Para-anchor did work. We sat there for 36 hours during which the steady wind reached better than 40 knots with periods of much more. We could hear the crests rushin towards us and striking at "Coral Coaster" with a bang and whoosh of spray. We felt the nylon line give as Coral Coaster moved back then forward as the nylon line pulled us back. When it was daylight I could see the big fluro bouy every now and again over the wave crest. I looked in the Mariners Handbook to compare the view. This suggested conditions of 55knots plus.

  • RETRIEVAL. I had the help of both my crew. It was daylight. We had rested. We started the motor. I used the anchor winch as a snubbing winch, taking in the line as it went slack following each crest. It was no effort. Douglas had the boat hook. When he was in reach of the ski line & float he picked it up. I pulled in on the ski line to the bouy then the bouy line (Now I had to let some of the nylon line out as the chute would not collapse) to the rear centre of the parachute which was now collapsed and it was all on board. we turned and set sail for Brisbane.