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Theatre of Magic Cabinet Decal Project

Even though this was my first attempt at replacing cabinet decals, the result I achieved was better than expected.

I’ll start by describing how to do the Head box. The front and sides process is pretty much identical. 

Lets get started with listing the tools you probably will need to get the job done.

· Hair Dryer or Heat Gun

· Fine Paint Scraper or good set of finger nails

· Gloss Paint & Brush

· Screw drivers & Spanner set

· Sand Paper & Sanding Block

· Windex or similar

· Squiggy

· Fine Wire and something to use as handles to wrap it around

· Heavy Duty Double Sided Tape or new Side Rails

· Straight Edge & Sharp Blade

· Drop Sheets or similar

· Goof Off or Glue remover

· Masking tape & Tissues

· Builders’ Bog or similar

Use builder bog as directed on the product to repair any major damage like broken corner, large grooves etc.

I would slap it on a little thicker than required and let it cure to the point where I could slice away the residual with a knife. In effect, cleaning up ready for sanding.

I found sanding the Head Box gave me a smooth surface in which I could slide the decal on as well as removing any minor damage, smoothing the repaired areas (bogged up areas) & any residual glue from the decal removal.

Use 150 grade paper for the initial sand, followed by 280 grade or so as a final sand.

Firstly plug up any bolt holes with tissues and masking tape.

Next with the decal still intact, hold up to the head box and line it up to best fit.

Usually there will be ‘cross hairs’ on the decal representing the edges of the head box etc.

Once you have planned or visualized where to position the decal, peel off the backing and spray a fine film of windex on the sticky side.

Also spray windex on the painted head box. This will enable you to apply the decal and momentarily slide it into the required position.

Once in position, lightly press the decal onto the head box surface; hold it in position with one hand and lightly squiggy the excess windex from under the decal.

Don’t press too hard or try to squiggy it dry as you will probably squeeze out the glue as well. Start from one end and progress to the other and continue until the decal is firmly touch the total surface of the head box and there are no Air Bubbles trapped.

 

I used a black Gloss paint to seal the head box.

Not sealing it means that when you apply the decal, the glue will seep into the wood and within no time the decal will simply fall off.

Give the paint substantial time to dry and then lightly sand it to remove any rough spots and brush marks.

Don’t get too fussy on this point, however, the better the job, the better the ‘feel’ of the decal is.

Before we begin, I’ll mention that I basically kept my machine intact for the whole restoration process.

Also place your decals under heavy glass etc for a day or so to flatten them out and stop them from curling when applying.

Remove any bolts and support plates and spray paint/replace if needed.

Apply heat to the decal surface until glue starts to break down and lifting off the decal is quite easy.

Continue with the heat and slowly but surely peal away the decal. Be patient and try to remove the decal in one piece if possible.

Ripping it repeatedly does slow the process down.

 

Getting started

Painting the exposed timber

Applying the decal

Repairing & Sanding the Head Box

Step One: Removal of the old Decal

All that’s left to do now is trim off the excess decal using a sharp blade. I simply maneuvered  the blade using the edge of the head box as a guide, however, a straight edge will give a cleaner look.

I also found holding a light behind the excess decal gave me a good indication on where to trim.

Don’t forget to also cut out the bolt holes and remove the tissues and tape.

Finally, re-install all the head box hardware (bolts, nuts and brackets). And you’re done.

Your machine should start to look all brand new like mine.

Click on the picture to see the final results of the complete machine.

Trimming off the excess decal